ARP bolts vs Studs ???
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,313
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From: Las Vegas NV
ARP bolts vs Studs ??? What are the limits of the ARP bolt in a force induction motor with 14 PSI in D1 procharger? Is better to use ARP studs with that boost? Why??
studs are always the safer bet espically on an engine that will be seeing higher cylinder pressure that are more likely to try and lift the head off the block........studs provide a stronger clamping force than bolts do.......when tightening a bolt there is not only a stretching force being encoutnered but also a rotational force......with a stud there is only a stretching force encountered which alows the bolt to be torqued/stretched more properly.......with your application i would run studs.....
Studs are the only way to go, They pull the head down, which keeps it from lifting instead of bolting the heads down where you are trying to contain the cylinder pressure.
Correct me if I am wrong but aren't the bolts a one time deal and then you need new ones where the studs you can always re-use?
Correct me if I am wrong but aren't the bolts a one time deal and then you need new ones where the studs you can always re-use?
GM bolts yes they are TTY bolts ARP's no they are re-usable.....but as with any bolt they do have a lifespan....eventually they will not return their stretch.....its at this point they will need to be replaced.....
With stock torque to yield bolts, yes one time use. ARP bolts can be reused, I prefer studs though.
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Studs are the only way to go, They pull the head down, which keeps it from lifting instead of bolting the heads down where you are trying to contain the cylinder pressure.
Correct me if I am wrong but aren't the bolts a one time deal and then you need new ones where the studs you can always re-use?
Correct me if I am wrong but aren't the bolts a one time deal and then you need new ones where the studs you can always re-use?
I think you are mistaken, both are applying pressure to the head down on the block. Studs tend to be better because they are fine thread on the nut and coarse where they go in the block. When you are tightening them down, the fine thread creates more clamping pressure for the same torque value because bolts will only have the coarse thread to tighten into. It also prevents stripping because you are not rotating the threads in the aluminum when you torque them down, so there is less wear on the threads in the block.
1. Only a streting force applied to the stud upon torquing which eliminates rotational stress on the bolt when being tightened
2. You are tigtening a fine thread stud/nut which has a much higher clamping force threshold
3. in a race application its much easier to assemble the engine quickly with studs
and one of the biggest things with installing studs is to make sure you have a coating of moly lube/ assembly lube on both sides of the washer and the bottom of the nut.....you need a low friction contact between the faces of the head/washer/nut to get a proper reading.....dry installing will skew this number drastically....
Sorry to Hijack the thread, but im doing a build on my ls1. im installing an mp112 magnacharger and going to make 8-10 psi. Im installing a set of ls9 gaskets, and i would like to go arp for bolts or studs. i know you guys say studs are better, but would bolts be fine for my build?
Sorry to Hijack the thread, but im doing a build on my ls1. im installing an mp112 magnacharger and going to make 8-10 psi. Im installing a set of ls9 gaskets, and i would like to go arp for bolts or studs. i know you guys say studs are better, but would bolts be fine for my build?
the re assurance that studs provide are well worth the extra money. i mean when that head lifts off and you you ruin them along with god knows what else....which is not as likely even with bolts but still a possibility given the design on the bolt patterns.
