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Pro's/Cons of building an iron 408 vs my 347 for D1SC

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Old 06-28-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ZexGX
I went with the forged 347 route due to weight and cost, although for the money I spent to rebuild my LS1 as a 347, I could have bought a used forged iron 370-390. I will be lowering the compression down with new heads (instead of extremely milled 241s for NA use) and installing a D1SC w/3.4" blower pulley, 7.25" crank pulley, and a very good belt tensioner setup. I have the headunit and pullies, need to fab cold side, buy fuel system, T56 swap+build, and 9" rear end.

Nice setup. Any more info on the heads? I'm in the market for some and would like to know the specs of the Patriots you went with and if the engine is o-ringed:
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347ci fully forged built by Mike @ Rapid Motorsports
Patriot Stage 3 heads with gold double valve springs
ECS Blower Cam
TSP Ported/shimmed LS6 Oil Pump (50psi at idle)
Rollmaster Double Roller Timing Chain
Chromemoly Pushrods
ARP Head studs, rodbolts, mains, etc. throughout entire motor
LS6 intake
Custom crank case ventilation setup with AN -10 lines and 2 Moroso catch cans with breathers
Powdercoated Valve Covers

A&A/custom F1 Procharger setup w/4.0" Pulley
A&A Latest Procharger Bracket
4" Powdercoated Charge/Intake Piping with huge K&N filter
Procharger Big Red Race Valve
A&A 8-Rib Setup with Innovators West 8" 10% OD Balancer

RSI/Custom Fuel System with billet hat and twin in-tank pumps, all black fuel lines, filters, and fittings.
Speed INC High Flow Fuel Rails
Fuel Lab Fuel Pressure Regulator w/ Carbon Fiber Gauge
83#/hr Motoron Fuel Injectors

AIS Trunk Mounted Boost Referenced Methanol System w/ stainless braided line. Has progressive controller and holds 1.5 gallons.

New Optima Red Top

Kooks 1 7/8" Longtube Headers
Kooks 3X3" Off-Road X pipe
B&B Bullet Exhaust

Built M12 with Textrallia Twin Disc Clutch


im not sure about the heads .... they are holding great and the car hauls *** when asked to ..... mike built the engine and he uses that head on his fi stuff... great engine tho
Old 06-28-2012, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by vmapper
Forged crank? why do many say its not needed, that stock is fine?
what has the OP decided?
Many say that a lot of things aren't needed... But a Procharger puts a lot of stress on the crank. I would like that extra precaution added in there. If I don't have the cash to do it correctly the first time, I don't have the cash to do it wrong a second time.

Stock bottom end boost levels, I wouldn't worry about it... Anything over 12# with a D1 and I would go with a forged crank.

With a turbo or nitrous stock crank wouldn't worry me.
Old 06-28-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Many say that a lot of things aren't needed... But a Procharger puts a lot of stress on the crank. I would like that extra precaution added in there. If I don't have the cash to do it correctly the first time, I don't have the cash to do it wrong a second time.

Stock bottom end boost levels, I wouldn't worry about it... Anything over 12# with a D1 and I would go with a forged crank.

With a turbo or nitrous stock crank wouldn't worry me.
How does a Procharger at 12#+ put more stress on the crank than a turbo at 12#? I'm new to this, so I'm just wondering. I went with a stock crank on my build under the assumption that it would be fine with anything short of 800whp.
Old 06-28-2012, 04:44 PM
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My guess is, nose stress via the belt...
But I would have thought stock crank would not be an issue.



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