When I get the new belt in I will post up on everything I did to get it to fit right.
J

 

Yea, I figure I might need to add another washer to each standoff.........

That will give me clerance between the idlers, but will cause the belt to ride even furter off the crank pulley, so this means I would have to add another washer to the cog idler to bring the belt back on.......

Then I can clear out space to move the idler/tensioner up/down.........
Are you clearing a 1/2" for the bottom half to try and run the belt under the tensioner, or are you clearing out the top side to run the belt on top like you are currently?

We will get it right, eventually........

 

Well I had something interesting happen to me at my college class today, I was parking the car and started to hear a grinding noise, not easily detectable because of the "noise" that the D-1SC makes, I popped the hood and checked it out.....

Hmmm....

The blower pulley was resting up against the alt. pulley.........and the bolt holding it on was hanging on by a FEW threads......thank god it didn't fall off.......so I called up a buddy of mine and he brought a jack to the school so I could get it up in the air......

This makes me think I should of put locktite to begin with on that bolt......maybe this slight movement at times caused that pulley to walk somewhat causing the belt to jump? Would this be a possible culprit.....

I only had red locktite w/me so I put it on some threads and put that bolt back in, I'm sure it won't come loose now............

So that was the interesting part of my day today.......

 

Yep always use loctite on the s/c bolt. I use an air ratchet to take it off and put it on. No chance of that lil guy coming out.

If I understand you correctly, I am elongating the slot up toward the hood. Best way I can describe it. I already opened it up quite abit but I guess that wasn't enough. Once I get the right amount of clearancing, I will be running the belt under the tensioner.
I'll keep you posted once the new belt is get here.
J

 

Sounds good, keep me updated for sure......

Hopefully I can get to sikoras within the next few weeks........

I turned the bolt on the car as tight as I could, and was holding onto the crank pulley, but the motor started turning, I assume its on there pretty tight, shouldn't move w/the red locktite either.......

But I'm wondering if this could of caused the belt to skip.....I'll take it for a little drive tomorrow and see if its somewhat better.....

 

If the bolt backed out that far make sure the key didnt fall out..

 

Key is in there........

 

force fed, , from seeing the last pics you posted it seems you almost had it. all you have to do is mount the belt on the cog belt, route it under the idler ( like a stock belt would ride)and here's what you differently, start mounting the belt on the bottom of the crank cog and wrap it towards the top so you have the top of the pulley exposed ( almost the opposite of your pic.) then when you cant stretch it anymore over the crank cog, bump the starter. by doing so the rotation of the crank will pull the belt up on the cog. you won't have as much tension on the belt ( maybe as much as you had before you bumped the starter). the hardest part is getting over the "bump" that is the edge of the crank cog.

i do this all the time with my 8 rib and it always ends up looser after it was mounted than when it was just before i bumped the starter.

sorry for making this so long, but i hope i made it clear what i think. ( man that's alot of "I" 's in one sentence!

 

Perfectly clear Dirty, I had a 1 inch ratchet with a cheater pipe on that to try to force it up. Starting from the bottom of the crank cog with the cog belt routed under the tensioner(like it suppose to go) and the cog belt started going on up until it started flexing **** real bad, I am sure if I bumped the started it would tweeked something so I didn't. I'll just wait till the new belt comes in and then I will open up the slot some more, no biggie.
These cog belts are not flexible at all compared to an 6 or 8 rib. They are real stiff and just don't stretch at all even heated up with a heat gun
We are getting there though.
J

 

We are indeed getting there......

Jeremy, you have a PM....

 

Got the belt from Mcmastercar.com. I was kinda afraid to see what was shipped to me. I was expecting a no name belt, but lo and behold. Its a Gates Powergrip GT. Just like we have. For 30 dollars shipped 2 day USPS priority you can't go wrong. Now time to go install it and mod the bracket a lil more.
J

 

Part # Jer..... good to know a place to buy extra belts.... keep us posted....
Kyle

 

I'm pretty sure its.....

