engine knock- first time i ran to 6k with the turbo
lol
.... 
03-16-2012, 08:37 AM
#26
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Especially on a stock block lt1..i had a perfect tune on my stock lt1 block and still broke pistons..it just amazes me that ppl dont want to tune on the dyno for turbo cars
03-16-2012, 10:31 AM
#29
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Salisbury MD
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nobody said get it DYNOtuned.. they just said get it TUNED... and the guy who said it be a bomb was referring to hot plugs and removing the knock sensor, and nothing about a tune... if your going to try and give some advice **use facts.
03-16-2012, 11:24 AM
#33
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The point is these 5.3's have proven to hold up pretty well. I have over 1500 miles on mine. Just changed the oil a second time and no signs of bearing wear. My entire running engine was $583 complete with wiring harness, pcm, alternator, starter, etc.. I used all of it.
College is expensive. This actually may be the cheapest way to go in the long run. If you blow it up, you can get another one and still sale the alternator, starter, harness, pcm and probably get most the money back. You would just be out of the labor time to do the swap.
Good luck. Hope this helps a little.
03-16-2012, 11:59 AM
#34
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (34)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From what Ive read, you can easily put 15 psi on a 5.3 and it will smile all day. That is of course with proper fuel and minimum supporting modes.
Im a college student, so a 5.3 is what ill play with for now. Looking to put around 20 psi on the little motor with the new magnum MT80.
This is a great thread shows what a completely stock 5.3 can do.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...highlight=gt45
Im a college student, so a 5.3 is what ill play with for now. Looking to put around 20 psi on the little motor with the new magnum MT80.
This is a great thread shows what a completely stock 5.3 can do.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...highlight=gt45
03-16-2012, 12:37 PM
#35
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Salisbury MD
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cool, good information here.. from what im reading the lt1 4l60 wont bolt up... i have a mess of money in my trans and that would be a big waste if there was not way to make that work... but also is there a way to get ac? this would not be my dd but it would still be nice to have ac..
03-16-2012, 12:38 PM
#36
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Salisbury MD
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FWIW I just built my first 5.3 with turbos. I daily drive my 69 Chevelle and put a running 5.3 with 64k in miles in it. I used my TH400 and old convertor. Sitll was able to almost use everything I had and almost everything that came with the new engine. I paid to have it tuned on the dyno like was mentioned. Then I could start playing with the tune on the street. It was tuned to hold together at WOT but runs a little rough on the street. lol I rape it on a daily basis at 15lbs of boost. I took it to the track for the first time last week and left off no boost and ran it to only 7lbs of boost and it ran 6.85 in the 1/8th. Then took her home.
The point is these 5.3's have proven to hold up pretty well. I have over 1500 miles on mine. Just changed the oil a second time and no signs of bearing wear. My entire running engine was $583 complete with wiring harness, pcm, alternator, starter, etc.. I used all of it.
College is expensive. This actually may be the cheapest way to go in the long run. If you blow it up, you can get another one and still sale the alternator, starter, harness, pcm and probably get most the money back. You would just be out of the labor time to do the swap.
Good luck. Hope this helps a little.
The point is these 5.3's have proven to hold up pretty well. I have over 1500 miles on mine. Just changed the oil a second time and no signs of bearing wear. My entire running engine was $583 complete with wiring harness, pcm, alternator, starter, etc.. I used all of it.
College is expensive. This actually may be the cheapest way to go in the long run. If you blow it up, you can get another one and still sale the alternator, starter, harness, pcm and probably get most the money back. You would just be out of the labor time to do the swap.
Good luck. Hope this helps a little.
thanks for the info! do you know how much power you car makes at 15lbs? also are you running the stock heads?
03-16-2012, 05:52 PM
#38
Yea, but I was just messing with you.
Sounds like you had a knock issue due to too much timing. If your car wasn't tuned for the added airflow from the turbo then the over timed issue becomes a really big problem because now your over timed and lean.
That combined with the hotter plugs you were running spelled disaster for you. My guess is the tops of at least one if not several of your pistons are gone along with the 1st ring land if not more. Most likely when the piston and ring land went it butted and bent the rod also taking out the bearing which is why it is knocking now.
Sounds like you had a knock issue due to too much timing. If your car wasn't tuned for the added airflow from the turbo then the over timed issue becomes a really big problem because now your over timed and lean.
That combined with the hotter plugs you were running spelled disaster for you. My guess is the tops of at least one if not several of your pistons are gone along with the 1st ring land if not more. Most likely when the piston and ring land went it butted and bent the rod also taking out the bearing which is why it is knocking now.
03-16-2012, 06:00 PM
#39
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Right around 600 to the wheels but we only ran it to 6k because only one pump was working. Realistically it is probably around 635-650rwhp. Nothing great but I drive it a lot.
03-16-2012, 08:02 PM
#40
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Salisbury MD
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea, but I was just messing with you.
Sounds like you had a knock issue due to too much timing. If your car wasn't tuned for the added airflow from the turbo then the over timed issue becomes a really big problem because now your over timed and lean.
That combined with the hotter plugs you were running spelled disaster for you. My guess is the tops of at least one if not several of your pistons are gone along with the 1st ring land if not more. Most likely when the piston and ring land went it butted and bent the rod also taking out the bearing which is why it is knocking now.
Sounds like you had a knock issue due to too much timing. If your car wasn't tuned for the added airflow from the turbo then the over timed issue becomes a really big problem because now your over timed and lean.
That combined with the hotter plugs you were running spelled disaster for you. My guess is the tops of at least one if not several of your pistons are gone along with the 1st ring land if not more. Most likely when the piston and ring land went it butted and bent the rod also taking out the bearing which is why it is knocking now.