It won't fit under a stock hood. I just swapped to the Edelbrock Pro Flo XT. I thought for sure it would sit waaaay higher than my Vic Jr. and Tall Elbow. I have a 4" cowl hood. After the swap, the Pro Flo would actually fit under a stock hood in my car. I believe the vic jr. and short elbow will clear a stock hood though.

Also, IMO you say money isn't an issue. If it isn't than a 6.0 is better to build strictly because of the cubic inches, nothing more. When money is an issue a 5.3 can be made to run close to a 1000hp to the wheels at a whole lot less cost. I run a 180,000 mile stock 5.3, with stock heads, timing chain, water pump, etc. All I did was swap the cam and put on lS9 head gaskets and chinese head studs. I drive a 69 chevelle that weighs nearly 4,000lbs. I had to turn the boost DOWN over 10psi to drive it on the street. It was too much power to even be able to drive. I even have a big *** ET Street Radial on it and I can blow the tires off in 3rd gear at over 100mph easy. My engine was $500 complete and I run the cheap ON3 twin 70mm turbos. $324 shipped to my door. I spent $300 for all my hot and cold side piping. That is budget and my **** runs a 118mph in the 1/8th mile. To me there is just no reason to spend all the extra money to do a 6.0 but to each his own. Plus, I have seen plenty of people tell me they are stronger and forge them, only to still blow them up. The reality is if the tune isn't right, your **** can blow up no matter how much money you put into it to make it strong. If my **** blows and takes out both turbo's in the process, for just over a grand and a days work, I am back on the road again. Not so with a blown forge set up. Just my opinion. Especially, when you are just starting with this stuff. Your engine will blow. It's just the nature of the beast. With Boost it is never enough. lol

 

The low profile elbow will fit under the hood, and it's cheap. It will also make more power on a boosted set-up and not give up much under the curve to a stock intake, and only gain a ton of it back after 4500rpm. With the 6.0 and a 7875 turbo from Huron Speed in the kit he is looking at he won't have to worry about spool.

Also Huron Speed is a dealer for our turbo cams and can get you hooked up. The Stage 1 would be what I would recommend for sure with your cubic inches and turbo selection that comes with the kit. Maybe even a small custom reverse grind.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Maybe you could help me with a question in another thread that no one has answered. Does the fuel psi have to vary with boost psi? Or does the fuel have to stay constant? If it stays constant I've seen lt1 swaps use a 00 corvette FPR/filter to the fuel rail, and some sort of adaptors to make the feed and return lines fit. If the fuel psi has to change then I'm comletely lost as to what the heck I have to do to get fuel. On another note, what fuel psi are you guys running for turbo set ups?

On the intakes, I like the pro flo xt also. Is one better than the other? Seems to me the victor Jr would displace the air more equally, but I know nothing about turbo set ups. With the victor jr would anyone recommend getting the fuel rails with it?

I noticed many people are running the LS9 head gasket. Any reason?

 

So what I've found out on my own is, with a turbo setup you have to have a boost referenced FPR, and a return line. Thats hard for the LS guys because they dont have a return line so they have to make it or something. But I already have a return line. So does this make things easier for me? Any ideas to get me going?

And I'd still like to know what you think of both intakes and LS9 head gasket

 

Merry Christmas everyone!

Martin, thanks for this information! On other applications I've found that turbos throw intake manifold tuning effects totally out the window because the turbo begins producing a very mild level of positive pressure LONG before it really starts to spool hard. For that reason, all you really care about is the overall flow capacity to add top end power (with some mind to distribution). Sounds like this situation is really similar.

Regarding the OP's question about fuel pressure, in other applications you can definitely run a stock fuel pressure regulator (steady pressure) with a non-return line setup, but you are very limited in terms of how much power you can make. The intake manifold pressure at the tip of the injector offsets how much fuel pressure you have forcing fuel through the injector because it's really the pressure differential across/through the spray head/pintle that matters. With a pressure referenced fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure goes up with intake manifold pressure in different amounts based on the setup. This allows you to make more power with smaller injectors, if nothing else. If you already have a return line it's handy, but that is all it is... It's not a terrible situation to setup a return line.

I *ASSUME* this information to be applicable to the LSx situation too, but I'm not all that familiar with all of the specific parts that may be available for them...

 

Lots of guys run ls6 intakes and push good power no problem... if you run the any of the vic intakes yours going to have to modify stuff... Some more than others. I like the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) principal when it comes to taking on a big project so just get an ls6 for now get it dialed in and change it as you see fit when done. Also the ls9 head gasket is a mls (multi layer steel) Type which has the ability to take more boost/timing/cylinder pressure. Think about budget boost cam like the ls9 cam or doing an actual spec'd out cam for your application. Yes return line makes it easier for you.

 

Your gonna want to run dual springs, replace oil pump, get hardened pushrods, Rocker trunion upgrade, New lifters, New timing chain and i think that about it off the top of my head. Along with already stated head studs, boost cam, and ls9 head gaskets. Thats just my opinion though as some will run less and say its fine. I prefer do it once and do it right, the first time.

 

Thanks a lot. I've pretty much added all the parts listed to my notepad. Not only do I trust you but it seems many other are saying the same. Going to start getting parts put together, now just need to find what I need to do fuel line and FPR wise. And I agree, doing it right the fist time is very important for me and what I shoot for. I either spend the money, or dont do it at all.

 

I'd run a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and utilize your stock return line. The Aeromotive regulator or Weldon are both great units that we have used up to and over 800-900rwhp regularly in our shop.

As far as the pushrods, timing chain, oil pump etc. you can normally get a "kit" that includes the after market valve springs needed, hardened chromoly push rods, camshaft and add-ons such as a LS2 timing chain, LS6 oil pump, timing cover gasket and balancer bolt. We offer all of this in a very reasonably priced kit with our own line of turbo cams or a custom cam by myself.

 

Awesome, thanks Martin. I'm getting good info on the fueling thread I made. It sounds even easier than a stock LS because of the LT fuel setup.

Your site is definitely book marked. Thanks. You'll be getting some business from me after my wife moves. I'm deploying in 3 or 4 days. I'll start getting parts together as soon as shes moved and let her hold on to it.

I noticed on your site you do trans rebuilds. Can you rebuild mine but with the LS input shaft and anything else needed to work with the LT master and slave? Or I could change those if its easier/better.

 

We sure can! Our shop would not be what it is today without our 6 speed rebuilds. We lay claim to the fastest true 6 speed T56 in the country which was BESstrokednova's car and IIRC he went 8.80's@154 at the LSX shootout last year.

 

Awesome. I'm a future customer for sure. Like I said I'll start ordering parts in a few months after wife moves and I'll send you the trans as soon as I get back in 9 months. After all, trans is a must to even get the car rolling.

 

Great info for a boost beginner like myself.

 

Sounds good. Let me know when you're ready, should be a fun build.

 

Thanks and will do. I've already lost all accessories up front, sway bar, interior, back seat, radio and speakers, gutted dash, bumper supports and emptied dash and everything else I dont need. Doing mini tubs when I get back. Whatever it takes to hit 10's or even 11's at 3500ft elevation I'll be happy as a clam.