killernoodle

Honestly it was just a guess. I'm not a metallurgist either, but the seat has the same look and feel as a file, so I dunno. It is definitely not stainless, so it is either mild steel or some kind of weird alloy. I'll try to cut it with a file tonight and see if it acts like hardened steel.

Rogue Status

iTrader: (1)

Seen it happen to a Tial, friend had a 44mm wastegate on a 650whp VW that boke at the base of the valve stem. The valve head didn't come off but could pivot and rotate on the stem. Video of said car is on YouTube, search Haenszel, they dyno video is from ISP in Maryland and the track footage is from MIR.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

How about a Tial that right out of the box with the heaviest spring will not stay closed during idle and vacuum situations? Call Tial tech support and they recommend a 1/4" washer from the hardware store....

No company is perfect. You can have issues with anything. I personally like Tial products in general and we have used them on many cars without issue for the most part. But I wanted to see how one of these ebay wastegates worked for my self. The company distributing the ones I bought seems to be a quite large company in China.

killernoodle

If the head of the valve snaps off at the stem, how do you suppose it got past the valve seat? On every wastegate I've ever seen, the valve is larger in diamter than the seat (it has to be) and open inward, so there is literally no way it could fall into the exhaust. Worst thing that happens is you can't make any boost and you need to get a new wastegate.

SATAN

iTrader: (2)

I agree with this. However, I will take it one step further, but in the opposite direction. If you are not using corrosion/rust resisting materials... Condensation can form in your exhaust after a cool down (ever seen brake rotors rust in just one day?). This in turn can cause the valve to rust shut to the valve seat. Or maybe the stem of the valve can rust creating too much friction for the valve to open into the valve guide.

This (or a diaphragm failure) is the only way I could see an OVER boost situation occurring from waste gate failure. That being said, it would have to rust pretty damn bad in a very short amount of time in order for that to happen.

I run ebay waste gates and blow off valves, always have. I catch **** for it here and there, but I'm not paying $400+ for something as simple as a valve. I have never once had a problem related to running cheapo waste gates in 10 years of using them. That doesn't mean I recommend them though. Who knows, I may blow a motor next week because of one. Maybe that will change my mind...

killernoodle

With all the soot buildup inside an exhaust system (and oil residue) I don't really see the wastegate's valve somehow rusting to the seat. Also, the valve is stainless, so it should be resistant to rust.

ssinister550

iTrader: (8)

I work with TONS of offshore powerboat cylinder heads, and with saltwater running through the exhaust and reversion and such, there's an almost unbelievable amount of saltwater introduced into the exhaust ports and combustion chamber and you wouldn't believe how rusty and corroded the valves and seats can get over one short season let alone two or three seasons if the customer runs it that long before a freshen, and they never come even close to "rusting shut". I understand you were exaggerating the idea to entertain worst case scenarios, and valves in cylinder heads are mechanically opened instead of pneumatically if you will, such as in a wastegate, but i don't ever see that being a possibility unless it sat at the bottom of the ocean for decades lol.


cheers to that my friend

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

any clue if that emusa BOV will work with a standard tial 50mm flange?

ssinister550

iTrader: (8)

Well I've had my emusa gate on my car for about a month now and works every bit as good as the Tial I had on my last car. As for the provided springs, as tested on the dyno the small spring made 4 psi and the big one made 7 on my setup. Haven't tested both yet.

ricky6991

Exactly, post is just going to lead to everyone going back an forth over if their ebay works the same or not. Cant just look at a part unless your very experienced and know what your looking at. Chinese stuff is copies. Not just hand draw copies but they take a object and make a same exact looking copy of it but with cheesy parts an thats why its so cheap. The majority of reason why good products are not cheap is because they are SUPPOSED to stand up to what its made for. Yes there is issues sometimes with every product but there is a reason majority of threads are about ebay products. Majority of issues comes from the cheaper products.

