FI-98X....question
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Started with an 88mm, never even fired it up...changed to a 98x, ran pretty decent and now the PT106
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
I've been reading about heads.....tons of them to choose from...........obviously gonna use a 6 bolt head. I know I don't need to concern myself with the best flow rates with FI......
Is there a favorite that people have good results with at the power levels I'm looking at making???
Was thinking about using the relatively cheap Hogan sheet metal intake.
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Is there a favorite that people have good results with at the power levels I'm looking at making???
Was thinking about using the relatively cheap Hogan sheet metal intake.
.
I've only used ETP (now MAST) heads with pretty good results
Only used box-stock vic jr and super vic as well...
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TTQgqiDMC0
Email is the best way to get in touch with him. Use the message tool on their website. He never took more than a day to get back to me when I was having mine built.
To OP: For a street car I'm with shawn. Go with as many cubes as you can afford and your engine builder can make reliable. That means less stress on the engine to make your power goal which is great for a street car. It will last longer.
What fuel are you going to run? Buying race gas for a street car all the time is a pain and 1300whp on pump, while doable, is going to be risky. That leaves E-85.
Honestly it sounds like you want twins. I didn't see you say why you are limited to a single in the first post. Faster spool and equal power... If you are trying to save money by going with a single go ahead and throw that idea out. Yeah you will save some money but it is a fraction of what a reliable 1300whp build will cost. Build it how you want it now or you will be shaking your head later over what it would cost to re-do the system.
If there is some reason you are stuck on a single, fine. If not, definitely consider the idea of twins. That is coming from someone planning to run a "big" (is an 88mm even a big single anymore? Lol) single.
To OP: For a street car I'm with shawn. Go with as many cubes as you can afford and your engine builder can make reliable. That means less stress on the engine to make your power goal which is great for a street car. It will last longer.
What fuel are you going to run? Buying race gas for a street car all the time is a pain and 1300whp on pump, while doable, is going to be risky. That leaves E-85.
Honestly it sounds like you want twins. I didn't see you say why you are limited to a single in the first post. Faster spool and equal power... If you are trying to save money by going with a single go ahead and throw that idea out. Yeah you will save some money but it is a fraction of what a reliable 1300whp build will cost. Build it how you want it now or you will be shaking your head later over what it would cost to re-do the system.
If there is some reason you are stuck on a single, fine. If not, definitely consider the idea of twins. That is coming from someone planning to run a "big" (is an 88mm even a big single anymore? Lol) single.
Email is the best way to get in touch with him. Use the message tool on their website. He never took more than a day to get back to me when I was having mine built.
To OP: For a street car I'm with shawn. Go with as many cubes as you can afford and your engine builder can make reliable. That means less stress on the engine to make your power goal which is great for a street car. It will last longer.
What fuel are you going to run? Buying race gas for a street car all the time is a pain and 1300whp on pump, while doable, is going to be risky. That leaves E-85.
Honestly it sounds like you want twins. I didn't see you say why you are limited to a single in the first post. Faster spool and equal power... If you are trying to save money by going with a single go ahead and throw that idea out. Yeah you will save some money but it is a fraction of what a reliable 1300whp build will cost. Build it how you want it now or you will be shaking your head later over what it would cost to re-do the system.
If there is some reason you are stuck on a single, fine. If not, definitely consider the idea of twins. That is coming from someone planning to run a "big" (is an 88mm even a big single anymore? Lol) single.
To OP: For a street car I'm with shawn. Go with as many cubes as you can afford and your engine builder can make reliable. That means less stress on the engine to make your power goal which is great for a street car. It will last longer.
What fuel are you going to run? Buying race gas for a street car all the time is a pain and 1300whp on pump, while doable, is going to be risky. That leaves E-85.
Honestly it sounds like you want twins. I didn't see you say why you are limited to a single in the first post. Faster spool and equal power... If you are trying to save money by going with a single go ahead and throw that idea out. Yeah you will save some money but it is a fraction of what a reliable 1300whp build will cost. Build it how you want it now or you will be shaking your head later over what it would cost to re-do the system.
If there is some reason you are stuck on a single, fine. If not, definitely consider the idea of twins. That is coming from someone planning to run a "big" (is an 88mm even a big single anymore? Lol) single.
