The power (Literally) of ignition timing
Thanks again for posting your results.
I would run 19 and 14* timing 
Boost and timing can both be detrimental. Its hard to say with such little increases. I would have to say that less boost and more timing would be safer, but more boost, depending on the efficiency of the setup, it may make more power with more boost.
Boost and timing can both be detrimental. Its hard to say with such little increases. I would have to say that less boost and more timing would be safer, but more boost, depending on the efficiency of the setup, it may make more power with more boost.
i hear ya. on alcohol, e85 or methanol, where do you typically find the limit on timing
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Joined: Oct 2012
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I honestly dont know why. Its a phenomena ive noticed too....
I just call it "gettin happy". Theres probably some kind of relationship with the flame front, pressure waves and valve events that setting up the surge effect you see. If you start the flame front at different times via differsnt timing events...you change where in the combustion cycle the mechanical events take place.
Ive also seen it start going back the other way when the motor ends up over timed too.
I set timing at the track. You can get close on a dyno but not perfect. Keep putting it in till the car slows down. Then put it where it ran the best mph.
Plugs and timeslips tell you more about whats going on than anything else. Doing WOT shut downs and plug readings will get you up on your tuneup quicker than anything.
I just call it "gettin happy". Theres probably some kind of relationship with the flame front, pressure waves and valve events that setting up the surge effect you see. If you start the flame front at different times via differsnt timing events...you change where in the combustion cycle the mechanical events take place.
Ive also seen it start going back the other way when the motor ends up over timed too.
I set timing at the track. You can get close on a dyno but not perfect. Keep putting it in till the car slows down. Then put it where it ran the best mph.
Plugs and timeslips tell you more about whats going on than anything else. Doing WOT shut downs and plug readings will get you up on your tuneup quicker than anything.
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This is something you can really see on higher boosted honda turbo setups. They HAVE to add timing to get it to smooth out up top.
Also IMO, timing is harder to hook than boost, we run REALLY low timing down low on the street tires to make it hook, sad how much boost we can shove down it if the timing is low and still stay hooked on a pure street tire lol.
Also IMO, timing is harder to hook than boost, we run REALLY low timing down low on the street tires to make it hook, sad how much boost we can shove down it if the timing is low and still stay hooked on a pure street tire lol.
This is something you can really see on higher boosted honda turbo setups. They HAVE to add timing to get it to smooth out up top.
Also IMO, timing is harder to hook than boost, we run REALLY low timing down low on the street tires to make it hook, sad how much boost we can shove down it if the timing is low and still stay hooked on a pure street tire lol.
Also IMO, timing is harder to hook than boost, we run REALLY low timing down low on the street tires to make it hook, sad how much boost we can shove down it if the timing is low and still stay hooked on a pure street tire lol.
Timing is such a great traction tuning tool, because you can catch the slip very quickly, and add it back it, again, very quickly.
If we remove timing you can imagine the power loss. We are talking a 150-200 hp loss at the 600 hp level, thats equivalent of 8-10 psi of boost, but you can ramp it back in in a split second
As for the timing causing the oscillation in the curve, its just an incomplete burn due to the lack of compression, lack of timing, and the mixture.
I have always done the same. I have found the motors I have personally tuned will tolerate less timing at peak torque than at redline. As mentioned previously I would have several degrees less timing at peak torque and raise it as it went towards redline.
Contrary to popular belief there is no power loss by using a colder plug and you can actually 9/10 run more timing with the colder plug.
Good thread Louis.