I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

the top of the line 4l60 in my opinion is the RPM level 7. I think around 700-800 is the limit for one of these. It still is going to need a rebuild every few years depending on how often you take it out for some fun. Since I am assuming your goals are 500-600 range and FLT or RPM should do just fine around the level 5-6 area. to save a little money but you may be able to get a new 4l80e for around the same price. and for example a level 2 4l80e is prob about like a level 5 or better 4l60e but will prob survive a while. auto is going to be faster at the track of course. from what I understand the 4l60e just does not have enough clutches and enough surface area to take on the punishment big power puts on it for as long as you'd like. the lighter your car is the better as far as longevity goes.

if you can give the cam specs or post a picture of the cam card im sure people will gladly give you there opinion on how the cam will coincide with the boost. a ton of guys including myself are using the brutespeed blower cam which is on the website you have listed above. its specs are 232/240 .595/.608 115lsa. you can also have one custom spec'd for little or nothing.

a list of things to look into (many already mentioned)

Headunit
fuel system including injectors
J bracket. -the also have auto tensioned ones
bypass valve (not the be confused with blow off valves)
methanol injection ---alkycontrol ---aqaumist ---snow--devils own
fuel pressure, boost, and wideband gauges to keep an eye on things
A built trans (money off for your core)
blower pulley (if you have one check its size --prob dont want a 3.4 now)
ls9 head gaskets
head studs.
inlet hat and filter
t bolt clamps instead of band clamps
crank pinning tool.


that should just about get it installed and ready for a tune. keep the stock injectors in until you get to the dyno to adjust the tables. otherwise things could go "south". whoever told you that BS about the 317 heads.....you need to keep them away from your car.

glad to help.

RedBarron68

Thanks for all you've added to this thread. I've been able to figure out what I need to get started by your list. You guys are right, its far from cheap but for me FI is the only way to go so I'll be saving up. The ZL9 cam has a 110 degree lobe 209/223 duration, and .568"/.584" lift. Hope I didn't make a bad choice with the cam I chose. Thanks again for the input.

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

That's not an optimal cam but for your power goals should work ok. When you start trying to maximize efficency, it will become an issue though. For the mid 500's and even a little more it should work fine. FI is far from cheap but that's what sets us apart! Things can be done on a budget, check out the for sale threads!

RedBarron68

Can you explain more in detail what you mean about the efficiency issue?

RedBarron68

I just won a bid for some 317 heads on eBay. They come with valve springs. I bought patriot valve spring kit. The discription says "dumand heads are assembled with COMP 26918-16 Valve springs which will accept .600 lift with no problems." so my question is are those springs already attached better or just as good as the springs in the patriot package?

RedBarron68

Bump for needed assistance. Won the bid now a friend of mines is telling me I should go with 241s because of my goals with the car. He says that since I don't plan on running a extreme amount of boost that I should go 241. The 317s will lower the compression a bit more than the 241s but the 241s with the combination of the cam and procharger would net me more power and not risk the efficiency of my motor at 8psi. That's how I interpreted the info he gave. Can anyone help me decide on heads and the questions above as well. Thanks in advance fellas.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

one thing I will say is some people that have posted in the Thread have missed the fact that you said this is going in a 68 firebird. So everyone telling you to get a reverse rotation head unit and buy a J-bracket is Wrong.

You will need a LSX transplant bracket and standard rotation head unit.


I think you can reach your 500 hp goal with stock heads and cam. Spend the money and make the fuel system big now.

I wouldn't be affraid slapping some 243 heads on it a small boost friendly cam and spray it with some Meth. 8-9psi and 600hp will be easy

RedBarron68

Thanks for the info. I'm getting so much mixed info it's hard to tell what to do. But i believe you are correct. Thank you for paying attention to that small but big detail. You have saved me some time, money, and hardship.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

No problem. Minor details like that are easy to over look but make a huge difference I think it is really easy to get caught up in the 98-02 ls1 f body easily since probably 80%+ of the cars on here are just that.

But to answer some of your other questions the patriot springs are probably better than the springs on the 317 heads you bought. I would look into either an ls6 cam if you want stock sounding idle of the Brute Speed FI cam if you want something choppy. Both will do really well at 8 psi and should easly get you in the 550 rwhp range on just pump gas.

one other not it that P1 head unit is only worth about $1000 on the high side of the price. D1;s can be had for 1500 used. And it cost $1200+ to upgrade the P1 to a D1. $800 is a better price for a used P1

RedBarron68

I know how it is. Everyone meant well and I thank everyone who posted a comment.

