RMCR 50mm Cog Belt Issue
#21
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The belt is over a 1/4 inch away from the water pump. The picture makes it look closer than it is.
The belt is close, but we have not seen it move and I have almost 50 pulls on the dyno and very heavy street driving and it is working fine. We tried several idler combos and did not find one that I liked and still gave the belt wrap on the top pulley we were looking for.
We even ran the belt loose to just see if I could get it to touch and it never did.
This was with a 81 & 28 Combo.
The belt is close, but we have not seen it move and I have almost 50 pulls on the dyno and very heavy street driving and it is working fine. We tried several idler combos and did not find one that I liked and still gave the belt wrap on the top pulley we were looking for.
We even ran the belt loose to just see if I could get it to touch and it never did.
This was with a 81 & 28 Combo.
Last edited by MikeRMCR; 10-18-2012 at 09:28 AM.
#22
9 Second Club
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@ Ivan ? heather lines ? DO you mean you want a pump with no heater pipes ? Cant you simply plug them ?
@ Mike, the comment about the water pump is slightly irrelevant. I wasnt saying the belt would touch, just that using the pump with the shorter pulley makes a huge difference to clearance and general access in there.
I only did it myself recently after seeing it mentioned in the Aster bracket group buy thing.
The huge bell pulley on the older engines is just stupid.
I guess through testing the belts do not touch, but in the land of the general public...is there a specific tension required to ensure this doesnt happen ?
I only query as any videos Ive seen online of blower engines on a dyno, the long side of the belt orbits wildly during use.
Here is just one example. I'm not knocking your setup in any way. My own is very similar although the blower is placed lower and more to the right. My belt paths also run quite close and whilst they havent made contact, it is still a concern. Although I do have a smooth idler on the outside of the belt to contain orbiting otherwise the belt could hit my boost pipe which sits below it.
Ive only just doubled up my own bracket too to ensure rigidity
This video is on a dyno only, I'd think a manual car like mine on the street would be much harder on a cogged belt. I'm on 85/28
@ Mike, the comment about the water pump is slightly irrelevant. I wasnt saying the belt would touch, just that using the pump with the shorter pulley makes a huge difference to clearance and general access in there.
I only did it myself recently after seeing it mentioned in the Aster bracket group buy thing.
The huge bell pulley on the older engines is just stupid.
I guess through testing the belts do not touch, but in the land of the general public...is there a specific tension required to ensure this doesnt happen ?
I only query as any videos Ive seen online of blower engines on a dyno, the long side of the belt orbits wildly during use.
Here is just one example. I'm not knocking your setup in any way. My own is very similar although the blower is placed lower and more to the right. My belt paths also run quite close and whilst they havent made contact, it is still a concern. Although I do have a smooth idler on the outside of the belt to contain orbiting otherwise the belt could hit my boost pipe which sits below it.
Ive only just doubled up my own bracket too to ensure rigidity
This video is on a dyno only, I'd think a manual car like mine on the street would be much harder on a cogged belt. I'm on 85/28
#23
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@ Ivan ? heather lines ? DO you mean you want a pump with no heater pipes ? Cant you simply plug them ?
@ Mike, the comment about the water pump is slightly irrelevant. I wasnt saying the belt would touch, just that using the pump with the shorter pulley makes a huge difference to clearance and general access in there.
I only did it myself recently after seeing it mentioned in the Aster bracket group buy thing.
The huge bell pulley on the older engines is just stupid.
I guess through testing the belts do not touch, but in the land of the general public...is there a specific tension required to ensure this doesnt happen ?
I only query as any videos Ive seen online of blower engines on a dyno, the long side of the belt orbits wildly during use.
Here is just one example. I'm not knocking your setup in any way. My own is very similar although the blower is placed lower and more to the right. My belt paths also run quite close and whilst they havent made contact, it is still a concern. Although I do have a smooth idler on the outside of the belt to contain orbiting otherwise the belt could hit my boost pipe which sits below it.
Ive only just doubled up my own bracket too to ensure rigidity
This video is on a dyno only, I'd think a manual car like mine on the street would be much harder on a cogged belt. I'm on 85/28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuuqT6zJ6FQ
@ Mike, the comment about the water pump is slightly irrelevant. I wasnt saying the belt would touch, just that using the pump with the shorter pulley makes a huge difference to clearance and general access in there.
I only did it myself recently after seeing it mentioned in the Aster bracket group buy thing.
The huge bell pulley on the older engines is just stupid.
I guess through testing the belts do not touch, but in the land of the general public...is there a specific tension required to ensure this doesnt happen ?
I only query as any videos Ive seen online of blower engines on a dyno, the long side of the belt orbits wildly during use.
Here is just one example. I'm not knocking your setup in any way. My own is very similar although the blower is placed lower and more to the right. My belt paths also run quite close and whilst they havent made contact, it is still a concern. Although I do have a smooth idler on the outside of the belt to contain orbiting otherwise the belt could hit my boost pipe which sits below it.
Ive only just doubled up my own bracket too to ensure rigidity
This video is on a dyno only, I'd think a manual car like mine on the street would be much harder on a cogged belt. I'm on 85/28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuuqT6zJ6FQ
As far as belt tension we run them so if you run a straight edge from the SC pulley to the crank pulley and push inward on the belt that you get 1/4 to 1/2 inch movement.
Sadly there is really only so much we can do. There is only one belt from gates that is even close. The belt jumps in huge increments both smaller and larger from the one we are using.
This was why we had the idlers on it originally. But, after talking with one of Vortechs head engineers, this was part of the problem. He said this supercharger takes almost 90 HP plus to spin at full speed. It takes about 12 teeth contact on the belt to transfer this energy or the belt will break. The old setup was on about 10 teeth with the idlers. With this new setup we are sitting at 16 teeth contact on the SC pulley.
