Best crank to use for 800hp procharged car
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Will most likely be running an F1D Procharger at 800rwhp through a T56. What crank will be able to hold the power reliably? This will be mostly a street car that sees highway pulls and the drag strip few times a year. I found a sweet deal on an LQ9 ironblock so that's probably what I will use.
Stock LQ9 crank
Callies C-Series Crankshaft
Dragon Slayer
Stock LQ9 crank
Callies C-Series Crankshaft
Dragon Slayer
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car will probably only see 6500rpms. I heard the prochargers put a lot more stress on the crank. Dragonslayer is a nice piece but pricey. I don't want to get it unless its really needed.
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I just went with a Compstar 4.0 crank. I was told they will safely handle 1100-1200 "supercharged" rear wheel HP with no issues. Yes supercharged HP and turbo charged HP is completely different... You are really making a lot more HP at the the crank with the super charger....but the supercharger itself is eating up a ton of power so you never see it in the car.....Still a lot more load on the crank though... Not to mention the stress on the snout.
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Seen a lot of cars 800+RWHP on the stock crank with H beams and a good piston, make sure you use ARP 2000 rod bolts, and ARP studs for the mains and heads and it will live a long life.
The crank in my LQ9 is the original from my LS 110K on it. The last 30K have been 680+RWHP. I recently switched to the bigger turbo and will be taking it 800+RWHP.
The crank in my LQ9 is the original from my LS 110K on it. The last 30K have been 680+RWHP. I recently switched to the bigger turbo and will be taking it 800+RWHP.
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I just went with a Compstar 4.0 crank. I was told they will safely handle 1100-1200 "supercharged" rear wheel HP with no issues. Yes supercharged HP and turbo charged HP is completely different... You are really making a lot more HP at the the crank with the super charger....but the supercharger itself is eating up a ton of power so you never see it in the car.....Still a lot more load on the crank though... Not to mention the stress on the snout.
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I'm running the stock crank in my F1/370 combo but wouldn't venture with too much more boost. The nice thing is that the aster bracket doesn't load the snout of the crank the same way a traditional bracet does. To keep enough belt tension on a standard bracket, you need to crank way the heck down on it causing a lot of stress and strain on the snout and thrust bearing. With the aster bracket, it doesn't have nearly as much strain on it since its using a automatic spring tensoiner. I also only spin the motor to 6500 or so. It's great for a budget build but you can also get a forged crank cheap enough for that added insurance. Either way with good machining and assembley procedures you should be fine.
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Seen a lot of cars 800+RWHP on the stock crank with H beams and a good piston, make sure you use ARP 2000 rod bolts, and ARP studs for the mains and heads and it will live a long life.
The crank in my LQ9 is the original from my LS 110K on it. The last 30K have been 680+RWHP. I recently switched to the bigger turbo and will be taking it 800+RWHP.
The crank in my LQ9 is the original from my LS 110K on it. The last 30K have been 680+RWHP. I recently switched to the bigger turbo and will be taking it 800+RWHP.
AES 390ci LQ9
Callies C-Series Crankshaft
Compstar H-Beam Rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts
Diamond forced induction pistons
Heavy wall wrist pins
Steel top ring set
H-series Bearings
ARP main studs
Head studs
(most likely PRC 237cc heads)
I'm thinking that will get me 800rwhp and still be plenty safe.
Good to know! Thanks!