has anyone got the new hotrod magazine?
07-16-2011, 02:10 PM
#41
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I stop subscribing to those magazines at least a decade ago. I was tired of reading BS . You have to remember a magazine is there to make money and push their advertisements. Dont believe everything you read . If you want to
build a race engine or street engine i suggest you go to your local machine shop /engine builder.
build a race engine or street engine i suggest you go to your local machine shop /engine builder.
07-16-2011, 02:22 PM
#42
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07-16-2011, 03:15 PM
#44
even if something like that was true, and the dyno was off, if it made even 75% of that power it would still be impressive. i get what your saying though, i would never follow a build they did, i prefer to follow build ups real people have done. the maggie build im doing is one speartech did.
07-16-2011, 03:32 PM
#46
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I stop subscribing to those magazines at least a decade ago. I was tired of reading BS . You have to remember a magazine is there to make money and push their advertisements. Dont believe everything you read . If you want to
build a race engine or street engine i suggest you go to your local machine shop /engine builder.
build a race engine or street engine i suggest you go to your local machine shop /engine builder.
07-16-2011, 03:52 PM
#47
I'm not getting hung up specific numbers and I think people are losing site of the bigger picture here. How many guys crack ring lands making 550-600 horsepower? If you could keep a stock shortblock together making up to 700 hp by simply opening the gap of the top ringland, then that's what I take away from this article.
07-16-2011, 05:06 PM
#48
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Guys are picking the article apart but I don't think the purpose of the article is to say that this is 100% best choice but the article is just broadening the readers horizon to different possibilities. Yes in the search of perfection a forged shortblock would be ideal, but not all guys are going ballz deep with their builds and most guys figure that if they can pay $350-$500 and boost the crap out of it vs. paying $4000 for a forged shortblock, then some figure that they would take the chance of blowing up 11 stock junkyard 4.8's or 5.3's before they achieve the same cost of that forged shortblock that could still blow if the conditions are right... $4000/$350(4.8L/5.3's) And if someone blows up 7-11 engines then you need to step away from the laptop in your car, get a new tuner, lower the boost, or your car is not a DD anymore...lol
Forged does not mean bulletproof.... We have seen some forged pistons take the ******* and melt as well......
Bozz
Last edited by bozzhawg; 07-16-2011 at 05:11 PM.
07-16-2011, 07:03 PM
#51
Here are a few quotes from someone who knows what they are talking about
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...61&postcount=5
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...6&postcount=13
Also look up tirefryin_s10 he had a stock bottom end 6.0 he opened up the ring gaps. He made around 800 rwhp and ran some mid 9's.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...61&postcount=5
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...6&postcount=13
Also look up tirefryin_s10 he had a stock bottom end 6.0 he opened up the ring gaps. He made around 800 rwhp and ran some mid 9's.
07-16-2011, 07:29 PM
#54
I don't think the article ever mentioned any sponsor other than TEA touching up the heads, but the article wasn't about head work. The article was about trying to figure out how tough a GM small block was that you could buy out of a junkyard for less than $1000, do a little labor on it, and put it to the limit.
In the article they even said they had cheap ebay turbos on the motor, so it's not like they were pushing a turbo brand.
Honestly, I bet they thought the motor was going to grenade around 700-800 hp, but they kept trying to push it harder and ultimately ran out of time on the dyno. Is it a be-all end-all failure study, no, but it does show what doing a couple little things can do.
So how expensive would it be to pay someone to regap my top ring to 0.028"?
Any takers? $500-$750?
In the article they even said they had cheap ebay turbos on the motor, so it's not like they were pushing a turbo brand.
Honestly, I bet they thought the motor was going to grenade around 700-800 hp, but they kept trying to push it harder and ultimately ran out of time on the dyno. Is it a be-all end-all failure study, no, but it does show what doing a couple little things can do.
So how expensive would it be to pay someone to regap my top ring to 0.028"?
Any takers? $500-$750?