With the larger SC pulleys or a larger crank pulley the distance would be better on the belt, but we have seen no issue with the 81T/ 28T combo we are running.
We are in the process of making a mid engine mounted bracket set up that will be modular and except from the V7 gear case to the new V-24 cases.
Vortech has some new compressors that are flowing over 2000 CFM now and we would like to take advantage of them. I just wanted to get these working right and send new versions to our customers that have already purchased before we started a new project.
Here are some better pics of the brackets.
#24
9 Second Club
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It doesnt look quite so close in those photos. It's probably very similar to my own.
I'm using the 1600mm long belt, my blower is placed down where the GTO kits would be. Although I'm not using Gates, using an equivalent to their GT3 though.
I did try a cheaper belt after having some alignment problems as I chewed a lot of GT3's and it was getting expensive lol
The cheap belt when alignment was resolved lasted 2 days before stripping all the teeth.
the belt I'm using now is working great though.
I'd like more info on the new blowers. I'd heard a rumour there is to be a new unit that flows substantially more than the YSi, but will fit into the same bracketry. Although the volute will be larger with diff inlet/discharge.
The likes of the XB105 looks fantastic, but that damn gear case is huge and would require all new brackets.
I'm using the 1600mm long belt, my blower is placed down where the GTO kits would be. Although I'm not using Gates, using an equivalent to their GT3 though.
I did try a cheaper belt after having some alignment problems as I chewed a lot of GT3's and it was getting expensive lol
The cheap belt when alignment was resolved lasted 2 days before stripping all the teeth.
the belt I'm using now is working great though.
I'd like more info on the new blowers. I'd heard a rumour there is to be a new unit that flows substantially more than the YSi, but will fit into the same bracketry. Although the volute will be larger with diff inlet/discharge.
The likes of the XB105 looks fantastic, but that damn gear case is huge and would require all new brackets.
#26
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We are using the gates 1512 length. I too have tried other brands and the gates seem to last the longest.
You are right on the rumor. Vortech does have a new SC coming out that they are calling a F2 killer. It is close to YSi size and will flow 2000+ CFM. Should be available in the spring time. We are going to do a mid mounted setup with a CCW rotation unit.
You are right on the rumor. Vortech does have a new SC coming out that they are calling a F2 killer. It is close to YSi size and will flow 2000+ CFM. Should be available in the spring time. We are going to do a mid mounted setup with a CCW rotation unit.
#27
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
@ Ivan ? heather lines ? DO you mean you want a pump with no heater pipes ? Cant you simply plug them ?
@ Mike, the comment about the water pump is slightly irrelevant. I wasnt saying the belt would touch, just that using the pump with the shorter pulley makes a huge difference to clearance and general access in there.
I only did it myself recently after seeing it mentioned in the Aster bracket group buy thing.
The huge bell pulley on the older engines is just stupid.
I guess through testing the belts do not touch, but in the land of the general public...is there a specific tension required to ensure this doesnt happen ?
I only query as any videos Ive seen online of blower engines on a dyno, the long side of the belt orbits wildly during use.
Here is just one example. I'm not knocking your setup in any way. My own is very similar although the blower is placed lower and more to the right. My belt paths also run quite close and whilst they havent made contact, it is still a concern. Although I do have a smooth idler on the outside of the belt to contain orbiting otherwise the belt could hit my boost pipe which sits below it.
Ive only just doubled up my own bracket too to ensure rigidity
This video is on a dyno only, I'd think a manual car like mine on the street would be much harder on a cogged belt. I'm on 85/28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuuqT6zJ6FQ
@ Mike, the comment about the water pump is slightly irrelevant. I wasnt saying the belt would touch, just that using the pump with the shorter pulley makes a huge difference to clearance and general access in there.
I only did it myself recently after seeing it mentioned in the Aster bracket group buy thing.
The huge bell pulley on the older engines is just stupid.
I guess through testing the belts do not touch, but in the land of the general public...is there a specific tension required to ensure this doesnt happen ?
I only query as any videos Ive seen online of blower engines on a dyno, the long side of the belt orbits wildly during use.
Here is just one example. I'm not knocking your setup in any way. My own is very similar although the blower is placed lower and more to the right. My belt paths also run quite close and whilst they havent made contact, it is still a concern. Although I do have a smooth idler on the outside of the belt to contain orbiting otherwise the belt could hit my boost pipe which sits below it.
Ive only just doubled up my own bracket too to ensure rigidity
This video is on a dyno only, I'd think a manual car like mine on the street would be much harder on a cogged belt. I'm on 85/28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuuqT6zJ6FQ
#28
9 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We are using the gates 1512 length. I too have tried other brands and the gates seem to last the longest.
You are right on the rumor. Vortech does have a new SC coming out that they are calling a F2 killer. It is close to YSi size and will flow 2000+ CFM. Should be available in the spring time. We are going to do a mid mounted setup with a CCW rotation unit.
You are right on the rumor. Vortech does have a new SC coming out that they are calling a F2 killer. It is close to YSi size and will flow 2000+ CFM. Should be available in the spring time. We are going to do a mid mounted setup with a CCW rotation unit.
Pricewise there was little between them though. The GT3 was actually slightly cheaper.
Spring....hmm, I had heard late this year. The sooner the better, as I'd definitely upgrade unless it's a silly price.
Maybe the likes of the Evans pumps might be the best, although when I was looking for a shorter pump a while back they didnt have any stock and were having some manufacturing issues so couldnt say when they would have.