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I'm thinking this spark plug gap is a little too tight???

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Old 01-15-2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SPRAYED 01
Not sure on the fast but if you get a pre ls6 intake coolant tubes you can make it work for the ls6. Just takes a little patience and time to bent the tubes to fit the intake on top. Also you have to grind all the casting lines on the bottom of the intake for it to clear. Well worth it though.
If your taking your heads off anyway could you not just tap the heads for the rear steam holes like we did on my engine we ran -4an line from the back to the front and then to the outlet of the waterpump. It seemed to work good when we turned on the electric waterpump the system bled itself perfectly with no air pockets. jeff
Attached Thumbnails I'm thinking this spark plug gap is a little too tight???-motor1.jpg  
Old 01-15-2012, 08:47 PM
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Heres a pic of the front
Attached Thumbnails I'm thinking this spark plug gap is a little too tight???-motor4.jpg  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
Overly rich is not a good thing either, it can be very hard on parts.
This x2. Overly rich will have the combustion charge still combusting as it exits the exhaust valve. Being too rich can weaken the rings to the point that they lift doing the same amount of damage.
Old 01-16-2012, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
This x2. Overly rich will have the combustion charge still combusting as it exits the exhaust valve. Being too rich can weaken the rings to the point that they lift doing the same amount of damage.
Well, that might be my issue then as I've seen the wideband bottom out at 10.0 multiple times as I went into boost. I've been slowly pulling fuel out making sure not to lean it out too much.

So you live and learn. I'll be taking all of this into account as I move forward.

Thanks for all of the info guys.
Old 01-16-2012, 10:22 AM
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I wonder if it would be worth checking pushrod length after tearing it apart just to make sure the rpm's didnt slightly strech any of them. Hey, what could it hurt and cost just to check???
Old 01-16-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
I wonder if it would be worth checking pushrod length after tearing it apart just to make sure the rpm's didnt slightly strech any of them. Hey, what could it hurt and cost just to check???
pushrods dont stretch.

i dont think anything hit that electrode. that looks like it got hot and metled down because just the tip is down. if something hit it i would think the electrode would be smashed and deformed and in this case its just slightly bent.. looks just like the plug on my waverunner that leaned out and melted a hole in the piston, nearly identical aluminum and all. i would consider sending the injectors out to get flow checked and cleaned as a precaution if your wideband really was reading in the low 10's because maybe you had an issue with one injector? who knows exactly what happened though until you tear it down.

Last edited by got-a-ls1; 01-16-2012 at 10:52 AM.
Old 01-16-2012, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Well, that might be my issue then as I've seen the wideband bottom out at 10.0 multiple times as I went into boost. I've been slowly pulling fuel out making sure not to lean it out too much.

So you live and learn. I'll be taking all of this into account as I move forward.

Thanks for all of the info guys.
It's ok Alchemist, your a smart guy, I'm sure you can figure out something that will work 10x better than before! Most of the time a motor can tolerate a little lean, being rich and overtimed will blow stuff up way faster than being a little lean and undertimed.

If there even is a "target" afr to shoot for in a boosted ls motor, it would be 11.2-11.8 but even then that's a big blanket statement and a pretty big window still.
Old 01-16-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
It's ok Alchemist, your a smart guy, I'm sure you can figure out something that will work 10x better than before! Most of the time a motor can tolerate a little lean, being rich and overtimed will blow stuff up way faster than being a little lean and undertimed.

If there even is a "target" afr to shoot for in a boosted ls motor, it would be 11.2-11.8 but even then that's a big blanket statement and a pretty big window still.
Well, I was overly rich, and under timed, it was only seeing 13-14 degrees of timing.