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Yes the "New S500SX " line of turbos from BW, are the S500's we have been building for about 3-4 years under the FI name. They were not available to the public back then as the S500SX line. They still aren't available with the comp wheel combos we tested and loved. Maybe they will offer then one day, but in the meantime we build them. Also think about the GT55 based billet EZ-94. BEAST of a turbo.
Honestly it sounds like you want twins. I didn't see you say why you are limited to a single in the first post. Faster spool and equal power... If you are trying to save money by going with a single go ahead and throw that idea out. Yeah you will save some money but it is a fraction of what a reliable 1300whp build will cost. Build it how you want it now or you will be shaking your head later over what it would cost to re-do the system.
I'm not stuck on a single......just thought it would be easier to keep A/C....which is a must.
.
Didnt read the whole thread but i have "Fireballs" old 98x on my car...its a 366 with afr 205 out of the bos heads and a stock ls6 intake, 10.3:1...on the brake i have it spoold in about 6 second to 6-8 pounds starting at idle after a burnout
this was without a 2 step, and theres more left in the tune to speed it up, along with a cam not designed very well for this combo. For you to make that kind of power on the street its going to be hard not to lose a bunch on the hit from a roll, you need to start thinking nitrous.
Ive driven aps tt vettes, single turbo cars, and some fast nitrous cars, and if you get a decent nitrous car that can put the power down they can easily win the race in the first 2 second if your not spoold. Even a 100 shot will make a world differance
this was without a 2 step, and theres more left in the tune to speed it up, along with a cam not designed very well for this combo. For you to make that kind of power on the street its going to be hard not to lose a bunch on the hit from a roll, you need to start thinking nitrous.
Ive driven aps tt vettes, single turbo cars, and some fast nitrous cars, and if you get a decent nitrous car that can put the power down they can easily win the race in the first 2 second if your not spoold. Even a 100 shot will make a world differance
Didnt read the whole thread but i have "Fireballs" old 98x on my car...its a 366 with afr 205 out of the bos heads and a stock ls6 intake, 10.3:1...on the brake i have it spoold in about 6 second to 6-8 pounds starting at idle after a burnout
this was without a 2 step, and theres more left in the tune to speed it up, along with a cam not designed very well for this combo. For you to make that kind of power on the street its going to be hard not to lose a bunch on the hit from a roll, you need to start thinking nitrous.
Ive driven aps tt vettes, single turbo cars, and some fast nitrous cars, and if you get a decent nitrous car that can put the power down they can easily win the race in the first 2 second if your not spoold. Even a 100 shot will make a world differance
this was without a 2 step, and theres more left in the tune to speed it up, along with a cam not designed very well for this combo. For you to make that kind of power on the street its going to be hard not to lose a bunch on the hit from a roll, you need to start thinking nitrous.
Ive driven aps tt vettes, single turbo cars, and some fast nitrous cars, and if you get a decent nitrous car that can put the power down they can easily win the race in the first 2 second if your not spoold. Even a 100 shot will make a world differance
Didnt read the whole thread but i have "Fireballs" old 98x on my car...its a 366 with afr 205 out of the bos heads and a stock ls6 intake, 10.3:1...on the brake i have it spoold in about 6 second to 6-8 pounds starting at idle after a burnout
this was without a 2 step, and theres more left in the tune to speed it up, along with a cam not designed very well for this combo. For you to make that kind of power on the street its going to be hard not to lose a bunch on the hit from a roll, you need to start thinking nitrous.
Ive driven aps tt vettes, single turbo cars, and some fast nitrous cars, and if you get a decent nitrous car that can put the power down they can easily win the race in the first 2 second if your not spoold. Even a 100 shot will make a world differance
this was without a 2 step, and theres more left in the tune to speed it up, along with a cam not designed very well for this combo. For you to make that kind of power on the street its going to be hard not to lose a bunch on the hit from a roll, you need to start thinking nitrous.
Ive driven aps tt vettes, single turbo cars, and some fast nitrous cars, and if you get a decent nitrous car that can put the power down they can easily win the race in the first 2 second if your not spoold. Even a 100 shot will make a world differance
.
Last edited by LS6427; Sep 24, 2011 at 05:41 PM.
No i meant nitrous to spool it, like 150 shot on a hobbs switch to turn off at say 10lb's. That could cut down a second or more of spool time, and yes brakes will help but its not always that easy in a auto car and its hard on parts.
I was gonna ask what the limits are to how large of a shot you can out on top of a turbo set-up like I want to do. Or maybe its not being large that matters, its just getting it spooled that matters.............
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