Keep blowing turbo need help!
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Staging Lane
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From: st. Louis/Lima, Ohio
Keep blowing turbo need help! alright i have an sts rear mount 67mm it starved of oil earlier this year and i had it completly rebuilt to a 70mm then i had oil return issues and smoked the bearings...again well i got the car back and running and put 120 miles on it and yesterday the turbo grenaded again
so i called the shop rather aggrivated and pulled it off again last night when i pulled the feed line off almost no oil drained out
i have a check valve on my oil feed line right before the turbo thinking off getting rid of that..should i have a check valve there? my engine also dropped oil pressure way low after turbo blew but when i started back up later that day pressure was fine! ill prolly check the opsu making sure that is all good. but any advice to why the turbo got starved this time??? possible clogged line or check valve? any advice would much appreciated this car is gunna be the death of me
so i called the shop rather aggrivated and pulled it off again last night when i pulled the feed line off almost no oil drained out i have a check valve on my oil feed line right before the turbo thinking off getting rid of that..should i have a check valve there? my engine also dropped oil pressure way low after turbo blew but when i started back up later that day pressure was fine! ill prolly check the opsu making sure that is all good. but any advice to why the turbo got starved this time??? possible clogged line or check valve? any advice would much appreciated this car is gunna be the death of me 
you need a check valve on there to keep it from flowing when the car is sitting and off. I know it sounds silly but make sure the checkvalve is flowing towards the turbo. if it has an arrow on it, it needs to be pointing towards the turbo. IF its facing the opposite direction it will not flow. it litterally will be forced closed by the oil pressure. its on ly there to keep oil out of the turbo when its off.
Its either that or you have a faulty check valve. Summit makes some nice cheap affordably check valves with an fittings if thats the case.
Also for testing, take the check valve off and ensure the line isnt blocked by idling the engine for a sec. just to see if anything comes out or if its comgin out less then it should be.
start form there for simplicty sake.
if thats not the problem or has been fixed and still hasnt fixed the oil problem, oyu might have a failing oil pump. you have a 99 correct? your with us red headed step childen who prior to 01 had the "true" LS1 oil pump and not the LS6 oil pump, that has a hit or miss of failing.
Its either that or you have a faulty check valve. Summit makes some nice cheap affordably check valves with an fittings if thats the case.
Also for testing, take the check valve off and ensure the line isnt blocked by idling the engine for a sec. just to see if anything comes out or if its comgin out less then it should be.
start form there for simplicty sake.
if thats not the problem or has been fixed and still hasnt fixed the oil problem, oyu might have a failing oil pump. you have a 99 correct? your with us red headed step childen who prior to 01 had the "true" LS1 oil pump and not the LS6 oil pump, that has a hit or miss of failing.
if anyone noticed, he's runnning an STS REAR MOUNTED turbo. you pretty much have to to keep oil from running out the turbo when its sitting and not running. if your car sits for too long it will leak past the seals on the turbo and blow out smoke on start up the next time you do. the check vavle is there to stop oil from flowing out while its sitting. not while its running, hence he needs it to be flowing WITH the oil, not against it. the check valve has a very light cracking pressure of like 1-5psi. way lighter then what can hold against 30-60psi of oil pressure unless its on backwards.
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Staging Lane
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From: st. Louis/Lima, Ohio
my check valve is on correctly and i have an aftermarket slp heavy duty oil pump on my engine so thats not the issue. Im gunna check the lines and the checkvalve to insure they are working correctly. then check the return pump but due to the fact that winter is coming up fast im thinking of scratching the rear mount set up and building my own custom front mount i already have most of the tools and piping so i may just cut everything up and switch to front mount but i gotta see how much damage this turbo rebuild is gunna do me in for first
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I had an STS Camaro and currently an STS twin Corvette. Never needed a check valve here. Even with my lines removed and hanging and the turbos removed, no oil moves or pools unless the engine is running. I have had plenty of return issues, though. You need to hotwire the scavenge pump and tap the return to your oil pan for best results. I believe your feed line is somehow clogged if your turbo is dry. You don't need that check valve. If your oil source is where it should be by the filter, oil will not move without oil pressure.
