Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

HELP NINETRES!! Car randomly dies when boost hits.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-22-2012, 12:32 PM
  #21  
Launching!
iTrader: (12)
 
projectcam's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

My car was doing the same thing. Turned it to be the fuel pump wiring. The main power wire was getting to hot and it melted a fuse but the fuse never popped.
Old 09-22-2012, 07:32 PM
  #22  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (37)
 
JRENIGAR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: 72396
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by ninetres
Headed out to the shop soon. Not sure if its an LLY. How could I tell? Its just a 6.0 iron block.
Sorry about that, I was referring to the duramax truck in your sig... I know, I know ...
Old 09-22-2012, 08:36 PM
  #23  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (47)
 
FasTimeSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

learn the **** out of hp tuners it will tell u whats going on.

also verify fuel pressure @ WOT if you can, its tricky but can be done. i think that will get you pretty far
Old 09-23-2012, 12:38 AM
  #24  
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
 
ninetres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mufflerville, CA
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
Sorry about that, I was referring to the duramax truck in your sig... I know, I know ...
oh yeah haha. pretty sure it's an lly.... the later duramax.

Originally Posted by FasTimeSS
learn the **** out of hp tuners it will tell u whats going on.

also verify fuel pressure @ WOT if you can, its tricky but can be done. i think that will get you pretty far
The gauge is on the fpr regulator. When we watched it on the Dyno it was normal... but not sure if it ever died when we were watching it. I'll add a gauge on the dash sooner than later.


We should have the car back together sometime this coming week for some testing.
Old 09-26-2012, 02:10 AM
  #25  
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
 
ninetres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mufflerville, CA
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

RRrrrrrrr. So frustrated. Tested the car tonight, still cut out on me. Here is what we have done so far:

--Upgraded to the 145amp truck alternator
--Upgraded the charge back wire between the alt and rear battery from 4g--->to 0g.
--Cleaned up and verified all grounds looked good
--Re-wired Fuelab fuel pump. It used to use a hotwire kit I had, that ran alllllll the way up to the alternator. Now we used all 8g wire, and used a heavy duty "starter type" continuous solenoid, all rear mounted. We still are using the single factory pigtail on the bulk head, with the small signal wire running to the solenoid.


Thoughts:

1. Maybe need to add a wire between the starter, and PCM power wire to ensure PCM is getting constant voltage.
2. Maybe something is wrong with the pigtail where we are pulling our fuel pump signal from. We are going to try to jump the signal post on the solenoid, to the RED cable on the battery right near it. Then....if the car doesn;t cut out....we know its something with the pump signal we are using.
3. Does the stock PCM consider oil pressure at all when determining to cut the fuel pump??? I know some cars do this. Maybe I have a bad sensor or connection on my oil pressure sensor that is causing the PCM to think I lose oil pressure momentarily and it's cutting the pump for a split second.


I don't know. So bummed right know. The car is just DYING to get the tune finished and make some serious power.
Old 09-26-2012, 06:53 AM
  #26  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,739 Likes on 1,299 Posts

Default

Ninetres, dont take offense to this, but you're shooting in the dark. If I read your post right, you're saying that fuel pressure isn't dropping on the dyno via the underhood gauge. You need to log fuel pressure and/or signal wire with some type of analog output to a PC or oscilloscope and verify that there is no momentary loss of power or signal to the fuel pump etc. That will tell you for certain if you have a fuel pump/wiring issue. You can also verify with the oscilloscope realtime voltage to the fuel pump etc. as a multimeter is only RMS (average).

Second, you need a PC logging the run via HP Tuners/EFI Live to verify that none of your sensors are doing anything wierd when it starts to cutout on you. Does it only do it on 1 boost level and not on a lesser boost level?

I troubleshoot for a living and being a little more methodical about your approach will go a long way to solving this. Good luck!
Old 09-26-2012, 08:12 AM
  #27  
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
 
ninetres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mufflerville, CA
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ddnspider
Ninetres, dont take offense to this, but you're shooting in the dark. If I read your post right, you're saying that fuel pressure isn't dropping on the dyno via the underhood gauge. You need to log fuel pressure and/or signal wire with some type of analog output to a PC or oscilloscope and verify that there is no momentary loss of power or signal to the fuel pump etc. That will tell you for certain if you have a fuel pump/wiring issue. You can also verify with the oscilloscope realtime voltage to the fuel pump etc. as a multimeter is only RMS (average).

Second, you need a PC logging the run via HP Tuners/EFI Live to verify that none of your sensors are doing anything wierd when it starts to cutout on you. Does it only do it on 1 boost level and not on a lesser boost level?