I will pull the head, and maybe, just maybe, I'll be okay, but I'm not holding my breath.
Old 01-16-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by got-a-ls1
pushrods dont stretch.

i dont think anything hit that electrode. that looks like it got hot and metled down because just the tip is down. if something hit it i would think the electrode would be smashed and deformed and in this case its just slightly bent.. looks just like the plug on my waverunner that leaned out and melted a hole in the piston, nearly identical aluminum and all. i would consider sending the injectors out to get flow checked and cleaned as a precaution if your wideband really was reading in the low 10's because maybe you had an issue with one injector? who knows exactly what happened though until you tear it down.
Then why would you ever need to re size a rod??? On a side note; how would the piston hit the plug way up inside the combustion chamber anyways? Wouldnt it hit the deck surface of the head if anything, it being a flat top piston and all??? I agree on the piston hitting the plug, unless there is a big piece of the piston pushed up in the center of the crown.

Last edited by JRENIGAR; 01-16-2012 at 01:34 PM.
Old 01-16-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
Then why would you ever need to re size a rod??? On a side note; how would the piston hit the plug way up inside the combustion chamber anyways? Wouldnt it hit the deck surface of the head if anything, it being a flat top piston and all??? I agree on the piston hitting the plug, unless there is a big piece of the piston pushed up in the center of the crown.
Usually a piece of the ringland breaks and bounces around the cylinder and tears it up.
Old 01-16-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGBRKR02
Usually a piece of the ringland breaks and bounces around the cylinder and tears it up.
That's my concern as the heads were pretty damn expensive on their own. I'm hoping for the best, but expecting the worst to be honest.
Old 01-16-2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
That's my concern as the heads were pretty damn expensive on their own. I'm hoping for the best, but expecting the worst to be honest.
I have a friend that had his timing chain break while going down the track. It took out 1 piston damaging that area of the head. They were AFR's and the machinists were able to weld up & re CC that chaimber. Sure it wasnt real cheap to do but obviously less expensive than a new head.
Old 01-16-2012, 05:44 PM
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Damn... I meant connecting rod, duhhh...
Old 01-20-2012, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
Damn... I meant connecting rod, duhhh...
LOL... was gonna say...

anyways conn rods get resized because the big end becomes out of round, not because it stretches. rod bolts can stretch and toast a bearing but thats just the cap moving not the length of the rod.
Old 01-20-2012, 02:22 AM
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yeah, brain fart moment... We all have em...
Old 01-20-2012, 07:27 PM
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Just found this thread sorry to hear this! Keep us up to date on what you find when you open her up.
Old 01-20-2012, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
That's my concern as the heads were pretty damn expensive on their own. I'm hoping for the best, but expecting the worst to be honest.
If you need someone that can really work some magic on a set of fubar'd heads, if indeed yours have damage shoot me a PM. I can get you hooked up with someone that can for sure fix them.
Old 01-21-2012, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
If you need someone that can really work some magic on a set of fubar'd heads, if indeed yours have damage shoot me a PM. I can get you hooked up with someone that can for sure fix them.
Thanks. My first thought was to send the head back to Cary at Mast because if anyone knows the head it's him.

And that brings me to my quandry. I want to pull the head to see how bad it is, but I need to think big picture here.

Currently the car is on the lift in the garage facing inward. If I were to pull the motor, it would be easier to do if it were facing out towards the driveway since I only have a 20x20 garage and I have a workbench in front of the car limiting the workable space.

Do I put the sparkplug back in #5, leave #7 out, disconnect the injector on #7 and start the car to spin it around on the lift, and back it into the garage? I'd hate to think I would be damaging the head or the block more by doing so. Or should I pull the head as it sits, and worry about pulling the motor later?

I'm really eager to know what happened and how bad it is. My guess, I'm going to find the piston in #7 with a peice missing at the 10'oclock position.
Old 01-21-2012, 06:57 AM
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I wouldnt start it to turn it around. Time for good ole fashion man power.
Old 01-21-2012, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGBRKR02
I wouldnt start it to turn it around. Time for good ole fashion man power.
Agreed. Pull head. I'll help turn the car around at a later date. Let's see some pictures!!!!!!


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