Why not make a stand alone oiling system in the rear? A cheap scavenge pump and a oil reservoir and you can have the turbo on it's own oil system. Total cost probably less than the first turbo rebuild.
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Staging Lane
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From: st. Louis/Lima, Ohio
thanks for the advice yea im gunna say **** the check valve and run it a lil differently and i never had oil issues last year or pump issues so idk why its acting up now if things are gunna cost to much i might just front mount my turbo and be done with this bull **** but i need to check my pump as well.......how would i go bout hotwiring the pump?
you can either disconnect the return line and see if it coming out while the engines running for 5-10 seconds. dont go over board or youll pump out all your oil.
or you can completely disconect its feed and return lines and if you have a few spare lines to connect to the pump, have a spare quart of oil and a couple of buckets, let the electrical pump run with the key in run if you have it wired that way.
Its that or remore it completly and do like above and just use a spare 12volt batt and see if it flows. I recommend the first way so that you can see if its wired up correctly as well. ie not flowing in the right direction.
I guess if you can get away without the checkvalve, then so be it. i guess its depends on turbos and the car. some people have have puddles under their turrbo and i guess some of you havnt.
As for the dedicated rear oiling system, your gonna need a pusher and a puller pump and a sump with some thing to monitor its operation like a oil pressure gauge and a failure alert in the event of failure
or you can completely disconect its feed and return lines and if you have a few spare lines to connect to the pump, have a spare quart of oil and a couple of buckets, let the electrical pump run with the key in run if you have it wired that way.
Its that or remore it completly and do like above and just use a spare 12volt batt and see if it flows. I recommend the first way so that you can see if its wired up correctly as well. ie not flowing in the right direction.
I guess if you can get away without the checkvalve, then so be it. i guess its depends on turbos and the car. some people have have puddles under their turrbo and i guess some of you havnt.
As for the dedicated rear oiling system, your gonna need a pusher and a puller pump and a sump with some thing to monitor its operation like a oil pressure gauge and a failure alert in the event of failure
I am actually re-wiring mine now. The STS resistors are known for failing, as mine just did after two years. I'm running a fused power wire directly off the alternator to a switch inside, then back to my gauges and the pump itself. Then I have the power to let it run for a second after cutting the engine and drawing any pooled oil out of the turbos. Also, if the system fails, my gauges will turn off, alerting me to shut it down. Also, I'm running a Turbowerx Exa Pump. It has no problem returning the oil from two turbos.
My only worry for this setup is that 14.4 volts may be too much for my gauges. If this is the case, I will just wire the pump or doing everything off the 12 volt source of the battery itself. I won't have a hard time remembering to flip the switch because I never crank the car without listening for the pump to prime itself first with the key in the on position anyway.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
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From: st. Louis/Lima, Ohio
that all sounds like a good plan i still have yet to remotivate myself to get underneath the cra and see what caused the problem im waiting to hear from the the turbo shop to get the news on my turbo but i may be loooking further into hotwiring the pumpand possibly running a gauge such as u have it. a friend of mine just brought up the fact i should have some sort of gauge to monitor that rear pump lol but with the weather getting colder here and possibly having to buy another turbo or at least a bigger housing i may just be redoing my rear mount!
Why not fab your own front mount? weren't you thinking about that anyway? Plus it seems pretty easy to do in fbodys with the forward truck manifolds. Rear mounts are cool but i think their only necessary if engine bay space is limited.
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Staging Lane
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From: st. Louis/Lima, Ohio
nah lol not gunna go with an oil less turbo not exactly my goal and i might fab up a froint mount not sure where im going with all this but i believe i can fix this issue and if it dont work then im gunna go front mount but ill see how this works for now