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Attention all stock shortblock players!

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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by atomic 6
What about people that take the engine all apart to open up the ring gap.

Would this still be considered for this race?
Being most of the time the factory gap works fine that mod could actually cost you power.


I think this is a cool deal, but do agree there should be a class for 3000lbs and over vs 2500lbs. It takes 200+HP more to push a 3000lb car mid 160mph vs a 2500lb car. Given the stock rods that bend at X amount of power the 3000lb car is at a major disadvantage. JMO.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 04:06 AM
  #102  
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The more rules you make the less cars will show unless it goes into their favor....I run 325 radials, but I'm only at 500hp and 4000 lbs so I have no dog in this fight.

There have never been any car rules in this stock shortblock record before now, it's just an Internet record anyways.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #103  
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Factory replacement pistons ok? . Stock compression, hyper pistons, etc.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Sarg
Factory replacement pistons ok? . Stock compression, hyper pistons, etc.
If not, then just go buy another one from the salvage yard. The great thing about these cheap engines.

They even switch out easy, most of the gaskets are reuseable, and those that aren't, are cheap, and easy to get.

I have had a harder time trying to find the right spark plug(colder NGK) in town, than most parts on these engines.

Last edited by atomic 6; Sep 28, 2011 at 11:35 AM.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #105  
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LOL... stock shortblocks and let them fly. Its been well said what I can prove and disprove with a 2mm borescope.

How would I know if you took an engine apart and put stock pistons right back in it. I can't tell. LOL.

Use common sense and there is no need for a devils advocate.

Heck someone COULD take the time to replicate the casting marks in a full forged set of pistons, sandblast the top for the "as-cast" look. Machine stamps and all. Get wild and crazy weighing and magnifluxing several sets of stock rods to get some with the most materials, hahaha an ole' "ringer" set.

If someone actually takes this fun competition THAT seriously... spends that much time and effort to cheat and most certainly and knowingly leave the spirit of the rules...

Well... more power to ya, Been alot more out of the box cheating in the headsup restricted engine combination classes ive been apart of. Nitrous fed into dummy BOV's from the "co2" boostcontroller tank. F1r's into f1c's with blank vinplates that shouldnt exist to the public. On and on. LOL, you have that much time and effort to cheat in a lowbuck fun class... just dont get caught and you can just burn in hell

hahaha thats my view on it. Lets just be realistic and have fun with it. Simple as that.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 12:01 PM
  #106  
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I suggested on the first page a limit of one engine per car, if this is a weekend deal. ie you dont want someone to show up with 8 $150 engines that only last two passes each.

rodbolts need to be stock for a truly stock bottom end. use any fastener on the top end.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #107  
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you could always throw in a short block "claimer" rule, to keep people honest. less cam.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 05:15 PM
  #108  
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I wish I could find several $150 engines! You guys must have them cheap out in Texas. Here one with low enough miles not to be absolutely worn out is $750+
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #109  
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What is worn out??

Our engines have been the cheapest we could find(90k +), and they are not breaking.

I even seen an aluminum 5.3 today in an Atlanta Salvage yard for a 1000 bucks, that is cheap.

I like the "claimer rule" but it would be hard to get everyone on board with that.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 07:41 PM
  #110  
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160+ or already with spun bearing, bad piston, etc. I am finding tons in the $750+ range that are good and running, but for less than that I can get stock replacement pistons and get it bored 20 over. Still looking for the above mentioned $150 motors, lol.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #111  
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look on car-part.com in your area.

i just did a search and I can pick up several 4.8s around here for $245-300. I think the price has gone up lol
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 07:45 PM
  #112  
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Thanks for the tip! I have just been checking on craigslist. Only ones on there are ones other people already got to cheap and marked up 100%
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 11:47 PM
  #113  
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Yup... car-part.com We have gotten 4 different complete 04-05 aluminum 5.3's from Trailblazer ext's for $650

Pickapart.com you can buy ANY engine you pull yourself for $150. They had several GMC vans with 6.0's complete with wiring harness... $150

Gotta know where to look.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #114  
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Wish I could make it, way way way too far for our budget. If any guys on the westcoast want to get down. let me know.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #115  
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Can I pull the crank out and have it double keyed?
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 12:29 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by turbodiesel
Again im open to all suggestions. I would like to get the final rules hammered down by Oct 31st. Halloween... should be easy enough to remember that date. There is 5 weeks to deliberate and come to a conclusion on the rules

This is a race that should drive competition, push limits and expectations, promote technical thinking, and open eyes to a fun time without a 100k car like is seen in most headsup series today.

