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Which 2 step?

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Old 09-14-2011, 07:04 PM
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CR is a contact relay there are 4 relays in the diagram, they are marked 1 through 4. The circles are the relay coils and the vertical lines are the contacts. the ones with the 45* lines connecting them are normaly closed the open ones are normaly open. All the cube relays have numbers on the male pins. The numbers are on the drawing.
Old 09-14-2011, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
I was one of the people that had the Lingenfucker no step. It worked at first then stopped. Dont get me started on there customer service.
I bought two MSD two steps, runs them parralel in my turbo car so I use the first step on the foot brake and the second step on the trans brake. This setup is on its third season without an issue
And there you go people, that's what a local X275 tuner around here told me to do if I wanted one on the footbrake. The way I stage, I don't need one on the footbrake, and if for some reason the track can't hold and I don't get to launch at my normal 4100rpm, I'd be at 3900 or lower and able to hit my 2 step chip on the footbrake that low or lower so I really don't need a 2nd one anymore, but if you do, run it like Ray has.
Old 09-17-2011, 11:05 AM
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Default Lingenfelter 2-step products

The Lingenfelter 2-steps are "weather proof". They are all fully potted so the wires are sealed in the potting compound. The rear cover on the LNC-002, LNC-003 and LNC-2000 is mostly to hide the potting compound and to cover the programming port. Because this cover is mostly just an appearance cover and the wires themselves are sealed in the potting compound, the opening in the case around the wires doesn't need to be sealed and wouldn't serve much purpose if it were.

The rotary potentiometers are sealed against the inside of the case. Water intrusion under normal usage should not be an issue.

The device is not water proof though and should not be submerged in water (put in a bucket of water for example) and you should avoid pressure washing near the unit so that you don't spray high pressure water into the adjustment dials because that can dislodge the seals.

We have had some customers extend the wires to mount them inside the vehicle to make it easier to make changes to the settings (from inside the car) but you need to be careful about this because extending the wires increases the chances of electrical noise problems because of the increased wire area. It also increases the resistance in the circuit and every joint is another potential failure area.

If you are extending the wires or relocating the LNC, be careful where you mount the device too. We had one customer that relocated the LNC and an aux injector driver box and put the wires for both along side each other and then mounted the two boxes next to each other. The aux injector drive with the high current, low impedance injectors created significant electrical noise that caused problems. Once we moved the two devices and the wiring away from each other the problems were resolved.

Are you currently having a problem with the LNC-002 or are you just thinking of relocating the device as a precaution? If you are having a problem, please contact us with the details and we will see what we can do to resolve.


Originally Posted by xXxSilveradoxXx
I have a Lingefelter LNC-002. I think the problem with them is that they aren't weather-proof. Looking at mine where the adjustments are made and also where the wires enter/exit the unit there just isn't any protection from the elements. I'm thinking about mounting mine inside my car somewhere when I make a custom harness.
Old 09-17-2011, 11:33 AM
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I was at the track last night helping a friend with his car. We were having a problem with the car and unplugged the harness from the connectors and after plugging it back in it wouldn't work properly. I am not familiar with it so I wasn't much help troubleshooting the problem.
Old 09-17-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGBRKR02
I was at the track last night helping a friend with his car. We were having a problem with the car and unplugged the harness from the connectors and after plugging it back in it wouldn't work properly. I am not familiar with it so I wasn't much help troubleshooting the problem.
Lingefelter 2 step?
Old 09-17-2011, 12:29 PM
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Yea it was the LNC-003
Old 09-17-2011, 12:38 PM
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Default Lingenfelter 2-step related problems

I have seen several posts on this thread about problems with the LPE 2-step products. I would like to take a quick moment to comment on this.

I think you will find threads/posts on the Internet regarding some type of problem with the majority of the different add-on electronics products installed on modified and even stock vehicles, including 2-steps from LPE, MSD, Harlan, Synergy etc. Some products have been on the market longer than others and/or have more in use and that will impact how many posts/comments are made. The LPE 2-steps have been on the market for 4 years, longer than any other similar product, and we have several hundred of them in use, with the vast majority not experiencing any problems.

Many different combinations of components exist on modified vehicles and each of them can impact the operation of the different systems. Things like different spark plug wires, spark plugs, coils, solenoids etc all create electrical noise and voltage spikes that can interact with other devices differently. Different mounting location and the many different wiring configurations further complicate matters.

Lingenfelter Performance Engineering stands behind all of our products, including our many electronic products. I am very sorry to hear that anyone has had problems with our products but I realize that problems do sometimes occur. I invite anyone having a problem with any of the LPE 2-steps and timing retard devices to contact us and we will do our best to resolve the problem. Call or email our sales department directly or private message one of us on this forum (me included).

We have a test bench with an engine signal simulator that allows us to run a GM ECM with the full LS ignition system firing the individual coils and spark plugs without an actual running engine. This allows us to test for the operation of the 2-step, the selector switches and the wiring harness in a controlled environment. If we can’t find the problem on the test bench then we will put the device on a vehicle to test for the problem.

If you do have a problem we do need your help in determining what is causing it and, since almost every vehicle is different, we need to know some basic details about your particular installation so that we can determine what might be causing the problem and how to solve it. Please just don’t send it back and say “it doesn’t work”.

