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Put my car on the rollers today, timing/plug question

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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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Default Put my car on the rollers today, timing/plug question

Got bored and dynoed my car at the shop today since I havent put my car on it yet. We have an Mustang AWD-500 Dyno here at SS Performance Group. Normally I do all street/track tuning adjustments

Basic rundown of the setup:
Stock shortblock w/ 110k miles
Stock 317 heads with Patriot Dual Springs
LS6 Cam
Truck manifold turbo setup with a TC76 at 10#'s, Ebay intercooler, etc etc
Fuel is single intank 255 with a hotwire kit and 60# injectors

Good news is the car made corrected 575 rwhp and 601 ftlbs and backed it up with a 578 rwhp and 595 ftlbs. Uncorrected was 600 rwhp and 627 ftlbs.

Bad news is the car pulled 2-3 degrees at approx 4100 rpm on the first pulls, and when I pulled that out of the timing table, it pulled it at 5100 on the next pull. This is odd because it has NEVER knocked on the street or track over the past two years even in the dead of summer. WOT timing was at 15 degrees. I pulled 2 degrees out between 3800-5200 be safe until I can do some hwy pulls to verify what is going on. Might have been vibration or a extra load on it from the eddy on the dyno.

Currently I've been running TR6's gapped at .032 which I change approx every 1000-1500 miles because I have never had a timing issue. Would there be a benefit to jumping to a BR7EF? I really didnt expect to see any knock on the dyno cause it never knocks on the street and the weather is nice and cold today, but I know I'm pushing this motor hard so I want to make sure it stays happy.

Thanks

Last edited by Tally TransAm; Nov 11, 2011 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 02:54 PM
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so it has 13 degrees.....when in knocks? To me thats a lot....Im ussually at 11-12 at 4000-4400 then bring the timing back in....to 14-17 depending on conditions.

I run autolite 103's t .025-.028, change them once a year or so.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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I would go to 7s for sure. I had similar problems with 6s years ago and started running a 7 and haven't looked back. I've seen zero negative effects from stepping colder.

What was the AFR like throughout the pull? And what fuel are you using? Sounds like it knocked at peak torque?

In my experience, Mustang dynos seem to push the car harder than the street does. So that makes sense to me.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1320
so it has 13 degrees.....when in knocks? To me thats a lot....Im ussually at 11-12 at 4000-4400 then bring the timing back in....to 14-17 depending on conditions.

I run autolite 103's t .025-.028, change them once a year or so.
was at 15 degrees and saw knock, dropped it to 13 now between 3800-5200 then back up to 15. I just find it weird since it never knocks, street, track, dynojet, even our dyno when it was one there during setup for testing purposes.

Originally Posted by HydroStream6
I would go to 7s for sure. I had similar problems with 6s years ago and started running a 7 and haven't looked back. I've seen zero negative effects from stepping colder.

What was the AFR like throughout the pull? And what fuel are you using? Sounds like it knocked at peak torque?

In my experience, Mustang dynos seem to push the car harder than the street does. So that makes sense to me.
AF is 11.0 on the dyno. street/track pulls usually see 10.7-10.8. Using 93 pump. The first time it knocked below peak torque, when I pulled timing there it knocked a little right at peak torque on the next pull so I pulled it there as well.

I agree on the loading, our dyno definitely hits the car harder than the street does.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Yea even the AFR shows how the dyno is working it harder. Without meth or E85/race gas I wouldn't push the timing with a stock LS1 short block. Try the plugs since it's a cheap change. Out of the box gap is fine on BR7EFs. If that doesn't help, you may just be stuck with the timing where it's at unless you give her some better fuel.
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