HELP with 8 Rib Procharger Pinning Kit
HELP with 8 Rib Procharger Pinning Kit Ok guys, I purchased a Procharger D1SC 8 rib front mount kit from Bob @ Brutespeed....whom is a must for all your FI needs. Anyways...I have been searching around and found no real proof of an install on this particular kit. I have seen pics of other installs such as magnacharger, vortech, and pin kits for sale, but no real evidence or information the goes into detail about what needs to be done and what the best way to do it is. So far I understand that its to keep the pulley from spinning on the crank....its basically saying that the solid pins help keep it planted when the crank comes up under drastic load changes. I also know that the ATI kit is done with the pulley removed etc......what i dont understand is all this snorkel and dowl talk. Just show me a picture of where to drill and ill drill it. I am told that even taking my time this is a 30 min process. Other than this the install should be a breeze. An easy way to explain to me is using clocked positions for the drilling points. I will be using a 10 bolt lithium Makita that is brand new.
http://www.byunspeed.com/images/ATI918993.jpg
the fixture slides over the end of the crank with the ATI balancer off. there is a hole on the side of the fixture where you put the supplied drill bit guide. insert the guide, and drill away. keep it lubed, it takes awhile to drill through. the crank is very hard. once its drilled, tap in the pin wuth a hammer just far enough so ur ati balancer that is notched will slide over the pin. Just like it had a keyway make sense?
the fixture slides over the end of the crank with the ATI balancer off. there is a hole on the side of the fixture where you put the supplied drill bit guide. insert the guide, and drill away. keep it lubed, it takes awhile to drill through. the crank is very hard. once its drilled, tap in the pin wuth a hammer just far enough so ur ati balancer that is notched will slide over the pin. Just like it had a keyway make sense?
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
From: Uniontown,pa
Here's a link to the one I bought from Bob. It mounts on the the crank with the ati balancer in place as you can see in the pics on the page.
Jason
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-3GKMM...-3GKMM-004.htm
Jason
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-3GKMM...-3GKMM-004.htm
cool. thanks allout06. i know you just got thru with yours....that 571rwhp pull was shweet. i am kief4diamonds on youtube. and you spanked that bike. brianwrightws6 is getting his tuned friday and should be at the track on sunday with videos posted. I hope to see more vids of yours...especially to see what the BOV sounds like. I fully understand where the pin goes and what it does now. the ati pin kit basically makes it idiot proof it seems....i just figured that i couldnt be too careful when drilling holes in the crank. haha.
.i however wonder if its best to put just one...or if i should put two pins in....i guess one will be fine and if it shears off ill replace it and add another. ill keep it lubed for sure...thanks alot. the rear is dropped now and im installing the hotwire kit and racetronix which is top notch stuff...i added the extra option for the booster in case i make too much hp. right now i am looking for that damn adapter to attatch the -4an valve to the fuel sending unit for my pillar mounted fuel pressure gauge. i need a -4an to 1/8. its a glowsport fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi. i have to say i thought i was going cheap on gauges but they have turned out to be very good products and im not just saying that. i however did go with the propsport evo wideband gauge. if you guys have any other information about what to do and not to do let me know. i am doing the install myself not only because i want to save money....but because i want the knowledge and reassurance that it was done as good as it could be. so far im almost into the 10k dollar range with my FI needs. and rear end and trans and forging is still left to boot. haha. i love it though. to hell with smack.
.i however wonder if its best to put just one...or if i should put two pins in....i guess one will be fine and if it shears off ill replace it and add another. ill keep it lubed for sure...thanks alot. the rear is dropped now and im installing the hotwire kit and racetronix which is top notch stuff...i added the extra option for the booster in case i make too much hp. right now i am looking for that damn adapter to attatch the -4an valve to the fuel sending unit for my pillar mounted fuel pressure gauge. i need a -4an to 1/8. its a glowsport fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi. i have to say i thought i was going cheap on gauges but they have turned out to be very good products and im not just saying that. i however did go with the propsport evo wideband gauge. if you guys have any other information about what to do and not to do let me know. i am doing the install myself not only because i want to save money....but because i want the knowledge and reassurance that it was done as good as it could be. so far im almost into the 10k dollar range with my FI needs. and rear end and trans and forging is still left to boot. haha. i love it though. to hell with smack.
