chevyforlife

iTrader: (1)

My car is a 2000 z28 with a tc-78 turbo and Long story short this is my 4th engine and not because of this problem. but since I put this one in which is a 6.0 with forged internals and 317s for heads, I all of a sudden have a overheating problem.I did not touch nor change anything related to the cooling system. And I know I got the air bled out and stuff along those lines this ain't my first time filling the system. My temps use to be 180-190 with a 160 t-stat but now they are 210-240 might get hotter but I kill it first.
I do have the griffin radiator required for standing it up have always had it

Things I have checked

1. I looked though water pump ports to make sure head gaskets are on right and which they are.
2. I replaced the t-stat with a oem one.
3. I replaced the radiator cap.
4. I added two pusher fans along with one current puller.
5. Jacked the front of car up with filling funnel on radiator and ran till it got to temp with heat on high.

Car is still Gettin up past 212 at idle can someone please help me out my next choose is to pull the heads and hope I see something. And so you don't ask I built motor along with the last three I'm not sayin I'm good but I know my car and have never had this

Oh and when I shut it off you can feel it gargling in the upper hose and if the cap is on then all the hoses get rock hard after you shut it off.

Any help would be awesome ls1tech has always had the info I needed but this one is kickin my ***.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

I know you said you've bled the air out of the system but sometimes it can be a pain in the *** to get the air bled out of these cars. Can you feel the thermostat opening? Put your hand on the top radiator hose, you should feel coolant flowing through it. If not you have air in the system. The thermostat will not open if there is air on the back side of it. Try cracking your coolant cross over lines loose on your heads.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

What is your a/f/ ratio? Vacuum leak maybe?


That is because its hot.

chevyforlife

iTrader: (1)

There is no way there is air in it I filled blocked tho the upper hose with the steam vents off then filled radiator and ran for 30 min all hoses got hot and the afr's at idle are around 13.5-15. it "was" lean but I reflashed it and it's not anymore cause I was thinkin that could of been the problem. I had to use a different block this time around and one head but I had them checked out and surfaced I work at a machine shop so I don't think it could be a crack somewhere.

Fondle

iTrader: (4)

i bet the pusher fans are doing more harm then good, I had 2 pushers on my car and it would over heat in a few minutes sitting in my driveway or driving around, after i removed them it was night and day difference. The pusher fans are blocking the air from getting into the radiator and messing it up

chevyforlife

iTrader: (1)

It got just as hot before the extra fans so I don't think that's the problem

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

Deleted

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Instead of focusing on the cooling system, have you thought about what could be creating additional heat?

What was your old setup and it the exact same as this one?

miatainthe10s

I have seen waterpump impellors fall off in import applications. Check for flow. Just a thought.

Moter

iTrader: (20)

Since this is happening at idle...keep an eye on the temp. As it heats up run cold water across the radiator...see what happens with the temp. If you have an infared thermometer..measure the temp in several spots across the radiator.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

A couple "outside the box" ??'s.
1. Turbo dragging, exh system plugged, causing hi exh gas back psi? [Still have the cat[s] on it?]
2. What is the MAP @ idle, & KOEO?
3. Idle timing?

As for idling @212*...Is that with the OEM stat? [My truck runs @ that temp w/ the OEM stat]