I was thinking about out right trading for a good set of 243s now. Do you think that's a good idea? I don't see myself wanting more than 600 hp/tq on this car. Also, I don't plan on running on anymore than 8-10 psi in the near future. So will the 243 heads be a better fit for me? I know the 317s lower compression but the guys I see with those heads are running more boost than I plan. I also don't plan on going forged anytime soon so that pretty much dictates how I go about the heads and boost situation.

I'm going to get the D1 unit instead of the P1. I'll have to tune it down but if I one day change my mind atleast I won't have to change my procharger.
The ZL9 cam has a 110 degree lobe 209/223 duration, and .568"/.584" lift. What do you think that would run like when paired with 243s and a fast intake? That's the cam I've bought due to a friends advice. I sure hope he is right in his suggestion.

RedBarron68

Bump for added help please

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

Like I said earlier the cam is not the most optimal but it'll work. You'll easily surpass your goals with it. Either set of heads will work as well. I made 590/563 wheel with my D1SC, stock bottom end, 317 heads and methanol. What you have lined up should do pretty good! Like Dschmittie said, focus a decent amount on the fuel system.

RedBarron68

Ok thanks for the info. I'll start looking into fuel systems. Just wanted to make sure I was heading in the right direction.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Send me an e-mail to brutespeed@gmail.com asking for me to send you a copy of the ProCharger Transplant installation instructions, and I'll e-mail them back to you. You'll see how everything goes together, and the transplant kit is what you want to go with for your '68.
For the fuel system I would go with teflon fuel lines, standard braided fuel hose these days leeches fuel through them big time. The smell would make you think you have a fuel leak, plus the rubber in the braided hose deteriorates. Bob

81cuttysupreme

lots of good advice on here. i just went through this very process on my oldsmobile. i would difinitly call some of the vendors on here. bob @brutespeed helped me a few times. you will want the lsx transplant kit, and a normal rotation procharger as someone else already stated. you may also have to buy some new accessories depending on what you have. i had to get the corvette alternator and p.s. pump/remote reservoir. i used a single walbro 340 in tank for fuel pump. If your handy with wiring dont worry about a wiring kit, you can get wire and a relay on your own for less. i did alot of reading on here and talking to vendors in order to put my plan together. If you want to do everything once, it will cost some $$$. I paid for a forged rebuild on my 347. I also upgraded the 60e as best i know how, we will see how long it will last??? If money is tight, stick with the heads you have, 851's? Also, take a hard look at meth as others have stated, i didnt do it at first but am thinking about it now. It's cheap insurance/power capability.

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

A Stage II 4L80E is just as good if not better than any built 4L60E, though the 80e really depends on the builder The biggest advantage a fully built 4l60e would have is billet input and output shafts, which would be better suited for nitrous than a 4L80Es stock input shaft and forward hub. The cost to upgrade those to billet costs about the same if not a little less than just the input shaft upgrade on a 60e

550 rwhp is a reliable area for a 4L60E IMO, and honestly at that point building a 4L60E would be cheaper than an 80e swap.

@ Dschmittie, damn right it's easy to forget, I actually forgot myself that it was a '68 until you mentioned it. Grats on being more aware than the rest of us

Bigtoyz

iTrader: (2)

I think you would be better off getting the whole kit weither new or used...like they said its the little things that add up. And also the PS1 is upgradable to a D1 for round 800 bucks I think. So look into just going to a D1 also just incase you want more out of it later. And spend the extra money on t-bolt hose clamps......I dealt with that for years and you'd be under the car in the front trying to reach the one that blew off. Never was one up on top.

As for the 4l60e I spent 2500 on my tranny and it has everything you can upgrade in it (the shell, 5 planetary gears, upgrade output shaft, billet servo, pump,extra wide kevlar band, (list goes on and on with it) and with a 5 disc converter. But I did the tranny build myself so I save quite a bit that way. But if you had someone do it.....it would be one of the $4000-4500 tanny builds for the 4l60E. Converter was 800 bucks but you could get a cheaper one of those.

Then depending how hard you are on it...you'd freshed it up every 3-4 years. But would be cheaper then also.