Oil for fi
go to walmart, their oil, and really any fluid, is much much cheaper!!
a buddy and I were just talking and we had discussed the Synthetic Vr1 not being used in Turbo applications because it broke down alot quicker since the oil gets much hotter feeding thru the motor and turbo.
Can anyone dispute that?
Can anyone dispute that?
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some some 0-40 or 10w-40 is actually in my opinion better than the 20w-50. if you look at the oil basic info that most manufacturers present, you will find the -50 oils are like roughly 20 cSt rating... this is like molasses compared to -30 oils @ 11. (maybe not quite that bad)
but a 10w-40 or 0w-40 has a cSt of around 14, and if you can find it with the zinc+Ph amounts around 1100~1300 (versus 5w-30 mobile 1 @800~900) you are doing good. if not purchase the zinc+ph additive and add 1/3 of a bottle.
the only idea I see of using 20w-50 (such thick oil) is if the car would see a lot of dragstrip + hard passes. I drive my car on the street 90% of the time and it sees maybe a couple true hard passes a year. The 20w-50 works at the dragstrip as it is thicker at the base temperatures of 100C rating and is also thicker at higher temperatures versus 5w-30. its all about temperatures.
i haven't messed with it yet but have thought about blending 20w-50 with some 0w-40 and doing some oil & viscosity tests
but a 10w-40 or 0w-40 has a cSt of around 14, and if you can find it with the zinc+Ph amounts around 1100~1300 (versus 5w-30 mobile 1 @800~900) you are doing good. if not purchase the zinc+ph additive and add 1/3 of a bottle.
the only idea I see of using 20w-50 (such thick oil) is if the car would see a lot of dragstrip + hard passes. I drive my car on the street 90% of the time and it sees maybe a couple true hard passes a year. The 20w-50 works at the dragstrip as it is thicker at the base temperatures of 100C rating and is also thicker at higher temperatures versus 5w-30. its all about temperatures.
i haven't messed with it yet but have thought about blending 20w-50 with some 0w-40 and doing some oil & viscosity tests
Being thicker, it is tougher to pump at startup, especially in cold temps. Sure you have lots of psi of oil pressure, but it's flow that protects bearings.
I had all of my bearings coated and my car stays in the garage during the winter, so personally, I'm fine with running 20w50 because the oil rarely ever gets below 50 degrees, but if you have a car that's outside, or sits parked outside for extended periods of time, a thinner oil during the winter would help at startup.
I had all of my bearings coated and my car stays in the garage during the winter, so personally, I'm fine with running 20w50 because the oil rarely ever gets below 50 degrees, but if you have a car that's outside, or sits parked outside for extended periods of time, a thinner oil during the winter would help at startup.
To the guy talking about 0w40 and similar weights of oil- Big spread oils are VERY prone to shearing due to their additive package unless you want to shell out big $$$ for an ester-based synthetic, especially when worked hard in an application like, say, a high-HP LS street-strip car. 20W50 will resist shearing better, and will be just fine in most applications as long as you let the car warm up before you take off like a bat out of hell. Also, a lot of engine builders use looser tolerances than factory, so a thicker oil is a better fit.
To the guy talking about 0w40 and similar weights of oil- Big spread oils are VERY prone to shearing due to their additive package unless you want to shell out big $$$ for an ester-based synthetic, especially when worked hard in an application like, say, a high-HP LS street-strip car. 20W50 will resist shearing better, and will be just fine in most applications as long as you let the car warm up before you take off like a bat out of hell. Also, a lot of engine builders use looser tolerances than factory, so a thicker oil is a better fit.