who has successfully welded extra head bolt mounts to an iron block?
#21
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Cool GL! I have done 1/2 studs done on one of my motors, but I don't think they were any better than the APR 2000 or L19 Ive used. When you say O-ring are you talking about the stainless wire in the heads or old school or what? Ive used the LS9's with good luck, but the last time it was just LS7's because of the bore size etc...
#22
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1/2" studs and just a single oring will hold well over what the op wants. We have a Ysi car making over 1k on an aluminum ls2 w stock sized head bolts and cometics. 21psi. I don't see why 1/2" studs and a single oring on an iron block wouldn't hold 1400-1500 and 30 psi.
#23
FormerVendor
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4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
#24
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Impossible.
The weld will only be along the outer boundary of the material added.
A fully cast piece will be solid over it's entirety. The welded piece cannot be as strong let alone stronger.
it's also why some high tech stuff in aircraft and even many cars nowadays is bonded as opposed to welded. The bond adheres to a much greater surface area and is stronger than bolts, rivets or even welds. The weld itself may be strong, but as it's only secured to a small area, this area fails first.
The weld will only be along the outer boundary of the material added.
A fully cast piece will be solid over it's entirety. The welded piece cannot be as strong let alone stronger.
it's also why some high tech stuff in aircraft and even many cars nowadays is bonded as opposed to welded. The bond adheres to a much greater surface area and is stronger than bolts, rivets or even welds. The weld itself may be strong, but as it's only secured to a small area, this area fails first.
#25
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so ur saying with 1/2" studs, ls9's and oringed.... u wouldnt even trust?
but then u say that ls9s with just four stock bolts will hold 1200whp........
im not makin any sense outta this
but then u say that ls9s with just four stock bolts will hold 1200whp........
im not makin any sense outta this
From my experience, 30ps and 1500hp would create quite a problem for a 4-bolt setup with a single o-ring and copper gasket. I've seen so many of those setups leak I would personally not run one at any HP level.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
#26
FormerVendor
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1/2in studs and LS9's are great, not sure of the specifics on how an o-ring would be used with a non-malleable gasket.
#27
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i was under the impression that ppl did it pretty regularly. i knoiw i see it all the time in the bmw, honda, dsm worlds.
the specs on the rings would defanitly be different. i know whenever they use them with mls, there is alot less interferance(if u will). the cummins guys do it too.
#28
#29
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From my experience, 30ps and 1500hp would create quite a problem for a 4-bolt setup with a single o-ring and copper gasket. I've seen so many of those setups leak I would personally not run one at any HP level.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
#30
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Maybe I'll just o-ring since thats no such a big deal to do. I like a little extra assurance, not being on the edge.....
.
#31
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From my experience, 30ps and 1500hp would create quite a problem for a 4-bolt setup with a single o-ring and copper gasket. I've seen so many of those setups leak I would personally not run one at any HP level.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
OR
1/2" studs and LS9 gaskets........and no o-ring
Is that the two choices?
.
#32
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Look Jim and I are telling you to use LS9 gaskets and either L19 or ARP 2000 material head studs or a 1/2 head stud. I don't care for the 1/2 although they have the same clamping strength as L19's. 1/2" studs are cheaper, but about the same price after you factor in the machining the block for 1/2" head studs. The ARP 2000 do have a little less clamping capability, but it is so minimal that it has worked great for me. So since having done both I just prefer to buy the studs in ARP 2000 or L19 IMO. And not doing O-rings!
#33
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HKE is building my LQ4/9 402 and I've ask alot of these question to Erik. He told me that he wouldn't use 1/2" studs that they distort the block. He said that he doesn’t use o-rings until the 2k rwhp. He said it all comes down to the tune but with a good one 1500rwhp is possible on 4 bolt heads. My build consist of Trick flow 235’s, LS9 head gaskets and ARP 234-4317 head studs. I told him I wanted a motor capable of 1200rwhp.
#34
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Look Jim and I are telling you to use LS9 gaskets and either L19 or ARP 2000 material head studs or a 1/2 head stud. I don't care for the 1/2 although they have the same clamping strength as L19's. 1/2" studs are cheaper, but about the same price after you factor in the machining the block for 1/2" head studs. The ARP 2000 do have a little less clamping capability, but it is so minimal that it has worked great for me. So since having done both I just prefer to buy the studs in ARP 2000 or L19 IMO. And not doing O-rings!
.
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From my experience, 30ps and 1500hp would create quite a problem for a 4-bolt setup with a single o-ring and copper gasket. I've seen so many of those setups leak I would personally not run one at any HP level.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
4-bolt with LS9 gaskets is good to 1200hp +/-. I'll report back if I get one to push water. (wouldn't think twice about using LS9's and ARP studs for the OP's goal of 1000rwhp).
Above that my preference would be 6-bolt/MLS to say, 1500hp.
Above that, 6-bolt/double o-ring. LME set up Andy's motor (7.52/194mph) with dry deck/double o-ring on his LSX block and it's been perfect.
The above figures are based off of my experience and assumes the tune is on, octane is sufficient and you have an efficient turbo system.
As for adding lugs to an iron block, I wouldn't do it. If I was targeting a horsepower level that required 6 bolts per cylinder I would buy a 6-bolt block and that would probably one of the cheaper parts of the build.
#36
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i think 50% of this decision is up to what heads ur buying.
aftermarket heads: no oring, ls9s and studs
stock casting: oring, ls9s, studs
stock heads with studs and ls9s dont usually last past 900-950hp, they can, defanitly, but not usually
aftermarket heads: no oring, ls9s and studs
stock casting: oring, ls9s, studs
stock heads with studs and ls9s dont usually last past 900-950hp, they can, defanitly, but not usually
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The one thing Im wondering though is how you get to the inner topmost boltholes. On the 6 bolt stuff you torque them down from the valley, but you cant get to it on an iron block