putting together longblock for boost, need help
My dilemma now is this: I've never done an LS longblock before. I've done some searching, but I haven't been able to find concrete info on what will hold this kind of power. I AM on a budget (it feels wierd saying that, looking at how much money I'm dumping into this car), and trying to sort out what's needed and what isn't is getting me all kinds of frazzled. I don't want to spend money where I don't have to.
Right now I'm thinking forged iron block 408, ~8.5CR. I don't know what internals will hold, I'm at a complete loss as to what heads I should go with... Yeah. this is scary new territory for me. I was leaning towards a cathedral port heads as I already have a pristine fast 92 and ptm throttle body to put on it.
the goal is upwards of 800 whp, but I'll be running a boost controller and it won't be cranked up all the time. weekend grudge runs and the occasional track day, maybe. the goal is to have a retarded street car. I'm tired of getting beat by all the procharged C6's that seem to be running around.
so, what do y'all think? crank, rods, pistons, heads? help an fi newbie out. any sponsors, feel free to chime in, as well. I'm trying not to break the bank too bad on this thing.
but if set on that callies,k1 would be just fine for bottom end parts.
pistons I would get closer to the 9.0-9.5 range to keep good down ow off boost
I was spec'd 8.5 due to my requirement that the car run on pump gas with no Meth. if I can meet my power goals with more compression, chime in.
e85 isn't an option here. there are only like 3 pumps in the area.
as far as bottom end stuff... when do certain cranks let go?
good budget rod that will hold my intended power level? (same for pistons)
big bore heads that won't break the bank and like boost
Texas Speed 370 Iron block---great prices, great people. leaves more cylinder wall thickness than the 408.
If you have the coin, ERL 6 bolt. Worth every penny from those who use them, and based on what I have seen and heard from different drivers. You can also run more cubes and still have great strength.
I would not go with that compression ratio. Mine is 9:3 and I already wish it was higher.
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tsp wanted to upgrade their package when I called, longblock was going to be over 9 grand. that doesn't really fit into the budget.
sounds like 9:1 CR would be a better choice for me, though.
anyone know if reputable builders are offering last heads?
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please forgive me... I've been doing a lot of reading, but I'm still behind the curve on boosted ls's. I DID switch over from the dark side, after all
here are the details and the link itself.
I've had many contact me for 5.3 boost shortblock, I listen and here we go.
Diamond piston 3.830" bore, -5cc inv. dome dish
Total Seal ring set
Scat I beam rods, 4340 forged, ARP bolts
Factory crankshaft polished and balanced
Clevite bearings, durabond cam bearings
5.3 iron block machined and assembled
$2599
Compression ratio using GM MLS gasket
w/ 60cc chamber 10:1
w/ 64cc chamber 9.6:1
w/ 66cc chamber 9.4:1
w/ 68cc chamber 9.2:1
w/ 70cc chamber 9:1
Upgrades,
Scat H beam rods +$100
Total Seal AP top ring +$100
ARP main studs +$188
Aluminum 5.3 block +$200
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ck-2599-a.html
stock crank and a set of k1 or callies rods, good name brand piston and let it eat.
I'll call AES later and see what they can do for me. TSP was just too damned pricey.
the 5.3 is way cheaper than our 390's though. and just as reliable if not more so. The 5.3 is great power for the money.




