Danny

iTrader: (16)

Ok, I've tried posting before and really didnt get any reponse from guys who have experience with filling their blocks. So I figured I'd try a different approach.

I'm looking to do a 1/2 fill on my LS3/L92 block. The reason why I want to do this is because I don't have the money to get it resleeved ($1850) and I want to give me block a bit more strength.

For those of you who have filled your blocks, please give me your feedback. I want to know...

Do you have a 1/2, 3/4 or full fill?
How many miles do you drive it?
Did you notice any changing in your cooling?
Do you regret it?
What cooling modifications did you have to make?
How much power are you producing?
How long have you had it filled?
Which product did you use?
Any other comments or tips?

I want to hear from those who have experience with this ONLY. I don't want this thread getting fill with a bunch of "I heard" or "I think".

Thanks in advance.

tonyturbo42

iTrader: (1)

I don't "Think" I have not "Heard" Our shop has filled many blocks for our drags cars to avoid cylinder warping under extreme high boost on engines with float type cylinders. We NEVER recommend it for a street car ever. If you are worried about your block get an iron block. How much power are you trying to make. Despite what some people say you can get 1000 HP out of a stock LS3 block as long as you don't beat the hell out of it and have a very very good tune. So long story short if you are driving this car on the street and expect it to stay cool. Do not fill the water jacket, its thats simple.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Its not going to be a daily driver or anything like that. I just need it to be able to drive like 10-15 mins to get to my street/strip for testing and running. I'll of course run a good oil cooler with a fan and a good cooling system.

I'm looking to make 1000rwhp

tonyturbo42

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I don't know what else to say. You asked for experience to speak. We never recommend filling a block on anything but a pure strip car. Sounds like you already know what you want to do so I'm not quite sure why you are asking for advice if you really already have your mind made up. If you want to fill your block because you think its going to help you then go ahead and fill it.

Tony

Bobsmyuncle

iTrader: (32)

Iron block or fill the bottom half. 160* stat, water wetter, nice fan an fan stats.

Smooth sailin

SilverSS

iTrader: (30)

My iron block is almost a 3/4 fill. Car is purely street. Get a good oil cooler system and you won't have any problems. I drive my car all the time, sometimes well over a hundred miles at a time on weekends. Water and oil temps stay where they should be. It's been this way for 2-1/2 years. I did it to mainly keep the cylinders from moving around and help with pushing water and it seems to be working. With the F1A at max impeller 93/meth and a good tune, it hasn't pushed a drop on real long hard runs.
Use the brand Hardblok. It think they say you can use it on aluminum blocks but you should contact them to make sure.

silver_82

Ive filled my street strip sbc blocks up to the water pump holes and never had issues, oil cooler and a good cooling system really helps

86lxnotch

iTrader: (3)

i dont have exp on a ls based motor but my old 408w ford motor had a 1/2 fill and made 841rwhp on pumpgas.....drove it 60+ miles w/o going over 180*. with a proper cooling system i wouldnt hesitate on one of these blocks either

Danny

iTrader: (16)

Tony, I wasn't saying I was going to do that. I was asking if the upgrading oiling system/cooling system would make a difference of whether it would be streetable or not. Thanks for the advice.


SilverSS,

What part of the block did you fill the block to? Waterpump ports?
What kind of temps do you see when you're out driving on the street?



Thanks guys for the advice. It's really helped see things clearer.

SilverSS

iTrader: (30)

On a 90 degree Texas night, water temps will stay around 190 degrees. Oil temps are the hottest during freeway driving and stay around 205-215 degrees and 185ish stop light to stop light driving. On a long hard run 60-150+mph oil temps will climb to around 225 degrees then cool down pretty quick.
Block is filled 1/4" above the water pump ports.

Danny

iTrader: (16)

What kind of oil cooling system are you running? I'm going to be running a set of twin T66 turbos so that may add a little extra heat.

I was thinking of using a good size cooler with a fan to maintain temps.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Bump this up..looking into some good Oil Cooling setups.

Jax326

Has anyone with an IRON block filled theirs while the motor was assembled and run it? I know it's supposed to be done and then the block machined, at least that's what I understand is the " proper" way to do it but I'm curious If anyone has just done something like a half fill on a JY iron block for added strength

Twin turbo c5

I filled a 400 sbc and run it for 6 years in a mustang. It had a roots style blower , nos . I filled mine about half full and still had no problems with cooling even street driving.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

Well my block is at machine shop now getting sonic tested. I may see about going 4.125" and a block fill since I have a LS7 rotating assembly.

Just noticed this is under FI... my motor will be N/A on this setup. Just was searching Google about filling water jackets.

p8ntslinger676

My iron block is getting half filled and will be more or less only for street use with an occasional track visit every blue moon. It shouldn't be an issue as long as you run a decent oil cooler and if you are really worried and may be sitting in traffic it wouldnt hurt to throw a fan on the oil cooler. We have a lot of customers with half filled 2J blocks that only run them on the street and they never have any issues with overheating.