whats the budget FI SHORT BLOCK set up....for 800 RWHP.........
#21
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Yes I would notice her if she was hot or had big ( . ) ( . )
I dont know why but on Vette we noticed the difference from the iron block the front got slammed but on F-body we wont notice it.
A Well built 370ci iron or aluminum block will easily reach 800rwhp I'm hoping my 347ci will do that.
I dont know why but on Vette we noticed the difference from the iron block the front got slammed but on F-body we wont notice it.
A Well built 370ci iron or aluminum block will easily reach 800rwhp I'm hoping my 347ci will do that.
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#23
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LOL Oh Yeah.. I'm a motorboatin' SOB!!!
My budget set-up for twin 76's in the work:
- Stock 5.3 LY5 with the exception of 5.3 Wiseco's and ARP rod bolts
- Stock 317 heads with 1.6 exhaust valves
- Additional machine work for o-ringing block and pinning mains
- DM Performance main girdle (not necessary on iron block)
- Stock graphite gaskets
- DIY internal engine coatings
I know it's not necessarily low cost but "budget" can be used so loosely when building up an LS motor. Well, at least it does for me compared to my other options of building another 2JZ or my 1UZ. Plus, I do a lot of my own fabrication work so I guess that could be considered "building-on-a -budget".
My budget set-up for twin 76's in the work:
- Stock 5.3 LY5 with the exception of 5.3 Wiseco's and ARP rod bolts
- Stock 317 heads with 1.6 exhaust valves
- Additional machine work for o-ringing block and pinning mains
- DM Performance main girdle (not necessary on iron block)
- Stock graphite gaskets
- DIY internal engine coatings
I know it's not necessarily low cost but "budget" can be used so loosely when building up an LS motor. Well, at least it does for me compared to my other options of building another 2JZ or my 1UZ. Plus, I do a lot of my own fabrication work so I guess that could be considered "building-on-a -budget".
#25
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Anything you push past the limits of the stock rods will lift the stock casting heads anyhow. I do not see the point in good rods and pistons if you are not going to put a decent casting on it. You will get away with it for a while but if you make 100 passes you will feel the pain of moving water and eventually damaging your cylinder heads.
#26
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Anything you push past the limits of the stock rods will lift the stock casting heads anyhow. I do not see the point in good rods and pistons if you are not going to put a decent casting on it. You will get away with it for a while but if you make 100 passes you will feel the pain of moving water and eventually damaging your cylinder heads.
#28
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What is needed is better heads then 317s. Real 800rwhp will move water with 317s, unless its 800rwhp on a happy dyno....see a lot of that lately though. Real 800rwhp through an auto is a 150mph car at 3600lbs. 150mph cars move water with stock casting heads period. It would be a waste of money to o-ring 317s.
#29
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I will be shooting for 800rwhp soon and I will be using LSA heads. They are made of stronger T-6 alloy which should help keep them down longer then 317's or any other stock cast head besides a LS9 head.
#34
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Sorry not... high jacking the thread but i have a similar build going on with an lq4 and I'm running a turbonetics t76 with .96a/r shooting for 700rwhp is the the turbo going to run out of steam???
#36
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What is needed is better heads then 317s. Real 800rwhp will move water with 317s, unless its 800rwhp on a happy dyno....see a lot of that lately though. Real 800rwhp through an auto is a 150mph car at 3600lbs. 150mph cars move water with stock casting heads period. It would be a waste of money to o-ring 317s.
#38
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The heads are lifting due to being four bolt per cylinder, thicker deck heads help with this problem to an extent. An engine with a turbo can handle a little more boost than one with a blower, due to the blower using up more power than the turbo would, before the heads start lifting. Bob
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PM's disabled, please e-mail me
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https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website