07-16-2011, 07:52 PM
#55
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what someone charges you just depends on how far you're willing to tear the motor apart yourself.
if you're going to do that though, you need to be prepared for some side effects that you may not like, ie: more blow by, oil burning, smoking, possibly even hurt gas mileage because of the compression loss. its just like a nitrous motor with a loose top ring, its not gonna run like a stock motor when you're out of boost.
you're not looking to make more than 600 at the wheels with the stock bottom, are you?
if you're going to do that though, you need to be prepared for some side effects that you may not like, ie: more blow by, oil burning, smoking, possibly even hurt gas mileage because of the compression loss. its just like a nitrous motor with a loose top ring, its not gonna run like a stock motor when you're out of boost.
you're not looking to make more than 600 at the wheels with the stock bottom, are you?
07-16-2011, 11:45 PM
#56
Well, its going to be a couple months, hopefully before the track closes for the year, but i just bought my 4.8 today, and ripped it apart, and removed everything, im gonna gap the top rings to .028 and see what the hell happens.
I paid 100 bucks for this motor, if it breaks, well it breaks. I could honestly care less. Its going to be a fun experiment. I will 20+ lbs of boost.
I take this article for what it is. Simply put, Ls motors are pretty awesome in stock form and if opening up the top ring gap makes them better for handling some boost, then so be it.
I dont think most people who read this have any pipe dreams of running 1200 hp on a stock shortblock and hoping it holds up. I dont, thats for sure, but it will be fun to push the envelope and see what these are capable of. We have all seen pretty respectable results in lighter cars, and some heavier, Hellbents GTO for example.
Good article, and good read up, we picked it up on our 3 hour drive to retrieve the 4.8, my passengers/helpers read it aloud to me while i was driving.
Some other gread reads in their to boot. Just sayin, what they already did, and most know, with a few small precautions, the LS motors are fun and can be enjoyed at pretty damn respectable power levels for some time.
Lets let them eat, i know i will
I paid 100 bucks for this motor, if it breaks, well it breaks. I could honestly care less. Its going to be a fun experiment. I will 20+ lbs of boost.
I take this article for what it is. Simply put, Ls motors are pretty awesome in stock form and if opening up the top ring gap makes them better for handling some boost, then so be it.
I dont think most people who read this have any pipe dreams of running 1200 hp on a stock shortblock and hoping it holds up. I dont, thats for sure, but it will be fun to push the envelope and see what these are capable of. We have all seen pretty respectable results in lighter cars, and some heavier, Hellbents GTO for example.
Good article, and good read up, we picked it up on our 3 hour drive to retrieve the 4.8, my passengers/helpers read it aloud to me while i was driving.
Some other gread reads in their to boot. Just sayin, what they already did, and most know, with a few small precautions, the LS motors are fun and can be enjoyed at pretty damn respectable power levels for some time.
Lets let them eat, i know i will
07-17-2011, 07:39 AM
#58
what someone charges you just depends on how far you're willing to tear the motor apart yourself.
if you're going to do that though, you need to be prepared for some side effects that you may not like, ie: more blow by, oil burning, smoking, possibly even hurt gas mileage because of the compression loss. its just like a nitrous motor with a loose top ring, its not gonna run like a stock motor when you're out of boost.
you're not looking to make more than 600 at the wheels with the stock bottom, are you?
if you're going to do that though, you need to be prepared for some side effects that you may not like, ie: more blow by, oil burning, smoking, possibly even hurt gas mileage because of the compression loss. its just like a nitrous motor with a loose top ring, its not gonna run like a stock motor when you're out of boost.
you're not looking to make more than 600 at the wheels with the stock bottom, are you?
I understand what you're saying, but whenever you go to a forged piston/rod combo, what do they normally gap the top ring to? Don't they open up the top ring gap? So my point is not to see how far I can push my shortblock to, but rather not have to be paranoid that I'm driving a ticking time bomb.
I've still got the 10-bolt rear, but don't drag race the car. I have my fuel system able to safely make 700rwhp, but at this time, the shortblock is the weak link.
07-17-2011, 10:08 AM
#59
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