Z06kern

iTrader: (18)

Have not made a pass yet but, just from driving down the highway with it I worried about my hood paint warping.

Z06kern

iTrader: (18)

Welded the brackets on the radiator and got it mounted up. I also spaced the intercooler roughly two inches from the radiator:


I ended up with more clearance for the fans:

Shot from the bottom, electric pump has plenty of clearance for fittings and hose:

forgedlt4

this.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Air dam is neccesary for street driving. Even with the nose cut out.

forgedlt4

i drove mine for two years with no airdam. the fans would just run non-stop

I_Need_Land

iTrader: (12)

wrong. tripleblackls1 nailed it. the ls1 is a dual circuit design, you can pump all around the pump > rad > and back but if you never incorporate the block and heads what cooling will it do? very little.

someone used to have a pic of the inside of the thermostat housing and what needs to be welded closed.

basically, the thermostat has two discs, when the coolant is closed, the thermostat is in a position where the coolant stays in the block and heads in order to heat up quickly. but when it gets hot it forces the flow to go through the entire system.

without the thermostat there is nothing to direct this flow through the block and heads. YES it naturally does flow through both circuits , but it leads to overheating as is the case of this thread..

I_Need_Land

iTrader: (12)

so lets put an electrical load than can be measured on a dyno on the car vs. a natural solution?

forgedlt4

i never drove the car very far, and i EXPLAINED the the fans ran the entire time. i never said it was a solution.

Kickergt

Consider shrinking down that intercooler to a regular 3" with big ports or oval ports and put meth on it. You will make more power any way you slice it with a manifold temp below 50 degrees regardless of intercooler size. That will help a **** load with overheating. Pure air flow over the radiator. An electric waterpump would be nice too.

tripblackls1

iTrader: (11)

madmax im pretty sure you were saying the the water needed to be slowed down, which is incorrect and actually quite the opposite, do you ever wonder why they sell very expensive higher flowing waterpumps?
guys pls do some reading on thermodynamics before posting this crap,
im not trying to start a e-war, we just dont need this old wives tale being spread around the fourms
if you like i could give you a few examples in laymans terms of why you want as much flow as possible
and just a fyi i work with thermodynamics everyday, this is my profession and what i get paid to do

madmax4499

iTrader: (3)

im saying, when the thermostat closes it slows the coolant down in the radiator allowing it to do its job, "pull the heat out of the water" it seems your saying if you run the system wide open at say 40 gpm. it will cool just fine. i would think the temp would just keep rising. im no thermodynamics expert. there has to be a reason most any automotive cooling system has a thermostat. if im wrong feel free to educate me. im just an over paid mechanic with many years of theory and practical experience.

Foreced Induction Sp

We have built alot of kits for this cars and how the engine compartment is design once you put turbo's setup in there isnt enough room to help cool down the hot side. Just put a turbo blanket on over half the time that will take care of it and if not then wrap all your hotside and problem will be fixed im sure of it.

Z06kern

iTrader: (18)

I'm pretty confident that once the radiator is installed, turbo blanket, and all my coated hot side is wrapped the issue will be resolved. I will post up my findings good or bad.
All I can say is I gained a ton of room from removing the stock water pump and running block adapter fittings.


Some updated photos of the turbo blanket and wrap. I not really a fan of the wrap look but if it keeps temps down: