6.0 Ls2 arp studded -$3740 into it
Truck manifolds-60$
Turbo kit +intercooler + intercooler piping-2000$
Pt 7675 - $1200
Tial 44 WG- 375$
Deka 60 injectors-400$
Fuel pressure regulator and -10 fuel line 260$
Various fittings - 150$
Fuel filter - $100
Dual GSS 34 pumps- 250$
Wideband - 250$
Catchcan/pcv setup - 100$
Pusher fans - 150$
wiring for fuel pumps/fans-60$
Tune- 300$

That is just hat I can think off off the top of my head it is not including my other guages and hardware store runs. Other little gaskets here and there. I am sure another 1000$ would add right up if I sat and thought about it.


$9395 total- real life prices to do boost right. From a stock 5.7 to a boosted Gen4. That is not totally budget by any means but it is done correctley and was all done in a few months. That is what the real life cost from the time you take the car apart until it actually runs right. That isnt including trans that is at least another 3k no matter auto or manual by the time its done with a converter or clutch depending on the setup. 2k MINIMUM for rear end/components. another 2-3k depending on the suspension you want. Than theres tires and fuel and oil. It is just too expensive lol. Take it from someone that is new to this I did not expect to spend this much at all. This nickel and dimes you to no end. Once the car is apart or you start the project than its got you by the ***** until its done. To do this right you need about 10k to play with. Its just what it takes. I tried doing it all for under 4k. I ran over budget FAST.

I bet a 5.3 would have been a little cheaper but to make decent power and be safe on a stock or stock-ish engine it still would need all the same supporting mods. I probably could have saved 1500-2k but I wanted to get to the 4"bore

 

Good reading.. This further proves i am not ready for a turbo build yet...

 

Ah don't give up now you could always work two jobs like me , anyways I went 6.0 because I knew the car would be on the heavy side.

 

Yeah it is interesting to read everything here. I picked up an aluminum 5.3 shortblock for $350 with 30K miles on it. Mainly for the price it was a no brainer to have a standby engine since my LS1 build is from 2003 and still running strong. It is still siiting in my garage waiting for my Forged LS1 to give up. After reading all the turbo stories I am sure glad I stuck with my trusty P1SC combo.

 

just take your time building your setup..ive been building mine for over a year. its given me time to buy the right parts and not go broke doing it and its given me time to smooth and repaint my engine bay and hide all of my wires..

 

So these junkyard 5.3's. are you guys looking for a certain year ('05+ with ls2 style rods/iron or alum) and just running the stock long block with maybe some studs, rod bolts, cam, and springs/pushrods/trunion. Or are you guys just running it stock until it blows up. It's one thing I suppose to say you are running a $300 motor, but what do you guys do to make the motor more ready is what I'm asking. I forged my ls1 and did all the upgrades to make it handle 20psi or more, but honestly if this motor goes then I'm in for a 5.3.

 

Doesn't the 5.3L have a shorter stroke too? If so, can't you theoretically spin them higher?

 

Ive known people that put for sale their 5.3 motors for $300 bucks here in the Houston area, great place to buy cheap 4.8s and 5.3s for a very low price.

 

long story short, we are all car hipsters and its more fun to say you have a 5.3 or a 4.8 laying down 600+ for 200 dollars than tout about a 6.0 laying down 600.

cant tell you how many times everyone thought our turbo truck that went 10.8s off the foot brake must have had a iron 370 or 408 LS stroker in it,

**** was a stock 4.8 lol

 

Around me a 6.0 is about $400 more than a 5.3. And the 5.3 will do everything I am wanting it to do. It will give me a reliable 600-700hp at the crank, I can DD it, keep the boost low for DD tasks and then on the weekend crank it up and have my fun. I personally have no use for the 6.0, for me it won't do anything something cheaper will. And you guys that buy all this high dollar **** have too much damn money lol. I'm utilizing stock parts, 241 heads for the bigger chamber(more boost) and better ports, the truck intake performs very similarly to the LS6 so I'm keeping it, injectors...it's a necessary evil not cheaping out on them, I will however stud my heads and I have arp rod bolts, I will however rock out a ebay wastegate and BOV they have been proven to work fine. You can spend as much or as little as you want to build a reliable vehicle, it's just a matter of how much complaining you want to do. Yes you can buy the more expensive parts and have the "insurance" and the name but, if something cheaper has been proven to do the job just as well I plan on using it. You choose to let it nickle and dime you to death or research and buy what you gotta have. I've taken into account the cost of exhaust hangers, clamps, misc. bolts, nuts, and screws, fuel hose/line, metal that will be needed to make mounts, etc.

 

this is a pretty good question. In certain areas I have seen the 6.0 go for pretty much the same as a 5.3. If that was the case I would definitely choose 6.0. to me the 6.0 has a very unique tone. I can usually tell if a motor is a LQ4. Not to mention the 6.0 will spool a turbo a lot faster.

 

Cant find any 6.0 around here so im picking a 5.3 up today. Do they make a good off the shelf piston/rod for the 5.3? Gonna keep the stock crank in it. Thanks

 

Like they said there cheaper. I finally found a 6.0 that was cheap from a friend for 500.00.There's alot more 5.3's out there than 6.0's.

 

agreed completely lol

 

It seems to me that there is a common thread of 4.8s doing the most impressive things and laying down the best numbers...