Hot idle with vertical radiator?
04-27-2012, 11:22 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hot idle with vertical radiator? Anyone else having problems with running hot at idle with a vertical radiator? The car will run at 185º all day long thanks to the 160º thermostat, 55gpm electric water pump, 2500cfm flex-a-lite fans and 600hp Griffin radiator. With the hood up it'll idle at 185º, but with the hood closed, temps will rise to past 230º, granted it takes over 20-30 minutes of idling for it to get this high, which I don't do anyway. The problem is, with the fans/radiator vertical it has nowhere to push the hot air, except off the hot motor/turbo and back into the radiator. With the stock angled fans/radiator, it pushed the air under the car. I'm running a fiberglass SS hood without the airbox and cowl area cut out for improved strength. Can anything be done?
04-28-2012, 01:37 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: earth
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have a stand up griffin and havnt had any problems. granted i havnt let it idle for a half hour but my cheap ebay pusher fans even on low keep the motor steady at 190 with the stock thermostat if i keep them on with hptuners and sitting for 15 minutes. The hot air behind the radiator shouldnt matter as long as your pushing/pulling cool air through the radiator. are you sure your fans are working well?
just a picture because i finally made the radiator mount today.. lol. camera on phone was dirty.
just a picture because i finally made the radiator mount today.. lol. camera on phone was dirty.
04-29-2012, 06:41 AM
#6
Launching!
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Groton, CT.
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
X2 for the fans... I had the same radiator with two 1000cfm pushers. It wouldn't stay on the thermostat standing still. I recently upgraded to the 19" high 1.5" dual pass Griffin with a Derale 17" 2 speed fan, and everything is perfect now. I also believe you need to put a better or larger fan on the radiator.
04-29-2012, 01:24 PM
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There isn't any more room for a thicker fan. Its already up against the turbo as is. I may be able to get a taller fan, but these fans are almost perfect as far as width and thickness. And there isn't any room in the front due to the tranny cooler and hood latch.
I have the bottom feeder scoop thingy under the radiator, but I don't have the divider thing that goes in front of the radiator, I don't see how that would make a difference in cooling, in fact it may hurt cooling at cruising speeds. I think the radiator is more than enough for this current combo. Its larger than most vertical radiator setups. Its even taller than the stock radiator, as well as much thicker. What wants are you guys using? I've only got about 2.625" between the back of the radiator and the turbo.
I have the bottom feeder scoop thingy under the radiator, but I don't have the divider thing that goes in front of the radiator, I don't see how that would make a difference in cooling, in fact it may hurt cooling at cruising speeds. I think the radiator is more than enough for this current combo. Its larger than most vertical radiator setups. Its even taller than the stock radiator, as well as much thicker. What wants are you guys using? I've only got about 2.625" between the back of the radiator and the turbo.
Trending Topics
04-29-2012, 02:41 PM
#8
There isn't any more room for a thicker fan. Its already up against the turbo as is. I may be able to get a taller fan, but these fans are almost perfect as far as width and thickness. And there isn't any room in the front due to the tranny cooler and hood latch.
I have the bottom feeder scoop thingy under the radiator, but I don't have the divider thing that goes in front of the radiator, I don't see how that would make a difference in cooling, in fact it may hurt cooling at cruising speeds. I think the radiator is more than enough for this current combo. Its larger than most vertical radiator setups. Its even taller than the stock radiator, as well as much thicker. What wants are you guys using? I've only got about 2.625" between the back of the radiator and the turbo.
I have the bottom feeder scoop thingy under the radiator, but I don't have the divider thing that goes in front of the radiator, I don't see how that would make a difference in cooling, in fact it may hurt cooling at cruising speeds. I think the radiator is more than enough for this current combo. Its larger than most vertical radiator setups. Its even taller than the stock radiator, as well as much thicker. What wants are you guys using? I've only got about 2.625" between the back of the radiator and the turbo.
04-29-2012, 03:23 PM
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't want to make it run warmer while driving, which is what pushers do. The problem is not the fans, but nowhere for the heat to go but back into the radiator, I've confirmed this by opening the hood and seeing temps cool down to 185º.
04-29-2012, 03:39 PM
#10
I've got a hard time believing that the underhood temps are >230* to cause your temp to go to 230*.