Prime example is turbo manifolds for 300zx. Many of you might not be familiar but i am cause i work on them everyday. The turbo manifolds are literally almost against the heads and are crazy small. So obviously they are put through more stress from heat cycling. Well to get to the point a company called ams came out with their brand manifolds which are an exact copy of the good ones. Difference is what material they made them from. Since its a motor pull and major part of a working car that material makes a difference. In the pic you see it "looks" the same but will not hold up to the heat and stress.

No this is not same ams with the good fast cars. http://ams-pirates.com/ our croud takes it alittle personal cause there is only so many individuals to make new products left. One day when everyone goes for the cheap stuff an there is noone good manufacturer left i bet ppl realize then. Imagine you personally putting tons of hrs and money as a side gig to help out the small community and some *** buys your item and makes an EXACT looking one but with diff name and sells for half the price. They can because they dont care if it cracks month down the road cause your paying the labor to exchange. They give you new one cause they make 400% profit off a product. You may say oh well thats buisness BUT not that guy who made it from scratch refuses to design anything else.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

well, im gonna try out one of these Wyntonm 44mm wastegate with a 4psi spring. see how it does.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

well heres what my cheapt wyntonm 44mm wastegate looks like. I got a 4an banjo adaptor to run a 4an line
i took it apart to see inside. Has 3 rings inside to run different sized springs a tthe same time for different spring levels.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Odd I guess I had a previous generation of that wastegate. It was literally identical to the Tial 44mm wastegates I had laying around the shop down to the box.

a4ls2goat

I'm running both, the emusa wastegate and bov on my setup.

Never had a problem with either.
I can lower my boost to about 12psi on the lowest setting,this is with the 38mm wastegate, also the WG placement isn't the best.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

the only thing i was wondering is i noticed that the travel path for valve isnt very far inside. i was wondering how far simular tial wastegates travel up into the wastegate. i mean it travel enough to relieve pressure since it goes up about an 1-1/2" by hand. its only a 4psi spring so its not gonna be much to push this lol

I also noticed that it has a silicon type diaphram that is very flexible. Id image on a high heat front mount that wouldnt last all that long lol but on a rear mount the hear range is no where near that so im not too worried about it for now. im wondering if a tial 44mm diapham will fit inside of it.

Third Honk

Did a search and seems like people like the emusa BOV's, just wondering about the above and whether it will work with the mount, it just has a strange shape.






For those of you running these did you have to take them apart and adjust them for your application? My car pulls about 15 vac at idle and 20 when loaded. Getting a YSI and plan to run 20 psi

killernoodle

If that bottom one is the TiAL part, it looks identical to the EMUSA one. The strange groove at the top is for an o ring.

Tjabo

Is this about a BOV? If so, they really don't need to stay shut at idle and work best when they don't. With a turbo there is always slight positive pressure in front of the throttle plate at idle, so air travels OUT of the BOV at idle, and therefore it's not a problem.

TiAL stuff is absolute top quality, and it's an excellent company. It's not to say that the copies won't serve their intended purpose most of the time, but when you have both in your hands side by side, there is no comparison.

Third Honk

I was talking about the strange shape of the bottom of the EMUSA not the mounting flange Does it totally cover the mounting flange? When I look at the Tial and the mounting flange I could see how it would be a nice air tight fit with the O-ring, the same sort of fitment with the bottom of the EMUSA and that mount doesn't seem to add up.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

I would say you are dead wrong on this as on the application that it was being used, it was mounted after the MAF due to a top mount intercooler (as it was designed to do with the adapter) and there was no way to mount it pre-MAF as it was not a blow through MAF. If it is releasing air after the MAF has already measured it, it creates a leak that can not be reliably tuned around. If you had it mounted before the MAF in a blow through configuration (the way it should be done with an atmospheric BOV) then it would not be an issue other than the fact that you would be pulling in UNFILTERED air from the BOV.