I troubleshoot for a living and being a little more methodical about your approach will go a long way to solving this. Good luck!
No offense taken at all. That's just hard to do without trailering a car to a dyno. I guess it would be helpful though. There is a decent road we go "test" on near the shop....but after last nights test a CHP rolled right by the shop, then parked for 15 minutes, then left. Luckily we already had the car put away in a corner of the shop, and we were working on a metal fab project with a forklift out front I bought HP tuners a few days ago and still need to load it onto a lap top.....and start learning how it works. Happens at all boost levels.
Old 09-26-2012, 01:37 PM
  #28  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (64)
 
CalSpeedPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What size injectors are you running on this car? I assume speed density tuned.

Ive ran into this problem where the computer hits an internal limit that shuts it off like you turned off key under high boost.

What I have to do on alot of our shop cars that have made 900+ rwhp, is scale the injectors back say 25-50% depending on the size and then scale the VE/fueling etc tables the other way and put everything back in line. Then the computer doesnt hit this shutdown. So your lying to the computer that the injectors are alot smaller than they are and then scale the fuel tables etc.
Old 09-26-2012, 02:24 PM
  #29  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
slow trap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: tennessee
Posts: 2,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

seems i read (key word read ) on here along time ago someone was having an issue like this and it was the crank flexing and causing the cps to lose signal. just a very uneducated guess lol.
Old 09-26-2012, 02:53 PM
  #30  
FormerVendor
 
qqwqeqwrqwqtq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: WWW.SPEEDINC.COM
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by CalSpeedPerformance
What size injectors are you running on this car? I assume speed density tuned.

Ive ran into this problem where the computer hits an internal limit that shuts it off like you turned off key under high boost.

What I have to do on alot of our shop cars that have made 900+ rwhp, is scale the injectors back say 25-50% depending on the size and then scale the VE/fueling etc tables the other way and put everything back in line. Then the computer doesnt hit this shutdown. So your lying to the computer that the injectors are alot smaller than they are and then scale the fuel tables etc.
I've only seen that happen on Vettes. (hitting 4.1 g/cyl limit), and have never had to rescale anything with a cable throttle, FWIW.
Old 09-26-2012, 04:39 PM
  #31  
9 Second Club
 
stevieturbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 13,616
Received 180 Likes on 155 Posts

Default

Go back to basics.

Exactly how does the cut manifest itself ? Is it only on boost, at a certain speed, rpm ? etc

Does the rev counter still work during this, or does it immediately fall to zero ? Do dash lights indicate a full power cut, or just an engine cut ?

If you cannot log, wire up a simple test lamp to ensure power is maintained to places it needs to be maintained. ie coils, injectors, ecu, fuel pumps

Is there anything silly in the ecu like a fuel cut for a speed limiter ? boost limit ? etc

A failing fuel pump or power dropout to the pump might stop the engine slightly slower than say a power cut to the ignition or ecu.
Old 09-26-2012, 04:42 PM
  #32  
LS1Tech Co-Founder
iTrader: (34)
 
Pro Stock John's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 44,693
Received 1,139 Likes on 740 Posts

Default

It completely shuts off, or is still running and then backfires?
Old 09-26-2012, 05:51 PM
  #33  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (7)
 
Louis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Frisco/Wylie
Posts: 4,168
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by slow trap
seems i read (key word read ) on here along time ago someone was having an issue like this and it was the crank flexing and causing the cps to lose signal. just a very uneducated guess lol.
Bent, or mis-aligned crank wheel/sensor, would totally do it, if the car was shutting off completely.

Try swapping ECUs, Ive seen injector drivers go bad in OLD ECUs.
Old 09-26-2012, 05:51 PM
  #34  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
 
ddnspider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 14,598
Received 1,739 Likes on 1,299 Posts

Default

From what I gathered the car runs fine until he's WOT in boost then it literally feels like someone turns the ignition key off. I had the exact same symptoms with my original Lingenfelter 2 step hooked up.
Old 09-26-2012, 08:57 PM
  #35  
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
 
ninetres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mufflerville, CA
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by slow trap
seems i read (key word read ) on here along time ago someone was having an issue like this and it was the crank flexing and causing the cps to lose signal. just a very uneducated guess lol.
It happens before any serious power come in so I doubt its flexing the crank. Then it can make a clean pass with high power and no issue. Seems random.

Originally Posted by INTMD8
I've only seen that happen on Vettes. (hitting 4.1 g/cyl limit), and have never had to rescale anything with a cable throttle, FWIW.
Cable throttle body.

Originally Posted by CalSpeedPerformance
What size injectors are you running on this car? I assume speed density tuned.

Ive ran into this problem where the computer hits an internal limit that shuts it off like you turned off key under high boost.