If you think that's the problem, mount a fan horizontally at the bottom of the engine bay to suck the air out. By you're logic, that should work perfect.
If you think that's the problem, mount a fan horizontally at the bottom of the engine bay to suck the air out. By you're logic, that should work perfect.
04-29-2012, 03:50 PM
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It gets damn damned hot under the hood. I have ceramic coated headers and turbo tubing, but I probably should have wrapped them also. I was thinking about another fan to suck the air out, but don't think it would work out to well.
04-29-2012, 03:53 PM
#12
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont have any issues. but i run a 160 stat, and I am on E85. with only two 1000 cfm pusher fans..
heavy stop and go traffic on a 90 degree day it will creep close to 200..... but thats an extreme situation.
heavy stop and go traffic on a 90 degree day it will creep close to 200..... but thats an extreme situation.
04-29-2012, 06:17 PM
#14
Launching!
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Groton, CT.
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What about removing the rubber gasket on the cowl cover, and putting some small spacers under the hood hinges? Just get the rear of the hood up enough to let the air flow out from underneath? I left the cowl rubber off, but my car never sees rain.
04-30-2012, 07:49 AM
#16
Launching!
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Groton, CT.
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, but let's remember that the point of the fans is to create the airflow necessary to transfer heat when the car isn't moving. His data shows that with the hood open the fans are adequate. Assuming this is 100% the case it proves that the fans create enough airflow through the radiator core to cool the engine (hood open). When the hood is closed the pressure differential across the fans increase and they lose efficiency/flow. I think the problem could be solved by either installing new fans which are more efficient at higher pressures, or decreasing the pressure by venting the engine compartment. If there is no space constraints slapping a new bigger badder fan in is certainly the way I would attack the problem. I know I just spent a couple months cutting and fabricating to fit a larger fan, so perhaps venting the engine compartment is worth a try?
04-30-2012, 10:14 AM
#17
Yes, but let's remember that the point of the fans is to create the airflow necessary to transfer heat when the car isn't moving. His data shows that with the hood open the fans are adequate. Assuming this is 100% the case it proves that the fans create enough airflow through the radiator core to cool the engine (hood open). When the hood is closed the pressure differential across the fans increase and they lose efficiency/flow. I think the problem could be solved by either installing new fans which are more efficient at higher pressures, or decreasing the pressure by venting the engine compartment. If there is no space constraints slapping a new bigger badder fan in is certainly the way I would attack the problem. I know I just spent a couple months cutting and fabricating to fit a larger fan, so perhaps venting the engine compartment is worth a try?
if his fans can't cool at idle, he needs new ones. theres no pressure in the engine bay. everything is just getting heat soaked. when he opens the hood it helps, but thats because the fans aren't moving enough air.
p.s. i just dynod the car the other day in 100+ degree weather. we made about 15 WOT pulls anywhere from 800-1000+ rwhp with only a little blower fan at the front of the car, and it never overheated. I then drove home in bumper to bumper california traffic. The fans came on almost the entire time I was in traffic.
I only have 2 10" SPAL pusher fans, but they flow a lot of air.
08-29-2012, 09:16 PM
#18
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lynchburg, Va
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
not to bring up an old topic, but my car will creep up just the same, if i bleed the steam hose of air and hook it back up it runs cool again. and after driving again it will start to creep after letting it idle in traffic or anything at idle. then i can see the steam hose doesnt have water flowing out (looking at the radiator the water will swirl when its moving water and nothing when its not pushing water.) the car doesnt push water but at idle it pressurizes the hoses more than i would like. any ideas? my hoses look like balloons but there are no bubbles showing a blown head gasket and the car still makes good power on e85 and doesnt push water to the resirvoir. if not for this i would be able to cruise the car again. i still do but have to try hard to avoid traffic.
specs are griffin stand up, 2 10" pushers,e85 turbo and 11# car makes 600/626 on 10# running BigStuff3,through a good stalled 4l80e/9" conservative on timing (17*) the heating issue has been present every since the radiator swap... even when i first put the car together.
specs are griffin stand up, 2 10" pushers,e85 turbo and 11# car makes 600/626 on 10# running BigStuff3,through a good stalled 4l80e/9" conservative on timing (17*) the heating issue has been present every since the radiator swap... even when i first put the car together.
