1991 Nissan 240sx T76 LQ4 with T56
12-25-2014, 11:48 PM
#141
I had the exact same cooling issues on my turbo setup with my 2" x 16" x 26" cored Griffin rad using a single 2700cfm 16" fan. With a standard 3" x 12" x 26" intercooler stacked right in front of the rad, the fan just couldn't pull enough air thru it all to cool the engine. From a cold start in decent 15*C weather, it would climb to 200*F just idling, and just putt-putt'ing around it would climb to 220*F quickly. If I dabbled into boosty 4th gear pulls at highway speed it wouldn't drop below 230*F with 130km/h air ramming into the IC & lower part of rad (I have pretty good frontal flow with my grill as well as the holes in the bumper.. much better than a S13). If I dabbled in half-boosty pulls on the street it would climb to 235+*F and I just had to pull over and turn it off with the fan still running.
All this was done just throughout one day.. needless to say it was the only day I had that Griffin rad in the car. I ended up going back to my previous thinner-core (1.25" thick) rad and dual 1650cfm fans and it stays at 180-190 after boosty boosty boostboost pulls just on the street. Boost on the highway keeps it at 180, and idling in traffic is 180 or sometimes lower.
All this was done just throughout one day.. needless to say it was the only day I had that Griffin rad in the car. I ended up going back to my previous thinner-core (1.25" thick) rad and dual 1650cfm fans and it stays at 180-190 after boosty boosty boostboost pulls just on the street. Boost on the highway keeps it at 180, and idling in traffic is 180 or sometimes lower.
12-26-2014, 09:40 AM
#142
nice, i havent had any issues with the stock radiator and a nice mazda single fan, i guess we will see what happens in ocean city in the summer!
but also i had to get an alum rad, since this one leaks in 20 spots haha
100 dollar eslay rad
summer driving report will tell, but it cools really well as is.
but also i had to get an alum rad, since this one leaks in 20 spots haha
100 dollar eslay rad
summer driving report will tell, but it cools really well as is.
02-13-2015, 11:00 AM
#143
I haven't updated in a while. I've been driving as much as I can lately, right about 500 miles. weather has finally cleared up here in Tx so it's been pretty nice. Temps are holding a solid 180-195.
I've got a dyno session scheduled for 2/26 to get tuned, so I hope to have some numbers posted in the next 2 weeks! Vids to come too, can't have a dyno session without vids
Thanks man, I looked back at your 240 LS-T build a while back, haven't seen it in a while.
Function over form, right? haha
crazy, I can see how a thinner core will aid in flow just never done a side by side comparison
I've got a dyno session scheduled for 2/26 to get tuned, so I hope to have some numbers posted in the next 2 weeks! Vids to come too, can't have a dyno session without vids
Thanks man, I looked back at your 240 LS-T build a while back, haven't seen it in a while.
Function over form, right? haha
I had the exact same cooling issues on my turbo setup with my 2" x 16" x 26" cored Griffin rad using a single 2700cfm 16" fan. With a standard 3" x 12" x 26" intercooler stacked right in front of the rad, the fan just couldn't pull enough air thru it all to cool the engine. From a cold start in decent 15*C weather, it would climb to 200*F just idling, and just putt-putt'ing around it would climb to 220*F quickly. If I dabbled into boosty 4th gear pulls at highway speed it wouldn't drop below 230*F with 130km/h air ramming into the IC & lower part of rad (I have pretty good frontal flow with my grill as well as the holes in the bumper.. much better than a S13). If I dabbled in half-boosty pulls on the street it would climb to 235+*F and I just had to pull over and turn it off with the fan still running.
All this was done just throughout one day.. needless to say it was the only day I had that Griffin rad in the car. I ended up going back to my previous thinner-core (1.25" thick) rad and dual 1650cfm fans and it stays at 180-190 after boosty boosty boostboost pulls just on the street. Boost on the highway keeps it at 180, and idling in traffic is 180 or sometimes lower.
All this was done just throughout one day.. needless to say it was the only day I had that Griffin rad in the car. I ended up going back to my previous thinner-core (1.25" thick) rad and dual 1650cfm fans and it stays at 180-190 after boosty boosty boostboost pulls just on the street. Boost on the highway keeps it at 180, and idling in traffic is 180 or sometimes lower.
02-27-2015, 01:42 AM
#145
Today was a good day. Got the car tuned today and it was pretty damn solid. Not quite what I was hoping to get, but definitely met my expectations.
Final numbers:
608whp and 526wtrq at 8psi
we were limited to boost based on my EBC not responding and relying on waste gate spring pressue ~ 7-8psi.
Fuel was only hitting 70% duty cycle so there was definitely more left in it.
12-15psi could have put us into 650+whp. oh well, i'll definitely be back for more.
right now, it's still a chore to handle this much power in such a little/light car.
Here are some vids from the day.
568whp at 7psi
590whp at 7psi - fedex guy wanted to take a peek
608whp at 8psi
Final numbers:
608whp and 526wtrq at 8psi
we were limited to boost based on my EBC not responding and relying on waste gate spring pressue ~ 7-8psi.
