How to get LQ4 to 8000rpm semi reliably?
#41
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This is ultimate346 setup pretty simple with a precision 91mm. He now runs a 6.0 as his probe pistons failed. I know he drives this on the street and had been 8.2 over 172 mph at Denver (over 7k DA).
- Iron 5300 block, bored to 99mm (stock is 96) Eagle 3.622 crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, Probe reverse-dome pistons, Total Seal AP convential top rings
- All Pro 64 cc CNC chamber LS heads, Ferrea Super Alloy 1.6 ex valves, Ferrea 6000 Series 2.02 intakes, K-Motion springs 180# seat, Manley Ti retainers
- Cammotion custom turbo cam 246/240 @ 0.050, 0.390/0.380 lobe lift, 115 LDA, Caddy CTS-V lifters from GMPP (CTS-V "R" new real high RPM hydralic rollers), Comp Stainless 1.75 rockers, Cloyes chain, Melling oil pump
- Iron 5300 block, bored to 99mm (stock is 96) Eagle 3.622 crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, Probe reverse-dome pistons, Total Seal AP convential top rings
- All Pro 64 cc CNC chamber LS heads, Ferrea Super Alloy 1.6 ex valves, Ferrea 6000 Series 2.02 intakes, K-Motion springs 180# seat, Manley Ti retainers
- Cammotion custom turbo cam 246/240 @ 0.050, 0.390/0.380 lobe lift, 115 LDA, Caddy CTS-V lifters from GMPP (CTS-V "R" new real high RPM hydralic rollers), Comp Stainless 1.75 rockers, Cloyes chain, Melling oil pump
#42
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Do you guys read anything? Or do you just look at the pretty pictures and post retarded comments just to get your .02 in? I explained what a surge tank is what what is going on in the picture. It's a reading thing....
Cobrakiller- The fuel setup now, no longer consists of a surge tank setup. Now I just run an 8 gallon fuel cell with has a built in sump. Remember the comment posted earlier K.I.S.S.? Well that is what I did with my fuel system.
Cobrakiller- The fuel setup now, no longer consists of a surge tank setup. Now I just run an 8 gallon fuel cell with has a built in sump. Remember the comment posted earlier K.I.S.S.? Well that is what I did with my fuel system.
#44
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This is ultimate346 setup pretty simple with a precision 91mm. He now runs a 6.0 as his probe pistons failed. I know he drives this on the street and had been 8.2 over 172 mph at Denver (over 7k DA).
- Iron 5300 block, bored to 99mm (stock is 96) Eagle 3.622 crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, Probe reverse-dome pistons, Total Seal AP convential top rings
- All Pro 64 cc CNC chamber LS heads, Ferrea Super Alloy 1.6 ex valves, Ferrea 6000 Series 2.02 intakes, K-Motion springs 180# seat, Manley Ti retainers
- Cammotion custom turbo cam 246/240 @ 0.050, 0.390/0.380 lobe lift, 115 LDA, Caddy CTS-V lifters from GMPP (CTS-V "R" new real high RPM hydralic rollers), Comp Stainless 1.75 rockers, Cloyes chain, Melling oil pump
- Wilson 105mm TB, Wilson 90 degree elbow, Edelbrock Victor Jr EFI manifold 4150 base
- Iron 5300 block, bored to 99mm (stock is 96) Eagle 3.622 crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, Probe reverse-dome pistons, Total Seal AP convential top rings
- All Pro 64 cc CNC chamber LS heads, Ferrea Super Alloy 1.6 ex valves, Ferrea 6000 Series 2.02 intakes, K-Motion springs 180# seat, Manley Ti retainers
- Cammotion custom turbo cam 246/240 @ 0.050, 0.390/0.380 lobe lift, 115 LDA, Caddy CTS-V lifters from GMPP (CTS-V "R" new real high RPM hydralic rollers), Comp Stainless 1.75 rockers, Cloyes chain, Melling oil pump
- Wilson 105mm TB, Wilson 90 degree elbow, Edelbrock Victor Jr EFI manifold 4150 base
#46
9 Second Club
I'm not knocking when I say this. But I would not be using that hardline alloy tubing.
At random it has sprung a leak on mine. And mine is properly supported with rubber lined P clips aver 10-12" or so.
I used Russells brand, and pin holes just appeared for no reason whatsoever. Although oddly, both times the holes appeared right at a P-clip.
At random it has sprung a leak on mine. And mine is properly supported with rubber lined P clips aver 10-12" or so.
I used Russells brand, and pin holes just appeared for no reason whatsoever. Although oddly, both times the holes appeared right at a P-clip.
#47
The reason I put this in forced induction, is because I need 8000rpm to trap in the 160mph range and this will be a turbo LQ4 to achieve that.
