Desired sleeve thickness for F/I build?
#1
Desired sleeve thickness for F/I build?
If you building a motor with low compression for a supercharger or turbocharger, what is the minimum you would want to go on sleeve thickness on an aluminum block?
Does anyone know a reference chart that has the numbers for the different blocks.
I am wondering just how weak the LS7 sleeves are as I was talking about it in another thread.
I know re-sleeves often boast more thickness at larger bores than stock with smaller bores. Just trying to get an idea of where they draw the line between just a re-hone or needing to be sleeved.
Does anyone know a reference chart that has the numbers for the different blocks.
I am wondering just how weak the LS7 sleeves are as I was talking about it in another thread.
I know re-sleeves often boast more thickness at larger bores than stock with smaller bores. Just trying to get an idea of where they draw the line between just a re-hone or needing to be sleeved.
#4
EVERY BLOCK should be sonic tested before boring and consult with the engine builder on how much can safely be bored to withstand your hp goals!!!
#7
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From what I've heard the LS7's use a different style "Grey" iron liner. I believe that their more brittle then other liners, but were a good bang for the buck for a stock LS7. Most people looking for big power endup resleeving them. I'm sitting in the same boat right now, doing homework for a new motor. I would look into a LS3 block. On their stock bore, they seem to be pretty decent and with a slight increase in stroke, you can get up to a 427ci. I'm leaning more towards a LSX block but I'm a little concerned about core shift.
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#9
From what I've heard the LS7's use a different style "Grey" iron liner. I believe that their more brittle then other liners, but were a good bang for the buck for a stock LS7. Most people looking for big power endup resleeving them. I'm sitting in the same boat right now, doing homework for a new motor. I would look into a LS3 block. On their stock bore, they seem to be pretty decent and with a slight increase in stroke, you can get up to a 427ci. I'm leaning more towards a LSX block but I'm a little concerned about core shift.
For me personally if I ever go Procharged (thrown the idea around a few times) I would just go with a set-up almost identical to yours. 390ci iron with an F1
I was just curious where there is alot of talk about ls7 popping under little boost.
Yea I know you can go 30 over for n/a builds. With the extra heat, wouldn't you want to keep it at no more than 10 thousands over like the other guy said?
Whats the biggest enemy for the cylinder walls in a nitrous or f/i application? The additional heat created or something else?
#10
Launching!
Yea I know you can go 30 over for n/a builds. With the extra heat, wouldn't you want to keep it at no more than 10 thousands over like the other guy said?
Whats the biggest enemy for the cylinder walls in a nitrous or f/i application? The additional heat created or something else?
Whats the biggest enemy for the cylinder walls in a nitrous or f/i application? The additional heat created or something else?
#17
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I don't quite understand why people go with 370s. All I hear is they are a good balance in cubes and perfect for a power adder, but I think it's kinda stupid to bore it .030 over from say and ls2/lq block which are 364 stock. So why make a 370 with thinner cylinder walls, just to gain 6 cubes? Lol.
#19
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When you bore it out, you facilitate less valve shrouding with heads that use larger valves. The intake valve ends up "Shrouding" the airflow on a smaller bore motor. Boring it out, allows more room for the air to enter without it "stacking" up. I use stage 3 LS6 heads with a 2.08 intake valve and I wanted the best possible airflow I could get.
#20
When you bore it out, you facilitate less valve shrouding with heads that use larger valves. The intake valve ends up "Shrouding" the airflow on a smaller bore motor. Boring it out, allows more room for the air to enter without it "stacking" up. I use stage 3 LS6 heads with a 2.08 intake valve and I wanted the best possible airflow I could get.
I believe on the boost 5.3 AES sells they are running a 3.850 bore.