The pin acts as a key since LSx engines dont come with one
Position doesnt matter, one or two is up to you. Personal preference, but Id suggest ditching the pin they send and cutting the shaft off a 1/4 drill bit. Hardened tool steel is stronger than the stuff they send
Position doesnt matter, one or two is up to you. Personal preference, but Id suggest ditching the pin they send and cutting the shaft off a 1/4 drill bit. Hardened tool steel is stronger than the stuff they send
thanks allout06. i know you just got thru with yours....that 571rwhp pull was shweet. i am kief4diamonds on youtube. and you spanked that bike. brianwrightws6 is getting his tuned friday and should be at the track on sunday with videos posted. I hope to see more vids of yours...especially to see what the BOV sounds like. I fully understand where the pin goes and what it does now. the ati pin kit basically makes it idiot proof it seems....i just figured that i couldnt be too careful when drilling holes in the crank. haha.
.i however wonder if its best to put just one...or if i should put two pins in....i guess one will be fine and if it shears off ill replace it and add another. ill keep it lubed for sure...thanks alot. the rear is dropped now and im installing the hotwire kit and racetronix which is top notch stuff...i added the extra option for the booster in case i make too much hp. right now i am looking for that damn adapter to attatch the -4an valve to the fuel sending unit for my pillar mounted fuel pressure gauge. i need a -4an to 1/8. its a glowsport fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi. i have to say i thought i was going cheap on gauges but they have turned out to be very good products and im not just saying that. i however did go with the propsport evo wideband gauge. if you guys have any other information about what to do and not to do let me know. i am doing the install myself not only because i want to save money....but because i want the knowledge and reassurance that it was done as good as it could be. so far im almost into the 10k dollar range with my FI needs. and rear end and trans and forging is still left to boot. haha. i love it though. to hell with smack.
.i however wonder if its best to put just one...or if i should put two pins in....i guess one will be fine and if it shears off ill replace it and add another. ill keep it lubed for sure...thanks alot. the rear is dropped now and im installing the hotwire kit and racetronix which is top notch stuff...i added the extra option for the booster in case i make too much hp. right now i am looking for that damn adapter to attatch the -4an valve to the fuel sending unit for my pillar mounted fuel pressure gauge. i need a -4an to 1/8. its a glowsport fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi. i have to say i thought i was going cheap on gauges but they have turned out to be very good products and im not just saying that. i however did go with the propsport evo wideband gauge. if you guys have any other information about what to do and not to do let me know. i am doing the install myself not only because i want to save money....but because i want the knowledge and reassurance that it was done as good as it could be. so far im almost into the 10k dollar range with my FI needs. and rear end and trans and forging is still left to boot. haha. i love it though. to hell with smack.
when i did my pump, i did the trap door way. i wasnt about to drop the damn tank lol. And if i need an upgrade later, ill just do a lnnies dual fuel pump kit, or make my own.
Are you forging ur motor now? You have a D1 correct? if you plan on going over 600rwhp, id go ahead and add a boost-a-pump, youll probably need it. what size injectors did ya go with go? HP goals? good luck! and make a build thread!
id def do a FMIC too!!
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Verdad Gallardo i went with the 60#. a little research showed me that most people were running out of injectors with the 42's and the 60's really allowed for room to grow. right now my goals are to make the stock bottom end survive as long as possible by constantly running 100% methanol and getting the absolute best tune possible. I want to cut into the tank for ease later on down the road, but there are two reasons i dont think i should....#1 being i wonder if theres any garbage down there floating around...and number 2.....how in the hell did you get your racetronix harness on without dropping that tank? did you just feed it thru? wtf...ahhaa. you may change my mind. but yeah....next year i plan on taking the motor out and spenind a month taking it apart and forging it possibly with chris from ECS or Revkajxx on youtube.....i want to go with diamonds with coated skirt and h beams and cleavites etc....ill probably just have the crank balanced. i have no desire to deviate from stock cubes. but compression will be around 9:5 and boost will go up to around 14-15lbs and then ill begin working on appearance such as a new paint job and having the seats wrapped in red n black leather and adding new speakers in existing speaker holes and maybe a small 10" sub thats easily removed for track purposes....cuz this car has no bass whatsoever...and i like rock/metal/hip hop so.....but yeah the road to 600rwhp is one thing....700rwhp is another one entirely. we start getting into fuel line capability and will have to add a booster to that fuel pump and that cant really be trusted so itll be time to contact lonnie and send him a sending unit and have him assemble them *****.
Ok so ur goals and my goals are damn near the same lol. The way I did my hot wire kit is I routed it straight back and down from the hole I cut. I ran it under the carpet where it slopes Down into the cubby in the hatch area then over to the drivers side under the plastic paneling where the speakers are. Then ran it under the trim by the drivers seat and up through the drivers side of the firewall. I cut a hole between the brake boost and the hoo latch cables. I also plan on forging mine next year. Maybe send it off to tsp or just buy a short block from them. I would do it myself but I don't have the dial calipers and tooling for checking proper clearances and I don't wanna use plasti-gauge. But I plan on maxing out the D1. Hope b around 750rwhp
Thanks, I really appreciate it! Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