8000rpm
26" tire (bigger wont fit without rear end mods)
Powerglide with 3.7:1 diff
8000rpm = 167mph
7500rpm = 157mph
If I switch to a 3.54 diff, then I get...
7500rpm = 164mph
8000rpm = 175mph
F
8000rpm
26" tire (bigger wont fit without rear end mods)
Powerglide with 3.7:1 diff
8000rpm = 167mph
7500rpm = 157mph
If I switch to a 3.54 diff, then I get...
7500rpm = 164mph
8000rpm = 175mph
F
where are you finding a powerglide with a lockup converter??
#50
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I can attest for "Satan's" building greatness and awesome skills over at z31performance.com
I to am a forum member over there and am in the process of doing sort of the same build but not as big and pretty damn simple
Consists of my $123 04 4.8L, HX55 turbo, th350, custom q45(3.54), z32TT and s13 rear end, there are other parts I have but I just don't feel like listing them all, I basically just plan on slapping all these parts together with a good tune and see how fast I can get my 86 300zx to go!
I to am a forum member over there and am in the process of doing sort of the same build but not as big and pretty damn simple
Consists of my $123 04 4.8L, HX55 turbo, th350, custom q45(3.54), z32TT and s13 rear end, there are other parts I have but I just don't feel like listing them all, I basically just plan on slapping all these parts together with a good tune and see how fast I can get my 86 300zx to go!
#51
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With the torque an 364+ ci LSX makes with a turbo hanging of the front there isn't a reason to turn 8,000rpm unless you are required to by some sort of class restriction. I understand you aren't new to drag racing by any means but you are going to have a hard time keeping the tires planted as it is. A taller gear will only help. It's going to help the launch, your trap speed, and your engine (by keeping the RPM's down.) I'm planning on about the same power level as you are with a redline closer to 6800rpm. What I'm saying is that kind of RPM isn't necessary. You might as well build it like everyone else going fast is suggesting and mail me a check for the amount of money you saved.
Hell some of the Drag Radial guys are running a tall gear with a tall first in their glides with a very tight converter and still turn 1.3x 60's on a radial with 180+ traps out the back at 500lbs heavier than you. I understand what you want, I just think you should go the opposite direction to attain it. The hornet's nest you stirred up isn't really a hornet's nest, it's frustration taking the shape of words on a screen. Some people have a hard time explaining why something is better choice.
There is a lot of knowledge floating around in this section. It's hard to sift through some of the B.S. on occasion but that's the internet for you.
#52
haha, i said it as sarcasm since the the OP isn't accounting for any converter slip
but it is cool to know there is something like that out there
lol, i want to go the other way...... turn it less...... i am going from a 3.27 to a 2.73
but it is cool to know there is something like that out there
lol, i want to go the other way...... turn it less...... i am going from a 3.27 to a 2.73
#54
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The Q45 comes with an R200, but it is a short nose R200. The only thing I would be able to use, is the ring gear. The pinion would be too short for my case.
I'm not knocking when I say this. But I would not be using that hardline alloy tubing.
At random it has sprung a leak on mine. And mine is properly supported with rubber lined P clips aver 10-12" or so.
I used Russells brand, and pin holes just appeared for no reason whatsoever. Although oddly, both times the holes appeared right at a P-clip.
At random it has sprung a leak on mine. And mine is properly supported with rubber lined P clips aver 10-12" or so.
I used Russells brand, and pin holes just appeared for no reason whatsoever. Although oddly, both times the holes appeared right at a P-clip.
#55
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I appreciate the knowledge you guys have about these engines. You are my go to guys on this stuff.
You don't have to be concerned about me trying to spin the engine to 8,000rpms anymore.
You don't have to be concerned about me trying to spin the engine to 8,000rpms anymore.
#56
you know what is funny.... after looking at your fuel setup i realized something
that I am the guy who bought your magnafuel 4301 ffrom you off some other forum.... lol
two years no problems with it, haha
that I am the guy who bought your magnafuel 4301 ffrom you off some other forum.... lol
two years no problems with it, haha
#57
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My forged piston and rod stock bore 6.0 with stock lifters and rockers made it a few years at the track at 7500-8100rpm trap rpm, 8100 on nitrous. It let a rod bolt go at ls fest, cheap rod bolts. I was on the ragged edge. Funny thing is, valvetrain was still tip top shape
BUT...boost is a diff ball game. I'd stuff a tire under it first, look at a 275/60/15 hoosier, they seem to be compact for a "28" in tire
BUT...boost is a diff ball game. I'd stuff a tire under it first, look at a 275/60/15 hoosier, they seem to be compact for a "28" in tire
#58
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Don't change it if u don't have to.
Regards,
Kurt
#59
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http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...=312&top_cat=1
Don't change it if u don't have to.
Regards,
Kurt
Don't change it if u don't have to.
Regards,
Kurt
#60