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They're here! Motovative N383 Billet Alternator Relocation Brackets

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Old 11-11-2011, 11:51 AM
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just wondering, but why not make the tensioner bracket a bit longer and bot it through a properly sized spacer tube (the thickness of the tensioner bracket) and into the lower tensioner bracket hole and do away with the tentioner all together, since the kit itself is adjustable? is that something that could be done fairly easily or is this going to remain the final product? only reason i ask is i think it would be a cleaner looking install that way. lmk what you think.
Old 11-11-2011, 03:18 PM
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I don't think Jason(N383) intended it to be installed that way.
Old 11-13-2011, 01:54 AM
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Whats the purpose of this ,is the bracket moving the alt. so that a turbo can fit in just below the alternator...thanks,think i gonna need one
Old 11-13-2011, 02:35 AM
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Because the alternator is on the lower driver's side of the engine, which many turbo manifolds interfere with.
Old 11-13-2011, 08:27 AM
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Is anyone actually have theirs on and running the car? Just wondering how it is working and if there are any problems.
Old 11-13-2011, 03:56 PM
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Put over 5k on mine, never once did the belt come off! The reason it's setup like this is so it tucks in real and doesn't stick up high. If you pivot it up higher you will have less fuel rail clearance and room for the pcv line that goes into the side of the intake right there.
Old 11-13-2011, 04:29 PM
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understood but can that have been accomplished with either a longer or slightly curved (matching the rear bracket) piece and eliminate the tensioner? Again, just curious if there will be any revisions like a lot of places come out with or is it a case where it works so why tinker with it? either way it's a nice piece of work!!
Old 11-13-2011, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGBRKR02
Is anyone actually have theirs on and running the car? Just wondering how it is working and if there are any problems.
i actually just got mine running today. After my belt was on for a minute it stretched some and threw itself off. i am running a 77" belt right now (stock crank pulley and i put the tensioner from the stock alt bracket back on). I may step back down to a 76" and bring the alt back down some by going to the second last hole on the bracket(not the bottom as pictured). I know it will work i just need more time to play with it.

Nitroused what length belt are you running? Or do you have a UDP?
Old 11-14-2011, 12:46 AM
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I run a 75" belt with the stock alt bracket idler still in position, but I have a underdrive pulley. The pivot point of the alternator is the bolt that threads into the head. The curved portion of the bracket could be longer to allow it to pivot up higher, but it doesn't really help to tigthen the belt much more at all. After it pivots past a certain point the pulley of the alternator starts to move in closer to the crank pulley and doesn't provide any more tension (actually less). Also when you pivot it up further the power wire becomes less acessable, alteast with the truck alternator I run.



Old 11-14-2011, 09:13 AM
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yeah see the problem im having is that if i run the belt how you have it, how its supposed be run over the stock tensioner, then it hits the thermostat. But if i bring the belt to the other side of the tensioner, it clears the thermostat but now i lose the actual function of the tensioner and have to use the alternator as the tensioner. The problem there is the motion of the alternator is limited by the oil fill hitting the power wire terminal on the alt.
Old 11-14-2011, 04:20 PM
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Getting the correct belt length is critical, make sure it just barely fits on. With the belt I use it's tight without using the tensioner, as in it takes quite a bit of force to pivot the alternator up with the belt on. Try increments of 1/4 or whatever they sell them in. You have to position the tensioner so it clears the thermostat. It really helps to have another hand installing the alternator, put the belt on before you install any of the bolts. I have installed it a few times by myself but it's a lot easier with another hand.
Old 11-14-2011, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
Getting the correct belt length is critical, make sure it just barely fits on. With the belt I use it's tight without using the tensioner, as in it takes quite a bit of force to pivot the alternator up with the belt on. Try increments of 1/4 or whatever they sell them in. You have to position the tensioner so it clears the thermostat. It really helps to have another hand installing the alternator, put the belt on before you install any of the bolts. I have installed it a few times by myself but it's a lot easier with another hand.
Good to know, ill try that next time i make it back home and fill in the details of how it went.
Old 11-26-2011, 01:44 AM
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Thought i would post up that i got it running just fine today. With all STOCK front accessories, including the alt bracket in its stock location, a 76" belt is needed. And when you said that it should barely fit, you werent lying. it took a lot of prying and finesse to get the belt/tensioner lined up just right but it is on and running great. Much easier with 2 hands, you were right on that also.

I will post a vid in my build thread for anyone interested
Old 11-26-2011, 02:34 AM
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Nitroused has proven to me with some help he has given me to be pretty crafty, I got to at least give him that, even though he gives me a hard time sometimes(at least not publicly)
Old 02-20-2014, 07:50 AM
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Bringing this back from the dead, sorry guys....

I am looking at something similar to this for either the FBody or GTO drive setup....Is this still for sale or anyone know of a source to relocate the alternator to the upper passenger side? I need to do this to clear the steering box on an s10.



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