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The power (Literally) of ignition timing

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Old 01-11-2013, 03:45 PM
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So on a turbo set up, what do you consider "low" timing?
Old 01-11-2013, 04:17 PM
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ON my BBC we started timing off at 20degs with 16psi of boost on e85, never got to the 7k red line
the guy shut me down and said there was something wrong.....He told me that he could see through my headers. they where transparent.
If I had to guess that was a lil to retarded for that particulate engine.
The truck ended up with 38deg total timing
Old 01-11-2013, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by James@ShorTuning
Mostly setup dependent. Nitrous cars are worse due to the increase oxygen content vs forced air cars. Think of it like acetylene torches and then hitting the oxygen button...
Great way to visualize it James.

As you said nitrous and boost although two power adders, are different. When I say rich, I mean rich...as in he had the thing sub 10.5 AFR....
Old 01-11-2013, 04:56 PM
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BBC is a far different motor than a LS based motor. From my experience the more efficient the motor, the less timing that is needed.
Old 01-11-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 9sectruck
ON my BBC . . . with 16psi of boost on e85 . . . The truck ended up with 38deg total timing
Did I excerpt your post wrong, or are you saying you ended up with 38 degrees of advance with 16psi?
Old 01-11-2013, 11:29 PM
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Depends on compression, fuel, boost level etc. Normally I'll pull 1.5* per PSI from conservative NA timing (24* peak torque, 26-28* redline) when starting off just to see how things go.
Old 01-12-2013, 07:26 AM
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So 9* at peak torque and 12-14* at redline on a car running 10 psi. So what would "low" timing be? That seems a little low to me, although not terribly so honestly.
Old 01-12-2013, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by James@ShorTuning
Every setup is different but I'm gonna say thats pretty aggressive on timing with just 92 octane... Best bet is to start off closer to 12-13* and check plugs. Increase the timing incrementally until you start seeing some heat in the plugs and with each increase verify fueling. Some setups take alot more than others and the closest one to your setup I've had was a magnacharged LS6 with a 224 cam and I ended up at 14-15* if memory serves with that setup on straight pump gas.

My advice is to put a methanol kit on it and don't use that sissy 50/50 mix... then throw some timing at it and it'll make a ton more power. Picked a cam/header/maggy 2300 LS2 up 100rwhp with methanol. Could only manage 13* on 93 octane. Added a Snow st2 kit with the largest single nozzle they had and pure methanol and was able to get 21* in it with 100rwhp more. Cooler charge temps and proper heat mark on plugs still. Meth.... its addicting LOL

I do run a 50/50 meth mix for added safety. I don't want to rely fully on meth for adding octane as I use it instead of an intercooler, water really helps remove the heat from the air with the meth. I won't do 100% meth. Now on the other hand my friend runs 100% meth with his turbo firehawk making over 700whp.
Old 01-12-2013, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarg
So 9* at peak torque and 12-14* at redline on a car running 10 psi. So what would "low timing be? That seems a little low to me, although not terribly so honestly.
On my turbo car I ran N/A timing up to 2-3 psi then brought it down to 14* at peak torque and after 5200rpm I had 16* in it to red line. 15-16psi, 93 octane, 85/15% meth/h20 and 10.33:1 compression. I sprayed a lot of meth though I had 3 nozzles.
Old 01-12-2013, 10:56 AM
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Honestly this will be the first turbo LS motor I have tuned. I will be doing 93 first followed by E85. I was thinking on E85 I might end up at around 10 at peak torque (depending on where it peaks) and 16-18 at redline. I guess I was not too terribly far off. Although if it ends up peaking at 4500+ I would imagine the number to be a bit higher...maybe 12* at peak torque, but that is all just supposition at this point.
Old 01-12-2013, 04:25 PM
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That 1.5* per psi is conservative to start off with in general. Compression, fuel type and air temp will change that depending.
Old 06-23-2017, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Grr
thats pretty much bullshit IMO, I run 8's in pretty much everything and have NEVER fouled a plug, evar
This I run 8-9 plugs on the street never had an issue.
Old 06-23-2017, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tittan1500
This I run 8-9 plugs on the street never had an issue.
I have some family members I need you to help/resurrect.
Old 06-24-2017, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Game ova
I have some family members I need you to help/resurrect.
it's good that people use the search facility...it can help stop the same moronic questions getting asked daily....

Although you'd think the search is broken given the amount of those questions lol
Old 06-25-2017, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
it's good that people use the search facility...it can help stop the same moronic questions getting asked daily....

Although you'd think the search is broken given the amount of those questions lol
I was joking really. I'm not like most guys here (thread age police).
Old 06-26-2017, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by My6speedZ
Can you post a screen capture of your timing curve, I would love to see that. This idea is intriguing to me.



Is this not how most power management systems work? Such as traction control. They detect the slip weather it be via wheel speed sensor, abs sensors or driveshaft speed sensors? Say for instances the computer see a major difference between wheel speed from the front of the car to the back and so it pulls timing until they are within range of each other??

Great thread
We plot the Drive shaft speed over a graph (SR2 in BS3) and control driveshaft speed based on time.

If it goes above the plotted graph, then it'll pull timing out. Tries to catch it fast, we have it set really agressive to really calm it down if it hits a bad spot in the track. It'll pull upwards of 12-15 deg of timing to slow it down. It falls on its face and its very noticeable.



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