My friend tunes some of the most highest hp Vettes and I recently asked him if he thought I would gain anything with the Pro M MAF. He told me he didn't get any gain off the few that he has tried and that he is sticking to the stock ones. He has recently converted many of the ATI to draw through MAF setups as well for better idling purposes. I have the more convential blow through style maf with my TT and my car idles like a stocker..I also have a hole in the TB though..so that might be helping the idle out too.

 

I think there might be some confusion here.

There are two different types of proM MAFs.

There is on that is basically a stock GM replacement (heated wire style) – I’m pretty sure that is the type your tuner friend was talking about Shinobi. Then there is the universal sampling tube type that can read some really high hp airflow, but requires electronics to convert the voltage to a frequency and requires major tweaking of the PCM to get it to read more than the built in 512 g/sec limit.

Getting a MAF that can actually measure all the air is not going to get you more power on the dyno. It would however allow the car to be completely adaptive and respond correctly to changes in boost and weather conditions. So you would basically be able to run a consistent AF ratio between low and high boost settings without having to retune or run extremely rich in low boost.

 

I didn't know there was two of them...the second one sounds similar to what the FAST does with a onboard Wideband O2. Allows for consistant AF, I just haven't seen too many of them around.
Thanks

 

Quick silver is absolutly correct! THe old style small aluminum housing MAFs have an extended range and are the prefered in most cases.

Quicksilver: The resistor trick is to convert the truck maf to late model ls1/ls6 specs. It is soldered where the wire elements are in the meter.