Breaking in FI motor
Breaking in FI motor I'm about to fire my block up for the first time and was wondering if I should even hook up my D-1 to it. I will not be going over 3000 rpm but needed to know what other people that are FI do when breaking in their motors.
Thanks
Thanks
If you can, run it with varying rpm and light loads on the street for a couple hundred miles to break in the rings. Ive taken a fresh 6.0 directly to the chassis dyno for tuning without break in without issues though.
Ok thanks but does it matter if the procharger is on it?
according to the majority on here the consensus is to vary the rpms and lots of engine breaking. Just make sure you get into it hard because the rings break in very quickly and it is imparitive you do this within the first 100-250 miles. If someone disagrees that is there opinion, I also was under the assumption you "baby it" for some many hundred miles before you go wot but many say thats the opposite of what you want to do. I have also done lots of searching and everyones opinion will vary on this topic but again this is the consensus of many people saying get into it decently hard in the beginning vs babying the car.
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What is there to break in? Rings break in instantly... Take that thing out and put it to the floor. Engines dont travel miles so thats meaningless.
I thought only ricers "break" stuff in. Seems to be the excuse they all have why they run their mouths and then cant race... lol.
I thought only ricers "break" stuff in. Seems to be the excuse they all have why they run their mouths and then cant race... lol.
I agree. I let it go through a couple full heat cycles in the first day. Let it get hot,let it cool all the way down. Then its on. I mainly do that for the valve springs.
Probably doesn't make to much of a differance but why not.
Probably doesn't make to much of a differance but why not.
Break in time is not just for the rings. Small air bubbles work themselves out of the cooling system, small particles in the oil that should get changed out before going all out, etc etc.
This is one the automotive worlds greatest debates lol. I agree with what most the others have said and its what I did but once again, its a personal choice. I started my motor...let it idle for about 30 seconds to make sure there were no leaks or major issues and then slowly ran it from about 2K up to 4K and back down varrying rpm. Rings seat quickly under pressure so its important you don't let it idle for to long. I drove it up to my tuner the next am, got it tuned and ran his new 5.0 while my car was still N/A lol. It put down 370rwhp lol I try and change the oil after 100 and then 500 miles to make sure most of the metal particles have been removed. I also used Joe Gibbs break in oil with ZDDP.
Edit: I ran it without the blower but only because I was still waiting on parts. I would have ran it with if I had what I needed.
Edit: I ran it without the blower but only because I was still waiting on parts. I would have ran it with if I had what I needed.
When I purchase my engine from AES I had them break it in on their run stand. This way it could be installed and thrown on the dyno without any issues. So far with 4200 miles on the engine and D1SC @ 13psi no problems what so ever.
Th most important thing for break in is having a proper tune up. If you are nailing the tune up fast then you should be ruining it just how you want to all the time.
Best thing is to start it up get oil and coolant up to temp and start making pulls with a good tune up, while monitoring everything in a closed environment. Preferably on the engine dyno or on the chassis dyno if the engine dyno is not a choice.
Best thing is to start it up get oil and coolant up to temp and start making pulls with a good tune up, while monitoring everything in a closed environment. Preferably on the engine dyno or on the chassis dyno if the engine dyno is not a choice.
Th most important thing for break in is having a proper tune up. If you are nailing the tune up fast then you should be ruining it just how you want to all the time.
Best thing is to start it up get oil and coolant up to temp and start making pulls with a good tune up, while monitoring everything in a closed environment. Preferably on the engine dyno or on the chassis dyno if the engine dyno is not a choice.
Best thing is to start it up get oil and coolant up to temp and start making pulls with a good tune up, while monitoring everything in a closed environment. Preferably on the engine dyno or on the chassis dyno if the engine dyno is not a choice.