How to get LQ4 to 8000rpm semi reliably?
10-17-2011, 11:07 AM
#21
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Yeah, you guys are right. Just swap out to the 3.54. Keep it simple. That is the highest gear I can get for the back until I do a diff swap. Currently I'm running an R200 diff.
I appreciate the comments and opinions, even though I seem to get agitated at people. I apologize for that. I guess I'm just not used to people not knowing my capabilities over here. On the Z forums lots of people know me and what I do. I'm just going to have to make a name for myself over here too.
To answer someones questions, currently I have one of the heaviest modified VG30E SOHC 3.0 V6 engines in the world in there right now, with custom this that and the other thing. Fully built of course. Running a custom 4 stage drysump. But I am just tired of trying to keep this small engine together when it is so easy to make gobs of power on a boosted LSX series engine. I am selling all of that, to pay for this build. I estimate about $8k to put a built Lq4 and built glide into my car. I already have the fuel pump run to make the power on E85.
Oh, and I already have a 99' Lq4 which you can sort of see in the back ground. I got some 317's for it and a Procomp 92mm manifold. Just gonna do the flipped truck manifolds like everyone else does, for now. Keeping my Borg Warner S375 turbo (probably have to get a larger A/R housing) and may need to spray a 100 shot (already have that too). I will wait and see what I can do on just the turbo first. 75mm should be able to get me 1000whp if I were at sea level, but I am about 6000 feet in the air so...
I appreciate the comments and opinions, even though I seem to get agitated at people. I apologize for that. I guess I'm just not used to people not knowing my capabilities over here. On the Z forums lots of people know me and what I do. I'm just going to have to make a name for myself over here too.
To answer someones questions, currently I have one of the heaviest modified VG30E SOHC 3.0 V6 engines in the world in there right now, with custom this that and the other thing. Fully built of course. Running a custom 4 stage drysump. But I am just tired of trying to keep this small engine together when it is so easy to make gobs of power on a boosted LSX series engine. I am selling all of that, to pay for this build. I estimate about $8k to put a built Lq4 and built glide into my car. I already have the fuel pump run to make the power on E85.
Oh, and I already have a 99' Lq4 which you can sort of see in the back ground. I got some 317's for it and a Procomp 92mm manifold. Just gonna do the flipped truck manifolds like everyone else does, for now. Keeping my Borg Warner S375 turbo (probably have to get a larger A/R housing) and may need to spray a 100 shot (already have that too). I will wait and see what I can do on just the turbo first. 75mm should be able to get me 1000whp if I were at sea level, but I am about 6000 feet in the air so...
Last edited by SATAN; 10-17-2011 at 11:16 AM.
10-17-2011, 01:15 PM
#24
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Yeah, that could definitely pose as a restriction then. I am sitting on a 83.5mm turbine wheel now with only a T4. May have to sell this turbo and jump on a T6 frame...
10-17-2011, 02:09 PM
#25
Or not go so big on the motor even though that turbo is still undersized even for a 364ci. Besides hating the 4" stroke for reliability reasons, it just isn't necessary to make the power number that you are after. All it really does is complicate everything. Being in the 4 cyl game, you know that ci isn't everything for making power with a turbo. I'd bet that that turbo you have would make more max power behind a 4.8 than a 6.7 liter. It would likely be more manageable on that light chassis as well.
10-17-2011, 02:53 PM
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K.I.S.S.
keep it simple, stupid. theres no need for 8k rpms. in fact, it defeats the idea behind a street turbo motor.
building a high rpm turbo motor is like dating a playboy model that doesnt put out, yet still empties your wallet. especially seeing as a you've got a simpler option, the horney girl next door who's hotter than the playboy model and doesnt even wanna go out.
if you were racing in a class that limits turbo size, CID, weight, etc this would be a different story.. but you're not. get the right gear, you'll be happy you did.
keep it simple, stupid. theres no need for 8k rpms. in fact, it defeats the idea behind a street turbo motor.
building a high rpm turbo motor is like dating a playboy model that doesnt put out, yet still empties your wallet. especially seeing as a you've got a simpler option, the horney girl next door who's hotter than the playboy model and doesnt even wanna go out.
if you were racing in a class that limits turbo size, CID, weight, etc this would be a different story.. but you're not. get the right gear, you'll be happy you did.
10-17-2011, 04:03 PM
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Or not go so big on the motor even though that turbo is still undersized even for a 364ci. Besides hating the 4" stroke for reliability reasons, it just isn't necessary to make the power number that you are after. All it really does is complicate everything. Being in the 4 cyl game, you know that ci isn't everything for making power with a turbo. I'd bet that that turbo you have would make more max power behind a 4.8 than a 6.7 liter. It would likely be more manageable on that light chassis as well.
I do need that much power for my 160+mph trap goal in a 3000lb car. Skinnies car weighs something retarded like 2400lbs.
10-17-2011, 05:41 PM
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Well, the car itself only weighs 2850 currently, It is pretty stripped though. I might be able to get another 150lbs out of it... Cut braces out of the doors, replace the glass with lexan. Pull the dash and have no dash. Pull the passenger seat.
Before anyone comments on it, the fuel system no longer resides in the hatch anymore. Now it is under the car.
