LQ4 S480 Build
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It's not so much the brand of his shocks, but the guy that told him to put the clicks in them like he did.....
GREAT HITS Doug!!!
Car has really come around. If you try C16, I'd make sure you have more timing in it down low off the brake and not just up top in the higher RPM's. Use it to your advantage that the added octane will allow more cylinder pressure down low. It will really help get your heavy car off the starting line.
With the gear you have too, rpm on the shift and fueling at the bottom of the shift extension and fine tuning those two to get the best acceleration out the back of the track will get you your 8 second pass.
C16 likes higher IAT's and leaner air fuel ratios so don't be afraid to get it into the high 11 air fuel ratios.
Good luck!
GREAT HITS Doug!!!
Car has really come around. If you try C16, I'd make sure you have more timing in it down low off the brake and not just up top in the higher RPM's. Use it to your advantage that the added octane will allow more cylinder pressure down low. It will really help get your heavy car off the starting line.
With the gear you have too, rpm on the shift and fueling at the bottom of the shift extension and fine tuning those two to get the best acceleration out the back of the track will get you your 8 second pass.
C16 likes higher IAT's and leaner air fuel ratios so don't be afraid to get it into the high 11 air fuel ratios.
Good luck!
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From: Granby, Mass
It's not so much the brand of his shocks, but the guy that told him to put the clicks in them like he did.....
GREAT HITS Doug!!!
Car has really come around. If you try C16, I'd make sure you have more timing in it down low off the brake and not just up top in the higher RPM's. Use it to your advantage that the added octane will allow more cylinder pressure down low. It will really help get your heavy car off the starting line.
With the gear you have too, rpm on the shift and fueling at the bottom of the shift extension and fine tuning those two to get the best acceleration out the back of the track will get you your 8 second pass.
C16 likes higher IAT's and leaner air fuel ratios so don't be afraid to get it into the high 11 air fuel ratios.
Good luck!
GREAT HITS Doug!!!
Car has really come around. If you try C16, I'd make sure you have more timing in it down low off the brake and not just up top in the higher RPM's. Use it to your advantage that the added octane will allow more cylinder pressure down low. It will really help get your heavy car off the starting line.
With the gear you have too, rpm on the shift and fueling at the bottom of the shift extension and fine tuning those two to get the best acceleration out the back of the track will get you your 8 second pass.
C16 likes higher IAT's and leaner air fuel ratios so don't be afraid to get it into the high 11 air fuel ratios.
Good luck!
As for c16 you say high 11s? I dont want to burn anything up. I was going to add slowly and see how it reacted. Add a degree of timing and 1 psi then just go up. I'd like to do 16° 21 psi. (Map maxed out there) I think it should hit 150 but this bottom end will be screaming! I need to remove some weight somehow but there's not much more I could take out. 8s would be insane in a stock bottom end f body. Has anyone ever done that with one of these fat pigs? Lol
Side note I need to get these tires to stop moving. About 1" per launch haha I am going to use the permatex hi tack and if that doesn't work I know its not recommended but ill screw them down till I buy bead locks
Last edited by Camaro9969; Sep 9, 2013 at 06:22 AM.
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Oh definitely! Between the twin scroll Bullseye batmowheel cover and billet wheel it spools instantly! And I just started tuning for faster spool up. Highly recommend utilizing the divided housing. And for the record this is with 2.5 hot pipes.....
As for the 2.5" pipes, I have noticed my twinscroll cast s480 seems to do pretty ok with the 92mm turbine on my 5.3 motor. I am sure it could be better, but for now it is fine. I may do a 2.25 next or a 2 just to have back to back testing.
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I always thought that too, but according to griffin that is an old wives tale.
As for the 2.5" pipes, I have noticed my twinscroll cast s480 seems to do pretty ok with the 92mm turbine on my 5.3 motor. I am sure it could be better, but for now it is fine. I may do a 2.25 next or a 2 just to have back to back testing.
As for the 2.5" pipes, I have noticed my twinscroll cast s480 seems to do pretty ok with the 92mm turbine on my 5.3 motor. I am sure it could be better, but for now it is fine. I may do a 2.25 next or a 2 just to have back to back testing.
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Well I mostly want the cooler for the street. And its not even going through the cooler right now so any flow will be better than what it is right now
Thanks Martin. Not going to lie I had my buddy james who did suspension work on pro mod teams out with me the past two trips to the track lol but I started with where you mentioned and james just kept taking out clicks till it shook the tires and rattled my head (which sucked) then put one back in and it seems to work great. But you definitely helped along the way.
As for c16 you say high 11s? I dont want to burn anything up. I was going to add slowly and see how it reacted. Add a degree of timing and 1 psi then just go up. I'd like to do 16° 21 psi. (Map maxed out there) I think it should hit 150 but this bottom end will be screaming! I need to remove some weight somehow but there's not much more I could take out. 8s would be insane in a stock bottom end f body. Has anyone ever done that with one of these fat pigs? Lol
Side note I need to get these tires to stop moving. About 1" per launch haha I am going to use the permatex hi tack and if that doesn't work I know its not recommended but ill screw them down till I buy bead locks
As for c16 you say high 11s? I dont want to burn anything up. I was going to add slowly and see how it reacted. Add a degree of timing and 1 psi then just go up. I'd like to do 16° 21 psi. (Map maxed out there) I think it should hit 150 but this bottom end will be screaming! I need to remove some weight somehow but there's not much more I could take out. 8s would be insane in a stock bottom end f body. Has anyone ever done that with one of these fat pigs? Lol
Side note I need to get these tires to stop moving. About 1" per launch haha I am going to use the permatex hi tack and if that doesn't work I know its not recommended but ill screw them down till I buy bead locks
Yes 11.8 is what I'd target on 20psi and 18 degrees of timing. How much boost are you launching on?
