I'm thinking this spark plug gap is a little too tight???
#61
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Not sure on the fast but if you get a pre ls6 intake coolant tubes you can make it work for the ls6. Just takes a little patience and time to bent the tubes to fit the intake on top. Also you have to grind all the casting lines on the bottom of the intake for it to clear. Well worth it though.
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So you live and learn. I'll be taking all of this into account as I move forward.
Thanks for all of the info guys.
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i dont think anything hit that electrode. that looks like it got hot and metled down because just the tip is down. if something hit it i would think the electrode would be smashed and deformed and in this case its just slightly bent.. looks just like the plug on my waverunner that leaned out and melted a hole in the piston, nearly identical aluminum and all. i would consider sending the injectors out to get flow checked and cleaned as a precaution if your wideband really was reading in the low 10's because maybe you had an issue with one injector? who knows exactly what happened though until you tear it down.
Last edited by got-a-ls1; 01-16-2012 at 10:52 AM.
#67
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Well, that might be my issue then as I've seen the wideband bottom out at 10.0 multiple times as I went into boost. I've been slowly pulling fuel out making sure not to lean it out too much.
So you live and learn. I'll be taking all of this into account as I move forward.
Thanks for all of the info guys.
So you live and learn. I'll be taking all of this into account as I move forward.
Thanks for all of the info guys.
If there even is a "target" afr to shoot for in a boosted ls motor, it would be 11.2-11.8 but even then that's a big blanket statement and a pretty big window still.
#68
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It's ok Alchemist, your a smart guy, I'm sure you can figure out something that will work 10x better than before! Most of the time a motor can tolerate a little lean, being rich and overtimed will blow stuff up way faster than being a little lean and undertimed.
If there even is a "target" afr to shoot for in a boosted ls motor, it would be 11.2-11.8 but even then that's a big blanket statement and a pretty big window still.
If there even is a "target" afr to shoot for in a boosted ls motor, it would be 11.2-11.8 but even then that's a big blanket statement and a pretty big window still.
I will pull the head, and maybe, just maybe, I'll be okay, but I'm not holding my breath.
#69
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pushrods dont stretch.
i dont think anything hit that electrode. that looks like it got hot and metled down because just the tip is down. if something hit it i would think the electrode would be smashed and deformed and in this case its just slightly bent.. looks just like the plug on my waverunner that leaned out and melted a hole in the piston, nearly identical aluminum and all. i would consider sending the injectors out to get flow checked and cleaned as a precaution if your wideband really was reading in the low 10's because maybe you had an issue with one injector? who knows exactly what happened though until you tear it down.
i dont think anything hit that electrode. that looks like it got hot and metled down because just the tip is down. if something hit it i would think the electrode would be smashed and deformed and in this case its just slightly bent.. looks just like the plug on my waverunner that leaned out and melted a hole in the piston, nearly identical aluminum and all. i would consider sending the injectors out to get flow checked and cleaned as a precaution if your wideband really was reading in the low 10's because maybe you had an issue with one injector? who knows exactly what happened though until you tear it down.
Last edited by JRENIGAR; 01-16-2012 at 01:34 PM.
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Then why would you ever need to re size a rod??? On a side note; how would the piston hit the plug way up inside the combustion chamber anyways? Wouldnt it hit the deck surface of the head if anything, it being a flat top piston and all??? I agree on the piston hitting the plug, unless there is a big piece of the piston pushed up in the center of the crown.
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I have a friend that had his timing chain break while going down the track. It took out 1 piston damaging that area of the head. They were AFR's and the machinists were able to weld up & re CC that chaimber. Sure it wasnt real cheap to do but obviously less expensive than a new head.
#78
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And that brings me to my quandry. I want to pull the head to see how bad it is, but I need to think big picture here.
Currently the car is on the lift in the garage facing inward. If I were to pull the motor, it would be easier to do if it were facing out towards the driveway since I only have a 20x20 garage and I have a workbench in front of the car limiting the workable space.
Do I put the sparkplug back in #5, leave #7 out, disconnect the injector on #7 and start the car to spin it around on the lift, and back it into the garage? I'd hate to think I would be damaging the head or the block more by doing so. Or should I pull the head as it sits, and worry about pulling the motor later?
I'm really eager to know what happened and how bad it is. My guess, I'm going to find the piston in #7 with a peice missing at the 10'oclock position.