Things we need to know include:
  • Year, make, model of vehicle.
  • What spark plugs, coils and spark plug wires you are using?
  • What other devices you have on the vehicle (line-lock, trans-brake, injector driver box, nitrous etc.)?
  • How do you have the LNC device wired in the car, how are you triggering the device?
  • What exactly the problem is including when does it occur (what engine rpm, 2-step activated/not activated, timing retard activated/not activated, etc.)?
  • Did the problem exist from the beginning or has it changed?
  • What do the diagnostic lights on the LNC do when the problem occurs?
  • If you leave the LNC in the system (plugged into the coils) but disconnect any type of activation, does the problem still occur?
  • If you remove the LNC from the system completely, does the problem still occur?
Many of these same questions probably apply in one form or another to trouble shooting almost any electronic device you have connected to your vehicle (nitrous controller, auxiliary injector controller, boost controller etc.).

Regards,
Old 09-18-2011, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Haines @ LPE
I have seen several posts on this thread about problems with the LPE 2-step products. I would like to take a quick moment to comment on this.

I think you will find threads/posts on the Internet regarding some type of problem with the majority of the different add-on electronics products installed on modified and even stock vehicles, including 2-steps from LPE, MSD, Harlan, Synergy etc. Some products have been on the market longer than others and/or have more in use and that will impact how many posts/comments are made. The LPE 2-steps have been on the market for 4 years, longer than any other similar product, and we have several hundred of them in use, with the vast majority not experiencing any problems.

Many different combinations of components exist on modified vehicles and each of them can impact the operation of the different systems. Things like different spark plug wires, spark plugs, coils, solenoids etc all create electrical noise and voltage spikes that can interact with other devices differently. Different mounting location and the many different wiring configurations further complicate matters.

Lingenfelter Performance Engineering stands behind all of our products, including our many electronic products. I am very sorry to hear that anyone has had problems with our products but I realize that problems do sometimes occur. I invite anyone having a problem with any of the LPE 2-steps and timing retard devices to contact us and we will do our best to resolve the problem. Call or email our sales department directly or private message one of us on this forum (me included).

We have a test bench with an engine signal simulator that allows us to run a GM ECM with the full LS ignition system firing the individual coils and spark plugs without an actual running engine. This allows us to test for the operation of the 2-step, the selector switches and the wiring harness in a controlled environment. If we can’t find the problem on the test bench then we will put the device on a vehicle to test for the problem.

If you do have a problem we do need your help in determining what is causing it and, since almost every vehicle is different, we need to know some basic details about your particular installation so that we can determine what might be causing the problem and how to solve it. Please just don’t send it back and say “it doesn’t work”.

Things we need to know include:
  • Year, make, model of vehicle.
  • What spark plugs, coils and spark plug wires you are using?
  • What other devices you have on the vehicle (line-lock, trans-brake, injector driver box, nitrous etc.)?
  • How do you have the LNC device wired in the car, how are you triggering the device?
  • What exactly the problem is including when does it occur (what engine rpm, 2-step activated/not activated, timing retard activated/not activated, etc.)?
  • Did the problem exist from the beginning or has it changed?
  • What do the diagnostic lights on the LNC do when the problem occurs?
  • If you leave the LNC in the system (plugged into the coils) but disconnect any type of activation, does the problem still occur?
  • If you remove the LNC from the system completely, does the problem still occur?
Many of these same questions probably apply in one form or another to trouble shooting almost any electronic device you have connected to your vehicle (nitrous controller, auxiliary injector controller, boost controller etc.).

Regards,
I know your box may have problems with devices that draw high amperage (line lock solenoid, etc), but what about if a transbrake uses a stock 4l60/80 shift solenoid (~1 amp)? I don't have any problems (don't have one yet, but I am trying to prevent any when I get to that point).
Old 09-18-2011, 12:13 PM
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umm have you looked at the WOT BOX it has 2-step plus no lift shifting and you can also control n2o and meth i have this one on my car but i have not got a chance to use it because i been out of the country for awhile but i have only heard good things about it

http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox
Old 09-20-2011, 01:18 PM
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Default Trans-brake and line-lock solenoids

Our module isn't actually seeing the current of the device since we aren't controlling the solenoid so it isn't the current that is the real problem (at least not directly).

The problem is the fly-back voltage created by the solenoid when it opens and closes. The design of solenoid itself impacts this but so does how it is controlled so even a stock solenoid could create unwanted flyback voltage.

I don't have a scope capture from an OEM transbrake solenoid but attached is a screen capture of the flyback voltage from one of the common line-lock solenoids.

To be safe I would recommend still using the TVS diode (with our device or other company's devices). You may be able to get a similar diode locally at a motorcycle race shop or even Radio Shack.

Originally Posted by slow67
I know your box may have problems with devices that draw high amperage (line lock solenoid, etc), but what about if a transbrake uses a stock 4l60/80 shift solenoid (~1 amp)? I don't have any problems (don't have one yet, but I am trying to prevent any when I get to that point).
Attached Thumbnails Which 2 step?-humphrey-no-tvs.jpg  
Old 09-20-2011, 01:28 PM
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I got a synergy. It works ok, pain in the but to hook up the 20 wires when installing it. BUT it has the trans brake safety function that i like and thats the reason i have it.

All in all its a good two step so far.



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