Fbody procharger rebuild possibility question
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,462
Likes: 75
From: Amsterdam Ny, the good part
Fbody procharger rebuild possibility question So i went out to start my car since its been off the road for about a month and notice the procharger isnt that loud . so i give it some revs in the engine bay and strange noise , like a bearing or something going bad .So i rev it and look at the procharger pulley and notice it moves from front of the car to the back like 1/4 back and forth on revs . No revs and it stays still . Do i have a problem and need it rebuilt . i bought it used with i think 5k on it and have put an additional 17k on it in two years . I change the oil with procharger oil at 6k intervals . It was fine before i put it away for the winter. and it has fresh fluid in it .
It sure sounds like it needs some attention. I have had mine for almost a year and have already sent to back to get the seal changed under warranty. While there they replaced a bunch of other things. I was quite surprised it would have needed anything with 1000 miles on it.
If you don't like hearing that everything on your car is a wear part, and the harder you push it, the more **** breaks, then just stop now, because you're really not going to be happy when your stock shortblock ***** the bed and #5 and #7 piston get trashed.
Trust me, it will happen. Maybe not in the first year, or the second or third, but it will happen.
I suggest you read the thread at the top of this section again and again,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
Forced induction is expensive. Things are going to break, and how often they break is in direct proportion to how much power you make and how much stuff you've replaced in preparation for FI.
Trust me, it will happen. Maybe not in the first year, or the second or third, but it will happen.
I suggest you read the thread at the top of this section again and again,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
Forced induction is expensive. Things are going to break, and how often they break is in direct proportion to how much power you make and how much stuff you've replaced in preparation for FI.
If you don't like hearing that everything on your car is a wear part, and the harder you push it, the more **** breaks, then just stop now, because you're really not going to be happy when your stock shortblock ***** the bed and #5 and #7 piston get trashed.
Trust me, it will happen. Maybe not in the first year, or the second or third, but it will happen.
I suggest you read the thread at the top of this section again and again,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
Forced induction is expensive. Things are going to break, and how often they break is in direct proportion to how much power you make and how much stuff you've replaced in preparation for FI.
Trust me, it will happen. Maybe not in the first year, or the second or third, but it will happen.
I suggest you read the thread at the top of this section again and again,
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
Forced induction is expensive. Things are going to break, and how often they break is in direct proportion to how much power you make and how much stuff you've replaced in preparation for FI.
And while I know **** breaks I see it more often than not it's the users fault.. I see it alot when people blow up there motor and when people ask them about how good the tune was and ask about the timing people don't even know! Honestly I have high hope my engine will last because I'm going to run low boost (5-6)lbs and have it tuned "safe". Everyone told me my rear, tranny wouldn't last like it has with full bolt-ons, cam, and n20, but I've kept everything alive by being carefull and not over doing it. Like with my n20 kit I only sprayed a 100 shot and had all the appropriate safety stuff on it to not blow up and to keep the tranny more safe. Stock 4l60e, stock tranny, stock internal engine all with 52k miles and lots of track time, wot street racing and spraying n20 and everything still runs perfect!
I wasn't trying to bash or make you feel bad. Point is, you're pushing the mechanical parts of the car harder than they were ever designed to. Some of the failures are user related, but others are simply exceeding the failure threshol level of the part.
I too am on the stock 10-bolt, and while I am confident it will last a while since I'm street only, I'm sure all it's going to take is a bad wheel hop under boost and it's going to fail. And when that day comes, I'll toss in another 10-bolt for $300.
Al I was getting at is don't read every thread and get nervous. To your point, don't take shortcuts and it should help, but sometimes **** just happens.
EDIT: If you read his post again, he bought it used, and was told it only had 5k on it, and he put another 17k on it. Could the previous owner lied about how many miles were on it? What if the previous owner never changed the oil and it ran low and damaged bearings. This would be a different thing if he bought the head unit brand new and now after 1k miles it is shitting the bed, but it has AT LEAST 22K miles on it with unknown maintenance.
To Ramairetransam, sorry to hear it is having issues, first thing I would do is drop the head unit and check the pulley to make sure it's bolted up tight. Who knows, stranger things have happened.
Last edited by The Alchemist; Jan 1, 2013 at 07:02 AM.
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EDIT: If you read his post again, he bought it used, and was told it only had 5k on it, and he put another 17k on it. Could the previous owner lied about how many miles were on it? What if the previous owner never changed the oil and it ran low and damaged bearings. This would be a different thing if he bought the head unit brand new and now after 1k miles it is shitting the bed, but it has AT LEAST 22K miles on it with unknown maintenance.
just pointing out what he was talking out with the 1000 mile blower
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,462
Likes: 75
From: Amsterdam Ny, the good part
i think they key to not having blower leaking problems is starting up the car every three weeks and letting it run for a good amount of time . I did the every 3 week thing last year and it worked good , no leaks .
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 672
Likes: 3
From: Washington Crossing, PA
I forget what site I read it on but it seems to be common for them to leak (drop or two not a puddle) because they are a sealed unit and create pressure inside from not being vented. There's been a few write ups around on people rebuilding them themselves. It doesn't look bad, you just need patients with it. They list where to buy the parts from. Just goggle procharger rebuild.