I'd try to leave on at least 24-26 degrees of timing and not pull any out until the converter has flashed and begun to grab the motor. Is there a dip in the rpm curve after the converter flashes or does it flat line any before it begins to climb? Pull the timing out of the tune slower off the hit if the track will take it and leave 28 degrees in it up to 10psi. Then start to pull 1 degree out per pound of boost after 10psi. That should give you 18 degrees timing at 20psi which is plenty safe with 150 degree IAT's and 100% C16.
I bet just throwing a meth kit on will put you in the 8's at your current 17psi and 18 degree's of timing. You'd be surprised what the low IAT's with a properly tuned meth kit can do.
My car never hit's over 90 degree's.
Timing, I do it a lot different and get fast spool times. Street engines are a lot different than purpose built race cars. Too much timing will knock the bearings too much.
My car never hit's over 90 degree's.
Timing, I do it a lot different and get fast spool times. Street engines are a lot different than purpose built race cars. Too much timing will knock the bearings too much.
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So he took compression out until it shook the tires and put a click back in? Did it slow down, speed up or stay the same when he did that? Did it spin any after doing that?
Yes 11.8 is what I'd target on 20psi and 18 degrees of timing. How much boost are you launching on?
I'd try to leave on at least 24-26 degrees of timing and not pull any out until the converter has flashed and begun to grab the motor. Is there a dip in the rpm curve after the converter flashes or does it flat line any before it begins to climb? Pull the timing out of the tune slower off the hit if the track will take it and leave 28 degrees in it up to 10psi. Then start to pull 1 degree out per pound of boost after 10psi. That should give you 18 degrees timing at 20psi which is plenty safe with 150 degree IAT's and 100% C16.
Yes 11.8 is what I'd target on 20psi and 18 degrees of timing. How much boost are you launching on?
I'd try to leave on at least 24-26 degrees of timing and not pull any out until the converter has flashed and begun to grab the motor. Is there a dip in the rpm curve after the converter flashes or does it flat line any before it begins to climb? Pull the timing out of the tune slower off the hit if the track will take it and leave 28 degrees in it up to 10psi. Then start to pull 1 degree out per pound of boost after 10psi. That should give you 18 degrees timing at 20psi which is plenty safe with 150 degree IAT's and 100% C16.
But the tires keep spinning on the rim which is holding me back a little. I'm launching at 13psi everytime with the 2 step at 4300. I am going to try to raise the step up to about 4700 and try lower boost see how it does. Then higher boost. I just will play around till i find the best numbers. My track day would of found that but had the trans problems. So once thats fixed i'll be able to make more than 3-4 passes per time out. I have played with the tune for launch a little and I def noticed a difference with just leaning it out a little. I am trying to be careful as this motor is stock down to bolts and bearings. 28* up to 10psi def scares me haha. With C16 i'll be a little more aggressive but i want it to last till the end of the season and in time for Import vs Domestic.
Last edited by Camaro9969; Sep 10, 2013 at 07:19 AM.
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I bet just throwing a meth kit on will put you in the 8's at your current 17psi and 18 degree's of timing. You'd be surprised what the low IAT's with a properly tuned meth kit can do.
My car never hit's over 90 degree's.
Timing, I do it a lot different and get fast spool times. Street engines are a lot different than purpose built race cars. Too much timing will knock the bearings too much.
My car never hit's over 90 degree's.
Timing, I do it a lot different and get fast spool times. Street engines are a lot different than purpose built race cars. Too much timing will knock the bearings too much.
I agree I would rather keep the timing safe than knock this motor out early.
Last edited by Camaro9969; Sep 10, 2013 at 07:19 AM.
Try lowering rpm launch to say 3800-4000rpm. Higher is not always better. Keep the same 13psi.
You just keep shooting for power till it pops a gasket or bearing. I prefer to freeze inlet temp with higher octain than run octain to fight detination from inlet temp.
You just keep shooting for power till it pops a gasket or bearing. I prefer to freeze inlet temp with higher octain than run octain to fight detination from inlet temp.
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Ill try a few things with the 2 step. As for power I'm only adding to 21 psi Max and 16° timing. That's where I'll stop with this motor so whatever it runs will be it. 2 more degrees timing and 4 psi should be enough to get me where I need a chute. I dont like playing games with tech id rather just get a couple fast passes before I use the weather as my reason for a specific time slip. Guys running late October to chase a number lol
When a customer of mine added gear to run 1/4 mile with a car that makes more power than Doug's, it really needed more RPM and more timing on the leave to get it on it's heels.
Keep the timing at 20-22 up till 13-14psi if that's where you're launching. You will be surprised how much timing it likes on 100% C16 if you really start reading the plugs. If Stock48 can go 8.30's@160 with his 3350lb. Nova, you can go 8.60's with a 3650lb. F-body.
Only reason I'm saying this is because your car is hauling some serious hind end, but can still go faster and still has a ton of potential. I think you hurt the bearings the last time from changing rod bolts, and not from power either.
Keep the timing at 20-22 up till 13-14psi if that's where you're launching. You will be surprised how much timing it likes on 100% C16 if you really start reading the plugs. If Stock48 can go 8.30's@160 with his 3350lb. Nova, you can go 8.60's with a 3650lb. F-body.
Only reason I'm saying this is because your car is hauling some serious hind end, but can still go faster and still has a ton of potential. I think you hurt the bearings the last time from changing rod bolts, and not from power either.