Fuel was only hitting 70% duty cycle so there was definitely more left in it.
12-15psi could have put us into 650+whp. oh well, i'll definitely be back for more.
right now, it's still a chore to handle this much power in such a little/light car.
Here are some vids from the day.
568whp at 7psi
590whp at 7psi - fedex guy wanted to take a peek
608whp at 8psi
02-27-2015, 11:24 AM
#152
I'm looking to get more from my tuner, but here's the last run.
Looking back, he did not save the logs for the runs. however, here is my High Octane Spare table
It's definitely a blast. I will have to relearn how to drive this thing.
I'm already thinking about upgrading to LS3 or LSA heads. I need to just stick with what I have now for a while. we'll see
Looking back, he did not save the logs for the runs. however, here is my High Octane Spare table
It's definitely a blast. I will have to relearn how to drive this thing.
I'm already thinking about upgrading to LS3 or LSA heads. I need to just stick with what I have now for a while. we'll see
Last edited by 91 240; 02-27-2015 at 11:53 AM.
02-27-2015, 12:19 PM
#154
TECH Fanatic
Great work. Looks like full song @ 3k which will be great fun on the street! My timing table looks about the same-much higher than the "babysoft" guys like to see. 
Also a note-are you on a single 38mm gate?
Also a note-are you on a single 38mm gate?
02-27-2015, 01:48 PM
#155
thanks! I haven't done much yet, but it's been interesting already
Thanks man!
that was my actual target, not that it would be useable in any way. just a fun number to have.
how do my timing numbers compare to what you have in your TT Z? Love your car, btw
YES!!!
yeah, i'm definitely not used to having that much torque, that soon, for that long. Need to isolate my issue or upgrade to an Eboost2 or something. Pardon my ignorance, SBE?
Nice! Thanks. yeah, i'm on a single JGS 40mm gate
how do my timing numbers compare to what you have in your TT Z? Love your car, btw
Nice! Thanks. yeah, i'm on a single JGS 40mm gate
02-27-2015, 02:26 PM
#156
SBE= Stock Bottom End. I had forgot you are running aftermarket rods/pistons. Crank that sucker up!
Either way before upgrading heads, you could make a ton more power with boost. I’d guess you have a boost/exh leak, need more spring pressure, or different WG routing. For less than $20 worth of parts my dash mounted manual boost controller gives me between 9 and 25+lbs very reliably. How is yours plumbed? Are you using top and bottom WG ports? Do you have a stiffer spring you can install in your WG? If you do go with another boost controller I’d look into progressive units. It’s almost mandatory for any kind of traction on the street at higher boost levels.
Either way before upgrading heads, you could make a ton more power with boost. I’d guess you have a boost/exh leak, need more spring pressure, or different WG routing. For less than $20 worth of parts my dash mounted manual boost controller gives me between 9 and 25+lbs very reliably. How is yours plumbed? Are you using top and bottom WG ports? Do you have a stiffer spring you can install in your WG? If you do go with another boost controller I’d look into progressive units. It’s almost mandatory for any kind of traction on the street at higher boost levels.
02-28-2015, 11:22 PM
#157
SBE= Stock Bottom End. I had forgot you are running aftermarket rods/pistons. Crank that sucker up!
Either way before upgrading heads, you could make a ton more power with boost. Id guess you have a boost/exh leak, need more spring pressure, or different WG routing. For less than $20 worth of parts my dash mounted manual boost controller gives me between 9 and 25+lbs very reliably. How is yours plumbed? Are you using top and bottom WG ports? Do you have a stiffer spring you can install in your WG? If you do go with another boost controller Id look into progressive units. Its almost mandatory for any kind of traction on the street at higher boost levels.
Either way before upgrading heads, you could make a ton more power with boost. Id guess you have a boost/exh leak, need more spring pressure, or different WG routing. For less than $20 worth of parts my dash mounted manual boost controller gives me between 9 and 25+lbs very reliably. How is yours plumbed? Are you using top and bottom WG ports? Do you have a stiffer spring you can install in your WG? If you do go with another boost controller Id look into progressive units. Its almost mandatory for any kind of traction on the street at higher boost levels.
as for my BC setup, yes i'm using both top and bottom ports on the WG. I do have a 10psi spring I can switch out if need be.
I'm leaning pretty heavily towards the Eboost2 for the boost by gear mapping. limiting a few psi in 1-3 gears "could" help traction issues
03-01-2015, 10:52 AM
#159
here's another set that require less grinding, but are more expensive. I kinda link these http://www.ctsvbrakeswap.com/nissan/...aliper-bracket
03-05-2015, 01:45 AM
#160
Thanks man! The brackets are from Mazworx and require a decent amount of grinding to the back side of the caliper. http://www.mazworx.com/store/p/87-Ma...s-S13-S14.aspx
here's another set that require less grinding, but are more expensive. I kinda link these http://www.ctsvbrakeswap.com/nissan/...aliper-bracket
here's another set that require less grinding, but are more expensive. I kinda link these http://www.ctsvbrakeswap.com/nissan/...aliper-bracket