TWINS! School me.
11-01-2012, 06:20 PM
#1
TWINS! School me. ive been researching a lot here lately... went from going to a bigger blower, to a single turbo and now to maybe doing a twin setup. and i have lots of questions...
motor will be.
AES390
Ported 317's
Turbo cam
head studs
main studs
maybe use my BBK intake or maybe buy a fast.
aqua mist meth injection w/ 93.
hp goal = 850rwhp.
1. Ive seen setups where the turbos mount directly to the manifolds. is this a matter of just welding on a T4 flange? i like this setup the best.
2. what size turbos to meet my goals?
3. oil feed/drain. can i put these lines to Y block? so feed line to Y to each turbo then the same on the return.
4.Can i keep my ABS? In the setups i was lookin at it looks like the ABS block.is gone.
5. i have a CX racing intercooler. what's the best way to do an intercooler for twins without spending a fortune on one? can i cut a second hole on one side and add a flange for the other turbo or can i Y the IC pipe down to a single pipe.
6. radiator. i know it'll have to be stood up. will the stock radiator be sufficient, or should i buy a griffin like everyone else?
7. down pipes. i plan on buying mild steel already mandrel bent and adding on some vband flanges and at least get them under the car. then have an exhaust shop "wire" them into my already existing true dual system. would this work?
8. i know 2 wastegates will be required. what size/brand. open or back into the down pipes?
9.will a single BOV be enough?
10. what manifolds?
this will be somewhat of a budget build. Im thinking $4600 for everything is this reasonable?
heres what Ive estimated...
turbos- $1700
cold side - $250-300
manifolds - $50
WGs - $700
BOV - $150
Oil lines - $150
eboost 2 - $530
flanges - ~$100
down pipes - $75
total = $3725
school me.
motor will be.
AES390
Ported 317's
Turbo cam
head studs
main studs
maybe use my BBK intake or maybe buy a fast.
aqua mist meth injection w/ 93.
hp goal = 850rwhp.
1. Ive seen setups where the turbos mount directly to the manifolds. is this a matter of just welding on a T4 flange? i like this setup the best.
2. what size turbos to meet my goals?
3. oil feed/drain. can i put these lines to Y block? so feed line to Y to each turbo then the same on the return.
4.Can i keep my ABS? In the setups i was lookin at it looks like the ABS block.is gone.
5. i have a CX racing intercooler. what's the best way to do an intercooler for twins without spending a fortune on one? can i cut a second hole on one side and add a flange for the other turbo or can i Y the IC pipe down to a single pipe.
6. radiator. i know it'll have to be stood up. will the stock radiator be sufficient, or should i buy a griffin like everyone else?
7. down pipes. i plan on buying mild steel already mandrel bent and adding on some vband flanges and at least get them under the car. then have an exhaust shop "wire" them into my already existing true dual system. would this work?
8. i know 2 wastegates will be required. what size/brand. open or back into the down pipes?
9.will a single BOV be enough?
10. what manifolds?
this will be somewhat of a budget build. Im thinking $4600 for everything is this reasonable?
heres what Ive estimated...
turbos- $1700
cold side - $250-300
manifolds - $50
WGs - $700
BOV - $150
Oil lines - $150
eboost 2 - $530
flanges - ~$100
down pipes - $75
total = $3725
school me.
11-02-2012, 05:04 PM
#4
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i am not sure if you can just weld a t4 or any t to the manifolds to make this works but i am sure that your fuel system needs upgrade to achive your goal and depending on your piping route you might have or not to have standing radiator and about y piping your cold pipes to ic i've seen it before but with water coling ic and there was alot of room and huge ic so i cant tell you if its going to work for you or not.
11-02-2012, 05:31 PM
#5
ya i know my fuel system will need to be upgraded. im just worried about the turbo setup itself. ill prolly do a magnafuel 4303 pump, -10 feed, -8 return w/ 80-96lb injectors.
ive seen 2 inlet single outlet intercoolers before, theyre just outrageous.. this will be 95% street car so i dont really wanna do an A2W... id really like to know about the flanges to the manifolds, here is the kit i was talking about. i think its a custom Speed inc setup.
ive seen 2 inlet single outlet intercoolers before, theyre just outrageous.. this will be 95% street car so i dont really wanna do an A2W... id really like to know about the flanges to the manifolds, here is the kit i was talking about. i think its a custom Speed inc setup.
11-03-2012, 01:25 AM
#7
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It's really nice kit but you can notice that you must remove the abs and the ac and relocate the power steering box and make the radiator stand up.
But it's a nice set up and it have the potential for 1000 whp plus .
But it's a nice set up and it have the potential for 1000 whp plus .