Before anyone comments on it, the fuel system no longer resides in the hatch anymore. Now it is under the car.
10-17-2011, 09:13 PM
#33
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LOL, yes and no.
It is a surge tank. For those who don't know what a surge tank is, here is how mine is/was set up.
Walbro 255 intank. This feeds into a 1 gallon surge tank (that you see in that pic). From the bottom of that tank my big pump which was a magnafuel 625 ( now is a magnafuel pro tuner) pulls fuel and sends it to the rails. Whatever fuel did not get used at the injectors, goes through the regulator and goes back into the surge tank. When the surge tank cannot get anymore full, there is a return line at the top of the surge tank that goes back to the main tank.
This set up allways keeps fuel at the big pump and I would never suck air. However, NHRA obviously frowns upon having fuel lines and what not in your hatch...
Here is a better picture of what is/was going on.
It is a surge tank. For those who don't know what a surge tank is, here is how mine is/was set up.
Walbro 255 intank. This feeds into a 1 gallon surge tank (that you see in that pic). From the bottom of that tank my big pump which was a magnafuel 625 ( now is a magnafuel pro tuner) pulls fuel and sends it to the rails. Whatever fuel did not get used at the injectors, goes through the regulator and goes back into the surge tank. When the surge tank cannot get anymore full, there is a return line at the top of the surge tank that goes back to the main tank.
This set up allways keeps fuel at the big pump and I would never suck air. However, NHRA obviously frowns upon having fuel lines and what not in your hatch...
Here is a better picture of what is/was going on.
Nobody said anything about fuel going thru a radiator.
10-18-2011, 01:02 AM
#37
LOL, yes and no.
It is a surge tank. For those who don't know what a surge tank is, here is how mine is/was set up.
Walbro 255 intank. This feeds into a 1 gallon surge tank (that you see in that pic). From the bottom of that tank my big pump which was a magnafuel 625 ( now is a magnafuel pro tuner) pulls fuel and sends it to the rails. Whatever fuel did not get used at the injectors, goes through the regulator and goes back into the surge tank. When the surge tank cannot get anymore full, there is a return line at the top of the surge tank that goes back to the main tank.
This set up allways keeps fuel at the big pump and I would never suck air. However, NHRA obviously frowns upon having fuel lines and what not in your hatch...
Here is a better picture of what is/was going on.
It is a surge tank. For those who don't know what a surge tank is, here is how mine is/was set up.
Walbro 255 intank. This feeds into a 1 gallon surge tank (that you see in that pic). From the bottom of that tank my big pump which was a magnafuel 625 ( now is a magnafuel pro tuner) pulls fuel and sends it to the rails. Whatever fuel did not get used at the injectors, goes through the regulator and goes back into the surge tank. When the surge tank cannot get anymore full, there is a return line at the top of the surge tank that goes back to the main tank.
This set up allways keeps fuel at the big pump and I would never suck air. However, NHRA obviously frowns upon having fuel lines and what not in your hatch...
Here is a better picture of what is/was going on.
10-18-2011, 01:07 AM
#38
I'm running 8.9 @ 153 @ 3900#'s with a t4 PT88 turbo that is chocking out on the exhaust side. If I could shed 900#'s I'd be peeling off easy 8.4's I would think.
10-18-2011, 06:13 AM
#40
This is ultimate346 setup pretty simple with a precision 91mm. He now runs a 6.0 as his probe pistons failed. I know he drives this on the street and had been 8.2 over 172 mph at Denver (over 7k DA).
- Iron 5300 block, bored to 99mm (stock is 96) Eagle 3.622 crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, Probe reverse-dome pistons, Total Seal AP convential top rings
- All Pro 64 cc CNC chamber LS heads, Ferrea Super Alloy 1.6 ex valves, Ferrea 6000 Series 2.02 intakes, K-Motion springs 180# seat, Manley Ti retainers
- Cammotion custom turbo cam 246/240 @ 0.050, 0.390/0.380 lobe lift, 115 LDA, Caddy CTS-V lifters from GMPP (CTS-V "R" new real high RPM hydralic rollers), Comp Stainless 1.75 rockers, Cloyes chain, Melling oil pump
- Wilson 105mm TB, Wilson 90 degree elbow, Edelbrock Victor Jr EFI manifold 4150 base
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQ263...el_video_title
- Iron 5300 block, bored to 99mm (stock is 96) Eagle 3.622 crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, Probe reverse-dome pistons, Total Seal AP convential top rings
- All Pro 64 cc CNC chamber LS heads, Ferrea Super Alloy 1.6 ex valves, Ferrea 6000 Series 2.02 intakes, K-Motion springs 180# seat, Manley Ti retainers
- Cammotion custom turbo cam 246/240 @ 0.050, 0.390/0.380 lobe lift, 115 LDA, Caddy CTS-V lifters from GMPP (CTS-V "R" new real high RPM hydralic rollers), Comp Stainless 1.75 rockers, Cloyes chain, Melling oil pump
- Wilson 105mm TB, Wilson 90 degree elbow, Edelbrock Victor Jr EFI manifold 4150 base
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQ263...el_video_title
Last edited by Nitroused383; 10-18-2011 at 06:21 AM.