Perhaps an "Outlaw stock" and "street stock" class?

Outlaw stock be the previous rules... anything goes.

Street stock requires 3200lbs (VERY typical weight in most headsup classes... VERY typical weight in most streetcars with stock suspension) and also keep some of the Outlaw guys from creeping in.

-Drag radial or DOT tire, max 275-60-15 or 28-12.50-15 (qtp or et street bias ply)

-Tag and Insured

-Stock style suspension only

-STILL any power adder open to compete.


I have a set of scales, as well as the track. So no issue there.


Ringgaps and other such "fine details"...

During inspection (because I tested it 30 mins ago on a 5.3 longblock at the shop) I can tell you if its a factory piston... a factory crank and rods... I cannot tell the rings, nor the gap, nor the bearings. Sorry guys, not a miracle worker and I want the inspection of the winners as painless and easy as possible.

Thusly... the rules follow what can be checked without a full teardown. Use your own discretion and own conscience. If you want the record make it legit to the world.

There are laws not to steal or murder... but people do it every second of the day and sadly some get away with it. It is the curse of human nature. Be RESPONSIBLE Just have fun guys
I will be there with a 3250 lb street car ready to compete if you do these rules and I believe there will be a much larger showing with a "street" class.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #117  
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You should update the first post with the new set of tentative rules, that way anyone who hasnt followed the thread and jump in a see where this is currently at without having to dig through everything
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by turbodiesel
Again im open to all suggestions. I would like to get the final rules hammered down by Oct 31st. Halloween... should be easy enough to remember that date. There is 5 weeks to deliberate and come to a conclusion on the rules

This is a race that should drive competition, push limits and expectations, promote technical thinking, and open eyes to a fun time without a 100k car like is seen in most headsup series today.

Perhaps an "Outlaw stock" and "street stock" class?

Outlaw stock be the previous rules... anything goes.

Street stock requires 3200lbs (VERY typical weight in most headsup classes... VERY typical weight in most streetcars with stock suspension) and also keep some of the Outlaw guys from creeping in.

-Drag radial or DOT tire, max 275-60-15 or 28-12.50-15 (qtp or et street bias ply)

-Tag and Insured

-Stock style suspension only

-STILL any power adder open to compete.


I have a set of scales, as well as the track. So no issue there.


Ringgaps and other such "fine details"...

During inspection (because I tested it 30 mins ago on a 5.3 longblock at the shop) I can tell you if its a factory piston... a factory crank and rods... I cannot tell the rings, nor the gap, nor the bearings. Sorry guys, not a miracle worker and I want the inspection of the winners as painless and easy as possible.

Thusly... the rules follow what can be checked without a full teardown. Use your own discretion and own conscience. If you want the record make it legit to the world.

There are laws not to steal or murder... but people do it every second of the day and sadly some get away with it. It is the curse of human nature. Be RESPONSIBLE Just have fun guys
I didn't see this before I posted; damn little slow phone. This is very fair.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 08:20 AM
  #119  
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Just more suggestions. Why not leave the class wide open with the exception of, It has to have an OEM rotating assembly and 2600 lb. mandatory weight limit. After all, realistically how many sub 2600 lb. legit budget built " the basis of the short block competition" cars are really out there? It will take a sub 1.40 to 1.30 sixty foot to win the prize anyway. If your car can or cannot reach this mark regardless of weight, you probably will not win the event, if you can keep it together. If you have a 3400 lb car that can 60 ft in these parameters your on target for a high to mid 8 second run which might make you a legit contender. It will come down to the best tune for your combination.
If you start making rules , then sub rules, then amendments to those rules etc., It will make many people loose interest.
When this was just an internet title," just show a video" everyone pretty much accepted Skinnies as the title holder, not a whole lot of whining about car weight, tire size etc. now that it has become a true physically "show up to race" event too many rules are now becoming a poison. Also nobody really complained too much about replacement rod bolts until now. I built my combination 2 years ago and replaced the bolts because I read on the internet this had to be done to make it live but I am not about to take those out and put some stockers back in, I'm out!. Just an example of meaningless bi- rules that will only hinder this event from ever happening.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #120  
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The rod bolt issue is stupid to complain about if you are okay with aftermarket head bolts. If you want a good head bolt so you lessen the chance of lifting a head why wouldnt you want a good rod bolt? I'd rather blow a head gasket than scatter the bottom end. Where is the logic?
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