What I have to do on alot of our shop cars that have made 900+ rwhp, is scale the injectors back say 25-50% depending on the size and then scale the VE/fueling etc tables the other way and put everything back in line. Then the computer doesnt hit this shutdown. So your lying to the computer that the injectors are alot smaller than they are and then scale the fuel tables etc.
120lb low imp injectors. Versa fueler driver.

Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Go back to basics.

Exactly how does the cut manifest itself ? Is it only on boost, at a certain speed, rpm ? etc

Does the rev counter still work during this, or does it immediately fall to zero ? Do dash lights indicate a full power cut, or just an engine cut ?

If you cannot log, wire up a simple test lamp to ensure power is maintained to places it needs to be maintained. ie coils, injectors, ecu, fuel pumps

Is there anything silly in the ecu like a fuel cut for a speed limiter ? boost limit ? etc

A failing fuel pump or power dropout to the pump might stop the engine slightly slower than say a power cut to the ignition or ecu.
When it happens it seems as soon as boost starts to roll in. Happens pretty quick after I step on it or roll into it deep enough to start coming out of vacuum. The OEM tach doesn;t work, and I have a digital gaue/shift light. I'm sure it falls to 0 when the car is off. The lights and gauges STAY ON when this happens. Nothing silly like you mentioned.

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
It completely shuts off, or is still running and then backfires?
It usually completely shuts off when it happens.....although last night it when happened, it didn't completely shut off for some reason....it just totally lost 100% engine power....like it was instantly at idle or something. No back fire, all power just gone instantly.

Originally Posted by Louis
Bent, or mis-aligned crank wheel/sensor, would totally do it, if the car was shutting off completely.

Try swapping ECUs, Ive seen injector drivers go bad in OLD ECUs.
As noted above in this post, I run a versa fueler. Would this still apply? I have the ECU from my other camaro....but need to learn how to pull the current tune out of that one, save it, and load the turbo tune into it. I just bought HP tuners and am 100% n00b.

Originally Posted by ddnspider
From what I gathered the car runs fine until he's WOT in boost then it literally feels like someone turns the ignition key off. I had the exact same symptoms with my original Lingenfelter 2 step hooked up.
Correct. It had the synergy 2-step on it, but we removed it entirely to eliminate it being a factor. Still happening.
Old 09-26-2012, 08:58 PM
  #36  
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
 
ninetres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mufflerville, CA
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Thanks so much for your help everyone, and for following this thread to help me. Very frustrated at this point after the 3 year build....and promising base tune dyno results.
Old 09-26-2012, 09:26 PM
  #37  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
 
AutomagicLS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shawnee,KS
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

in my old car we did a wire tuck with the harness under the drivers strut tower. Something got to the harness under the strut tower in the wheel well and caused the same issue. Don't quite remember what wire it was but just driving around the car would stutter and die just going down the road. Your's is in boost but it definitely sounds wiring/pcm related. have you messed with or modified with that side of the harness?
Old 09-27-2012, 12:31 AM
  #38  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
BuffJoeyD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 1985
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Seems like you've looked at a lot of things, but since you haven't found it with the current suggestions...

Ive seen this happen on cars with bad battery mounts ( where it is moving under power and the terminals are hitting something, causing a temp power spike and kills engine power )

Ive seen this happen on Fuelab, Walbro, Aeromotive ( all pumps ) defective pump ( usually cause the pump burned up ) either previously insufficient wiring / lines, or bad luck pump.

Seen this with truck alternators on cars and power steering lines being so close that the engine rise under power is pulling the PS lines up to the output power from the Alternator, causing a short to ground and cutting engine power. Make sure to have that Power line covered well.

Seen this with cars that have bad motor mounts: wires pulling or stretching from the engine moving in places that look fine when at rest.

Seen this on boosted cars tuned to run the MAF, when the range is out run and the car is in a fail state the secondary VE hasn't been tuned at all and the fueling is so far off that the car will die, or come damn close to it

Good luck buddy! Make sure to come back and let us know what you find!
Old 09-27-2012, 02:42 AM
  #39  
9 Second Club
 
stevieturbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 13,616
Received 180 Likes on 155 Posts

Default

Map sensor reading ok ?
Some datalog info would really help.
Old 09-30-2012, 12:57 AM
  #40  
9 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (35)
 
ninetres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mufflerville, CA
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Defective fuel pump. Not only did we see that pressure drops like a rock to zero, but the pump also took a complete **** during our testing. I'll withhold the name brand until I see how they handle it. Only been on the car for a month but I've had it sitting in the box longer than the 2 year warranty. I've read about a LOT of people having them fail....even several for the same person. I also read their customer service is very good.....but not sure how they will respond since its "technically" out of warranty.

I'm not even 100% sure I want to run this pump after reading about all the failures. Might spring for a Magnafuel.


Quick Reply: HELP NINETRES!! Car randomly dies when boost hits.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:00 AM.