Catch can rounting for procharger...
Catch can rounting for procharger... Just ordered a Norris motorsports catch can... Ill have a D1SC on the car running about 8psi. Can I route the can like this diagram?
or do i have to route the clean side coming off the passenger side valve cover down to the air intlet hat?
or do i have to route the clean side coming off the passenger side valve cover down to the air intlet hat?
You have to go from the front of the passenger side valve cover down to the inlet hat because you need to have vacuum on that line. If you put it where it is in that picture, when you hit boost, you'll actually pressurize your crankcase and cause all kinds of troubles like oil leaks out of you mains, ring issues etc.
I picked up a hose barb fitting and drilled into the plastic inlet hat slightly smaller than the barb fitting, then threaded it into the hat. Since it's on the inlet side, it's only going to see vacuum, so it's not like it's under pressure. I then routed a hose from the barb, up to the passenger side valve cover.
Right. I got that part. right now the passenger side lave cover goes to the TB. when I switch it to the intake hat, the TB nipple will b open. Do I just cap that off? Or does it need to be ran some where?
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. Get that car running yet? 
I have mine the same way, and the rear ports of both valve covers are vented. I would also add a catch can to your line into the inlet hat.
yeah it is running. sitting outside. going to swap the belt to a smaller one that will allow me to get it really right. front fascia is not on yet. taking it to the performance shop to have them finish up the catch can, and gauges, and the methanol is going to be run into my glovebox. not that i couldnt do it really, but it took me a month to get the kit on alone and im tired of waiting. plus....those are the three areas that i have no clue about...i mean in my defense...the tune will be dependent on the methanol and if something goes amiss etc....then im out of a motor. but i drove it to the store earlier just babying it and it was ridiculously loud. i hear alot of flutter. the particular big red blow off valve that i have doesnt seem to have the place on it to hook up the vaccum line like i see on everyone elses...but ill let him worry about that. im just covering all my bases making sure that everything is as good as it can be to buy me some time on the stock bottom end before the forged 347 build next year.
Well thats good to hear that flutter is probably from the BOV being closed and it's putting pressure back onto the compressor. U should have gotten 2 fitting with the BOV, and there should be a threaded hole on top of it for one of them. It's a push style fitting kind of like a water fitting. gauges are pretty simple to do, very time consuming thought I don't blame ya there. I'd pick up a flow gauge for the meth pump also and I think u can level indicator lights for them too. are u putting the pump in the glove box or the reservoir? Lol
where are my damn vids! Well thats good to hear that flutter is probably from the BOV being closed and it's putting pressure back onto the compressor. U should have gotten 2 fitting with the BOV, and there should be a threaded hole on top of it for one of them. It's a push style fitting kind of like a water fitting. gauges are pretty simple to do, very time consuming thought I don't blame ya there. I'd pick up a flow gauge for the meth pump also and I think u can level indicator lights for them too. are u putting the pump in the glove box or the reservoir? Lol
yeah i saw the two brass fittings and was going to put them on and run the line, then I realised I wasn't sure where to run the line. I will do another catch can later on like you during the forge build. I went with a black Rx can. I may have overpayed, but the customer service was great and they have great directions and its quality. I am all about not skimping out on this build. That would be like having a D1SC and a 6 rib? makes no sense......The methanol Controller, and Tester will be in the glovebox. I trust the Alkycontrol Kit and I am sure I will have no issues, or at least I better not. I have a case of it in my room, and I will never let it run out. My hood literally comes up at every fillup. The gauges just wore me out thinking about it. I have had enough hands on this last month to last me until I swap the 10 bolt to the 12. He also has a body man that works there part time, and he will be the one cutting the bumper and putting it back on. They are going to tidy up behind me basically, but he looked at it today and said it was not often that he sees an F-Body in such great shape.
Be careful on trusting any pump! I have a buddy with a maggie on a C6 vette with alky control and his pump took a ****. also, another suggestion, skip the 12 bolt and grab a 9", they are stronger and weigh less than the stock 10bolt (depending on what options u go with). Plus the 12 bolt and 9" are basically the same price, so why not get the stronger one. i need to have the body shop finish my bumper trim, it still doesnt fit exaclty how i want it to, and im tired of ******* with it lol. how soon do u plan on having it tuned?
well his helper got hurt and was in the hospital for a bit so he will be back soon. and they will get to moving on with all there work. so as soon as all this is installed and i can drive it over to the stall shop 2 hours away.....they are going to cut into my stall and re vamp it for the blower. $50 is not bad for that. it will be tuned in about a month or so......i understand the 9 inch deal....but im very very hesitant to put anything from ford into it. plus i hear the 9 inch is only as strong as the third member and a third can cost a fair amount. the only thing that appealed was the easy gear swaps on it. but idk maybe i will suck it up and do it. the parasitic loss is another thing i didnt like, but then again since this stall is going to be 4000 now instead of 3200 then itll prob be a better choice. i guess when i go forged and bump it to max psi i will need it too. if his alky pump took a ****, then you would think there would be a built in safety of the pcm would detect the damn rise in IAT and lay on some timing or something. but for $600 I sure hope to hell it doesnt. I figure if the controller and tester come on and work...it works....any links to show me the setup used to detect a bad pump?
well his helper got hurt and was in the hospital for a bit so he will be back soon. and they will get to moving on with all there work. so as soon as all this is installed and i can drive it over to the stall shop 2 hours away.....they are going to cut into my stall and re vamp it for the blower. $50 is not bad for that. it will be tuned in about a month or so......i understand the 9 inch deal....but im very very hesitant to put anything from ford into it. plus i hear the 9 inch is only as strong as the third member and a third can cost a fair amount. the only thing that appealed was the easy gear swaps on it. but idk maybe i will suck it up and do it. the parasitic loss is another thing i didnt like, but then again since this stall is going to be 4000 now instead of 3200 then itll prob be a better choice. i guess when i go forged and bump it to max psi i will need it too. if his alky pump took a ****, then you would think there would be a built in safety of the pcm would detect the damn rise in IAT and lay on some timing or something. but for $600 I sure hope to hell it doesnt. I figure if the controller and tester come on and work...it works....any links to show me the setup used to detect a bad pump?
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=05
for visual flow
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CFsQ8wIwAg
with those 2, plus a wideband, im sure ud catch a pump failure before the motor goes
ya i dont etiher, but its either sarcrifice some looks or blow a motor lol....
or rig something up lol
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Sing.../dp/B0018AO3U4
or rig something up lol
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Sing.../dp/B0018AO3U4