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11-03-2012, 07:50 AM
#9
1. If you can pick a manifold that points in the right direction, yes the flange could be welded right to it. Maybe LS4 on the R and truck on the L.
2. Precision 6766's
3.A Y is ok on the feed but drain them seperately with at least a -10.
4.Depends on your fab ability. I'd delete it.
5. Buy the $400 9"tall core Treadstone tt intercooler. (I've used one at 1000rwhp)
6.Depends on what you do with the car. Always on the freeway with nice airflow, stock would prob work. Radiators are cheap though.
7. Yes that would work, but if your fabbing downpipes you sure as hell better be able to tie it into the stock exhaust yourself.
8. Tial 38Mvs would be the minimum you could get by with. Make sure inlet angle is good though.
9.Race Parts Solutions 50mm if your a cheap ***, Tial 50Q if your not.
10. I'd do the tubular K, use down and forward truck manifolds, cut and rewelded then route the downpipes around the steering shaft on the left and where the ac used to be on the right.
2. Precision 6766's
3.A Y is ok on the feed but drain them seperately with at least a -10.
4.Depends on your fab ability. I'd delete it.
5. Buy the $400 9"tall core Treadstone tt intercooler. (I've used one at 1000rwhp)
6.Depends on what you do with the car. Always on the freeway with nice airflow, stock would prob work. Radiators are cheap though.
7. Yes that would work, but if your fabbing downpipes you sure as hell better be able to tie it into the stock exhaust yourself.
8. Tial 38Mvs would be the minimum you could get by with. Make sure inlet angle is good though.
9.Race Parts Solutions 50mm if your a cheap ***, Tial 50Q if your not.
10. I'd do the tubular K, use down and forward truck manifolds, cut and rewelded then route the downpipes around the steering shaft on the left and where the ac used to be on the right.
11-03-2012, 08:15 AM
#10
1. if i do down and forward truck manifold and weld the T4 flanges to them, will they stick out far enough to clear everything or would i have to extend them?
4. Whats involved with deleting it? this a good idea it being a street car?
7. i was going to buy some 90* tubes and they'd come out just like the down pipes in the pic. i have a friend who can weld but he doesnt have his own welder. thats y i was going to have an exhaust shop tie in the extra tubing to my existing exhaust.
8. whats considered a good inlet angle? should i leave them open or tie them back into the down pipes?
ur post was very helpful. thanks.
4. Whats involved with deleting it? this a good idea it being a street car?
7. i was going to buy some 90* tubes and they'd come out just like the down pipes in the pic. i have a friend who can weld but he doesnt have his own welder. thats y i was going to have an exhaust shop tie in the extra tubing to my existing exhaust.
8. whats considered a good inlet angle? should i leave them open or tie them back into the down pipes?
ur post was very helpful. thanks.
11-03-2012, 09:52 AM
#11
1. if i do down and forward truck manifold and weld the T4 flanges to them, will they stick out far enough to clear everything or would i have to extend them?
I think your getting in over your head if you think you can just flip some manifolds and weld on some flanges and your done. There are lots of things that need to be thought out. Maybe find a local fabricator to help out with at least the piping.
4. Whats involved with deleting it? this a good idea it being a street car?
SJM delete kit.
7. i was going to buy some 90* tubes and they'd come out just like the down pipes in the pic. i have a friend who can weld but he doesnt have his own welder. thats y i was going to have an exhaust shop tie in the extra tubing to my existing exhaust.
See post on #1. Not trying to sound harsh but there are a lot more than meets the eye on Speed Incs kit you posted. It looks like a couple 90 degree bends and done but far far more than that.
8. whats considered a good inlet angle? should i leave them open or tie them back into the down pipes?
The exhaust should flow as easily into the wastegate as it does the turbine. Too get a cheaper 38mm gate to work for you, it needs to be planned out and not an afterthought.
ur post was very helpful. thanks.
I think your getting in over your head if you think you can just flip some manifolds and weld on some flanges and your done. There are lots of things that need to be thought out. Maybe find a local fabricator to help out with at least the piping.
4. Whats involved with deleting it? this a good idea it being a street car?
SJM delete kit.
7. i was going to buy some 90* tubes and they'd come out just like the down pipes in the pic. i have a friend who can weld but he doesnt have his own welder. thats y i was going to have an exhaust shop tie in the extra tubing to my existing exhaust.
See post on #1. Not trying to sound harsh but there are a lot more than meets the eye on Speed Incs kit you posted. It looks like a couple 90 degree bends and done but far far more than that.
8. whats considered a good inlet angle? should i leave them open or tie them back into the down pipes?
The exhaust should flow as easily into the wastegate as it does the turbine. Too get a cheaper 38mm gate to work for you, it needs to be planned out and not an afterthought.
ur post was very helpful. thanks.