Part Number 6486K218 $30.85 Each

Jeremy keep me updated w/the tensioner situation....

 

TTT, Jeremy, you try my idea out?

I went to try and put more gas in the car today to make sure I wasn't running low, I know I was getting close to 1/4 tank, started to hear the damn pump sucking air again around turns........thats the only thing that annoys me with this new fuel setup is the pickup design.....gas station was out of 100, and I didn't want to put 92 in, so I drove it home, I got enough gas to get me back there, but I don't want to be starting it and moving it.....

Precious fuel......

 

HEY YOU GUYS.........




Just wanted to Chime in here.. I read some of the posts, not all. You should ask me some specific questions. Everything, you guys are going through, I've went through. I look at the pictures, and have read some of your results. Looks good. 1 Thing I never did was post up all my results and take pictures of my Cogs setup. But I've had mine for over 1 year and 11,000 miles. Ask me some questions.

A few statements. I'll be quick here cause I'm running out the door.

KP I saw you have a hose clamp around your plastic inlet housing for your blower. I used to run mine that way. Problem was with the Cog's pullys pushing my blower closer to the radiator shroud, would cause the plastic housing to hit the radaitor housing, as the motor would torque up, and by putting a tight hose clamp around the blower unit, (and yes the D-1 and P-1 are the same size) made the plastic inlet break and brittle appart and get sucked into the blower impeller blades. This happened to me about 8 months ago. Never the less the Blower needed to be rebuilt. I was not too happy about that and blamed ATI. All I'm saying be careful, and watch to see if your plastic inlet is breaking around where it goes over the blower. If it is watch out. I'm running a metal inlet now with 2 hose clamps and a blue rubber hose that I cut to fit it together.

2nd. A cogs belt too tight, is a no no. That the worst thing you can do, to shorten the life of your belt. A little more on the loose side is better.

3rd. Though I have not run mine this way, but by running the tentioner on the other side of the belt, hense the tentioner hitting the teeth, would cause pre-mature wear as well. I would use the back side, smooth side of the belt. I've run mine this way with good success.

4th. My setup is perfect right now. My problem is the aluminum bracket that holds my blower flexes, and in doing so causes me to throw some belts from time to time. Some people are running their setup, without belt breaking problems, but 1 thing to remember, I drive my car all the time, I love to drive it. It's a street driven car. It's not just a weekend warrior that I take out for a quick drive to the movies with my woman one night. I drive mine to make calls for my work, and that's sometimes driving 300 miles away from home. So if you hear me breaking my cogs belt a lot, It's because I drive my car alot.

1 other thing. I have discovered too that if you race or shift in high rpms, make damn sure you don't tap the rev limiter. The sudden shutter of spinning the blower up very fast, then suddenly stopping from the limiter, causes belt wear , and possibly skip a few teeth too. Of course it's not good to hit the rev limiter anyway. But if you have a auto, or M6 and you shift say at 6200 make sure you edit your computer to allow yourself room in your rpm range to not hit the limiter. I've learned this when I'm at WOT in 1st or 2nd gear. Anything more than 50% throttle in 1st is a waste of time after 3,000 rpms since I'm spinning my tires. Same goes to 2nd gear, anything after 3000 to 3500 rpms spins them up. 1st no way, but 2nd sometimes I'll think it will hold and go WOT, My tires light up and if I'm not off the throttle right away, I'll hit the rev limiter.

Well I've gotta go. Ask me some questions you COG guys if you have any, and try my best to answer them..

Take care.

Clint

 

good points there, especially the rev limiter one!

 

All thats left for me to do is to run the belt on the smooth side, which is under the tensioner, instead of over like me and jeremy are currently.....

Good points clint.....I got about 250 miles of driving around town on the belt, and its showing minimal wear so far.......

 

Thanks for the heads up on the plastic inlet Clint. This one is a lot different then the original kit I had, the plastic is a lot softer. I'm nowhere near the shroud right now but if I did a cog setup or 8rib and had to space the blower out it would hit for sure - I'll keep an eye on it anyhow, thats a crap way to kill a blower.

