Water pushing out the radiator!!
09-12-2012, 09:30 PM
#21
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Ok. Guys... I went over again this even and put the compressed air in the cylinders and nothing but blow by the rings with the piston down. I put the plugs back in and tried to ''burp'' it again, with the cap off the rad. and same shiat...Damn!
Just wondering??? Has anyone ever heard of the water pump not leaking out of the ''weep hole'' but still not pumping or fail in any other way???
I pulled the hose from the t-stat housing at idle and the water came out but did not seem to have any real pressure that would push thru the radiator sufficiently... Idk. Just trying anything...
I'm getting a lot of guesses, from a simple t-stat to the worst of the worst being a cracked block...
Just wondering??? Has anyone ever heard of the water pump not leaking out of the ''weep hole'' but still not pumping or fail in any other way???
I pulled the hose from the t-stat housing at idle and the water came out but did not seem to have any real pressure that would push thru the radiator sufficiently... Idk. Just trying anything...
I'm getting a lot of guesses, from a simple t-stat to the worst of the worst being a cracked block...
09-13-2012, 09:27 AM
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I understand where you are going with that suggestion, but I just put these 317 heads and new Ls9 gaskets with ARP bolts and lube torqued to 72lb.ft. and double cheched. I took pics of the progress and the gaskets are on ''front'' to the front as they should be.
I'm trying to not waste the money of another set of gaskets, if possible. That's why I'm trying so hard to proove to myself that it isn't something else first. Maybe a more simple fix.
Only because this is the same thing it was doing before the swap. I couldn't find anything showing real proof of a "lifted head" from the other gaskets but I hadn't ever seen one before either. So, I went with the "pros" suggestion and did the swap to drop the static compression because they all said it was a "lifted head"... But, it does this overheading at idle not even under a load . It is still on the rack and hasn't even hit the street yet , **** not even the driveway...lol
I'm trying to not waste the money of another set of gaskets, if possible. That's why I'm trying so hard to proove to myself that it isn't something else first. Maybe a more simple fix.
Only because this is the same thing it was doing before the swap. I couldn't find anything showing real proof of a "lifted head" from the other gaskets but I hadn't ever seen one before either. So, I went with the "pros" suggestion and did the swap to drop the static compression because they all said it was a "lifted head"... But, it does this overheading at idle not even under a load . It is still on the rack and hasn't even hit the street yet , **** not even the driveway...lol
09-13-2012, 09:54 AM
#25
had an idea but then just went thru and realized it was already discussed. Sorry for the lack of help Op, good luck with finding the problem but all fingers seem to be pointing to taking the heads off.. at least you dont have to buy new head bolts again too...
09-13-2012, 09:57 AM
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I went over the bolts only twice... to only 72#s... Ah **** ...80-85#???
Mmmm...I read with ARP lube only 70 and with oil 85..
The tune is the same from before. No changes to anything but the heads and gaskets...
Mmmm...I read with ARP lube only 70 and with oil 85..
The tune is the same from before. No changes to anything but the heads and gaskets...
Last edited by 383vert; 09-13-2012 at 10:04 AM.
09-13-2012, 11:07 AM
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Ummm I wonder if your head bolts stretched? In that case pull the heads. My old talon did the same thing. Kept pushing coolant...under boost though and I had to re-torque my damn head bolts twice. I said screw it and pulled the head and went with L19 head studs. Bam, problem fixed. I did a pressure test as well and it checked out fine. Food for thought.
09-13-2012, 11:13 AM
#29
Had you back flushed the coolant ? I'm wondering if something is blocking coolant to the heads. Man, this sure sucks for you. I get these demon/phantom issues from time to time and they are so painful because it seems everything your intuition says to check, seems fine. Looking forward to your post that says "FOUND IT!".
09-13-2012, 03:40 PM
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09-13-2012, 04:02 PM
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That is what we figured when it originally started doing it, so i decided to swap out the 243 heads for the 317 heads and ls9 gaskets. 383vert just finished installing the 317 heads and the issues is still there, the water is being pushed out of the radiator. The scariest part is that the issue wasn't around before I took it to be tuned the first time, but hopefully it's a simple fix and not a roasted block.
09-13-2012, 04:22 PM
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OK, I see you supplied more information that you installed another set of heads and still have the problem. I agree with Louis that it's probably a cracked sleeve. Especially if it's doing it under no load.
09-13-2012, 04:45 PM
#34
did you pressure test the cooling system with the motor warm or cold? When you say it pushes water out of the radiator with the cap off is this hot or cold? Most cars will push coolant out the filler with the cap off when they are hot. After you let the car sit for a while and you first start it, is there any smoke from the exhaust?
09-13-2012, 10:16 PM
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did you pressure test the cooling system with the motor warm or cold? When you say it pushes water out of the radiator with the cap off is this hot or cold? Most cars will push coolant out the filler with the cap off when they are hot. After you let the car sit for a while and you first start it, is there any smoke from the exhaust?
09-13-2012, 10:35 PM
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I appreciate all of the ideas...and help. It is great and helpful.
I am afraid of the crack cylinder wall because that would be a costly and big set back... I agree it is possible but the car only hit about 6-7#'s of boost at only 5700 rpm before they shut it down, do to the oil dip stick blowing out and spraying oil all over... the other to pulls on log, they only pulled the car to like 4600-4800...wtf... It only had @ 12-16 degrees of total timing at first now it has @ 10-12 degrees.
Please, keep the ideas coming and I'll keep trying to avoid pulling the engine to be machine shop checked...hahaha... Oh ****...
I am afraid of the crack cylinder wall because that would be a costly and big set back... I agree it is possible but the car only hit about 6-7#'s of boost at only 5700 rpm before they shut it down, do to the oil dip stick blowing out and spraying oil all over... the other to pulls on log, they only pulled the car to like 4600-4800...wtf... It only had @ 12-16 degrees of total timing at first now it has @ 10-12 degrees.
Please, keep the ideas coming and I'll keep trying to avoid pulling the engine to be machine shop checked...hahaha... Oh ****...
09-13-2012, 10:47 PM
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Everytime you post you add more details, I don't remember you mentioning the dipstick being blown out of the tube and oil spraying everywhere. Cracked sleeve= blow by and pressurized cooling system.
09-14-2012, 08:35 AM
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Damn... I try to think of everything each time I write on here ...
I was trying to fight for a simple fix... I really was...
But, looks like the engine is coming back out...After, I flush the block and check the waterpump...and that's my final attempt at "easy". The waterpump has to come off to change blocks anyway, it's worth it to me for peace of mind...
thanks again fellas. I will post up what was found.
I was trying to fight for a simple fix... I really was...
But, looks like the engine is coming back out...After, I flush the block and check the waterpump...and that's my final attempt at "easy". The waterpump has to come off to change blocks anyway, it's worth it to me for peace of mind...
thanks again fellas. I will post up what was found.
09-14-2012, 08:53 AM
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The oil will tell you everything once you drain it. If it looks like chocolate milk then your **** out of luck. But it also sounds like the PCV setup isn't adequate if you blowing the dipstick out. Sounds like too much crankcase pressure.