cometic lsx reseal question
additionally i made a pass after it pushed and had to get out of it, the pass it pushed water it started at 180* coolant temp and was at 215* by time i was back in the pits. i started the next pass 45mins later at 190* and it rose 15* to 205*, but it wasnt a full pass.
lsx block 6 bolt, 1/2 studs torqued to 105lbs.
cometic gaskets
E85, 24psi, 11.8 a/f
101mm turbo
1. you pushed water
2. they were torqued to 105lbs.
if you were to tear engine down to make some changes and hadnt had any water issues and were torqued at a lower rate than I would say yes.
I have re-used them, but only cause I was pulling heads to replace some bad valves. Originally torqued at 80lbs. so......
cleaned and inspected gaskets for defects
heated gaskets up w/ propane torch to get them to expand a lil bit
re-assembled and torqued to 85lbs. ran it for 2yrs. w/out any problems
i wouldnt think the 6 bolt would push water at 1200ish hp. but with a bad tun anything is possible.
automagicls1- what fuel are you running?
20* would not scare me on that setup with an intercooler as long as there was plenty of fuel. I would be targeting in the .72 range.
Run a compression and leak down on it, at least get an idea of the shape the gaskets are in.
That has to be caused by whoever has programmed the ecu.
As for seeing 24psi when you wanted 18psi, why no overboost protection ?
And generally speaking. If a gasket lets go due to excessive timing, which often will cause some detonation, although depends how much leeway you have with fuel/CR etc, then yes the gaskets will have warped like a banana and must be replaced.
it's handy to add a pressure sensor into the expansion tank on the cooling system to monitor HG integrity during/after racing to see if they are leaking at all.
Or in the most simplest form, stick a boost gauge onto it so you can see it.
Having big studs to clamp everything down can almost mask a blown head gasket with MLS gaskets, but they will still be blown.
i wouldnt think the 6 bolt would push water at 1200ish hp. but with a bad tun anything is possible.
automagicls1- what fuel are you running?
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as for the timing, bs3 was set at 353* for the crank trigger reference, verifed it with the timing light, went to the track and made a pass, checked the plugs and it looked hot. went through the tune and the reference was at 343. it was odd, its happend twice before and i caught it once.
ill make some passes next weekend to see, the new 106 will be here
im not the only one that has issues. id like to sell the BS3, and go with a distributor and carb. then i know i have control over the fuel and spark.
Be they a full on boost cut if the limit is exceeded, or heavily overfuel/retarded timing so it goes totally flat should your normal safe boost be exceeded.
Obviously the first method is preferred, although the latter means the engine will still run and make decent power as opposed to cutting out
Be they a full on boost cut if the limit is exceeded, or heavily overfuel/retarded timing so it goes totally flat should your normal safe boost be exceeded.
Obviously the first method is preferred, although the latter means the engine will still run and make decent power as opposed to cutting out
But would be better to drop in stages, as interpolation will take place between load cells.
So if 20psi was the absolute max you see on a safe run, and not a bit more. You could do a row at 21psi just in case, and then at 22psi have it as the failsafe.
Not much odds over 20-22psi though
But a full overboost cut at say 23psi would still be a wise precaution if the engine is tuned on the very edge.
As pulling timing and adding fuel would struggle for example if the w/g failed and caused overboost. Or a w/g pipe came off and caused overboost. No amount of safe overfuel or safe retarding of the timing will save that.
Sort out your boost control system, and sort of some safety features so it cannot happen again.
Ive never used BS3, but every aftermarket ecu I have used has a safety overboost cut feature that totally cuts fuel in the event of an overboost. Virtually all OEM turbo car makers operate in the same way.
Well, 3 things....pull the heads and check/replace the head gaskets.
And as said, it can be helpful to monitor pressure in the cooling system as well.