 

Clint, haven't felt the need to ask you a question(s) I feel I have it pretty much covered, BUT THERE IS ONE THING

The difference between our cogs and yours is a big one. We have more teeth on both the s/c cog and the crank cog. The 960 belt,which fits decent on your cogs.. with a lil tensioner slot lenghtening did the trick for you. Good glad it worked for you.
Pics would be helpful, but I am sure I have done everything you have done to get these things to work. i.e. making the tensioner slot longer, if you have read up on my progress with these things, you would have seen that I have done that. The standoffs all have enough spacers to clear everything but its the damn extra teeth that are ******* everything up. The size you have looks to be optimal for the ATI f-body kit. Yeah some work was required but it fits and works like it should on your car, because of the couple teeth less that you are running.BIG DIFFERENCE

The extra teeth on the cogs forced us to us the tensioner in the fashion that we did. There was simply no extra play to get it to work the right way.....now if there was a cog belt with 1/2 more play BAM it would fit perfectly. With that said....


I got it to work like its suppose to. AND Bos, Nope your idea didn't work. There isn't someone strong enough to get it on the other side with the bracket still mounted. I gave it hell though, as it was a good idea.

Heres a break down to what I did. I got out the air grinder and opened that slot up to an 1-1/2 of the top of the bracket. I should have gone up a lil bit more though. When I went to bolt the s/c up, all the holes lined up with the bracket and I was relieved. I got the first bolt started(large one out of the 5) and tried to get a small one started.

NO DICE, it was off by a HAIR. We tried to force the belt to stretch some but no chance of that happening with these cog belts. SO I just slid the belt off the crank cog to free up some slack and proceeded in bolting the s/c up to the bracket. I then went to get the belt over the crank cog, but it was fighting me, so I did what dirty rec'ed I bumped the engine with the key. The belt went right up

So I went to see how much slack I had in the belt. I crawled under the car and found the belt to be tighter than hell. It HAS NO SLACK, this is with the tensioner all the way up on a slot that has been lengthen to the extreme. So I didn't have to crank the tensioner bolt down any lol. I ran the car for about 20min to see if it would stretch any, nope not at all. This cog belt is so tight I can pluck it and make it hum like a guitar string That was good for my 6ribs but not this belt. So it was getting dark and I thought I would give it a rest until tomorrow.

About few things about the tensioner now. It is now almost side by side with the LS1 idler. I am glad I moved it in towards the bracket now. It's very tight, but they aren't rubbing......yet. I just figure I would add more washers to the brackets tomorrow. But One Question......HOW DO I GET THE BELT OFF NOW I guess I could cut it off lol. ANY IDEAS?!?!?

Here are a few pics of course...

UNDER THE TENSIONER, don't even have to screw the jack screw down any but....


BUT THE BELT IS FREAKIN TIGHT, I mean I can pluck this belt like a guitar string and it HUMS LOUDLY.

DAMN look at that clearance....just a few more washers...now how do I get this belt off.

I am now fed up with these things, I need a turbo
Now harm meant to you clint, I am just a lil frustrated right now.

J

PS sorry for the delay in responding guys. As you guys know I do all my work myself in my driveway on ramps. So if the weather sucks I stay indoors. Today was a nice 60 deg day so the work commenced.

Oh yeah, I am sure that running the belt on top of the tensioner will not wear the belt down any faster. ALL 6-71,8-71 Roots blowers route the cog belts on top of the tensioner and have been doing that for many many years, its all about the belt wrap though.

 

Interesting.........

So after taking 1.5" off towards the top, how much farther can you go SAFELY?

This is another step in the right direction.......I remember they had to bump mine to get my 8 rib on, thats how tight I had it...........

Take the car for a spin the way it is and see how it does with some 1/2-3/4 throttle punches........

Take off the idler to get the belt off.......