Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried it first to see if you can or are you just thinking that it won't? Lean it out, use that timing table I suggested and I would think you can get some boost going. I know a couple guys with turbo's very similar to yours that are able to build boost at 2600-2800rpm easily with advanced timing and lean AFR.

It's going to take some playing with to get it right. Took me a couple track outings once I knew what I was suppose to do to get it right.

James@ShorTuning

Def a good thread! There are a ton of different tricks to use in the stock Gen3 PCM. Now that I have EFILives COS I now have the ability to manipulate timing on 3 different stages and then some if I wanted to use the IAT or ECT trick.

I don't personally like the IAT or ECT trick because usually on a boosted car it runs in SD and the IAT and ECT are key components in fueling calculations. You can set them up so that it doesnt hurt fuel normally but its much easier to just deal with the other options I have than build a circuit with a specific resistor for a certain temperature.

I normally use the traction control input to pull the desired amount of timing for my panic button. Very simple to implement and has a RPM based timing pull table when that input is grounded.

The other method is using the idle spark tables and set them up so that the main spark table isn't triggered until a certain speed. So you now have a speed based timing table that will only switch to the main table after a certain speed and TPS. I use this alot on street cars to get them launched on the street. Pulling about 10-12* out of one up to 20-30mph really keeps a car hooked up! This is the table to use on boosted cars to generate boost. You can easily track what g/cyl correlates to what boost level and manipulate the timing as boost increases. Then once you launch the car and it sees over the set mph it instantly switches back to the main spark table!

There is more you can do with more sensor inputs but I think there is enough here for you guys to rack your brains over!

OldGold

iTrader: (1)

No, I have no tried anything yet. I really can't play with it until this weekend. I want to see how quickly it will spool by just pulling some fuel so the A/F is more in line with 12.5-13:1 while on the anti-lag. I was almost there, I just need to get it to the 2 step and it will go the rest of the way. If I don't have success with that, I am willing to try your suggested timing table. This is ONLY for racing, so I am not that concerned with side effects. It puts heat in the trans for sure, but not enough to be concerned with.

Mike

dville_gt

iTrader: (5)

does the 0411 have this input? i see the table in my tune but don't see a traction control pin out. you know which pin needs to be grounded?

James@ShorTuning

Just going from memory here but I seem to recall it being red connector pin 53. This is generally only operational on FBodies. This won't work on the C5's due to them having ETC for traction control and torque management.

I've been trying to figure out what bit in the binary controls that pin 53 functionality because sometimes customers like the original OS left in their car so its not bound to one software and using this input on the C5s and other ETC enabled applications for various reasons would be awesome. There has to be a switch in the calibration somewhere to reference that pin for timing retard. You'll notice C5's don't even have a wire in that pin location.

You can then use EFILives COS5 to enable the red connector pin 56 timing retard and fuel control to do another stage...

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Pulling fuel on the anti lag is the opposite of what you want to do. Either pull fuel and add timing or add fuel and pull timing.

OldGold

iTrader: (1)

Well, I am only going off of what changed between when Matt had the car, and when I got the car. He sent me the tune and he added some fuel in the mid range boost areas since I had mentioned being a bit nervous seeing 12's when on boost. He was able to easily get to 14 psi on the anti-lag and hit the 2 step, and I am not. That is all we can think of.

Mike

OldGold

iTrader: (1)

5% reduction in fuel and it got right up on the 2 step. Took another 1% out and going back out to re-test. Video failed on the last attempt.

Mike

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

So you pulled fuel while anti lag was active or before?

ren987

iTrader: (4)

I am not arguing that there are not better ways to accomplish this. But you do not have to build a circuit to trigger the iat trick method. All I did was run a normally closed sitch in line with the iat sensor and when I open the circuit it reads -38* so in the lowest Iat table I will just take timing out in that area. And there will NEVER be a time when my car sees -38*.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

The only issue with that is in a sd tune the iat sensor plays a large roll in your fueling. Unless you have your iat biased all the way to the ect side of things.

ren987

iTrader: (4)

I see what you are saying, I only use The Iat trick when my car is on the line with the clutch pressed in. And I would have to agree the fueling does change substantially because my duty cycle is around 100% on the two step wot @ 6600 rpm but its a good thing for me I have 10 psi in an instant with 2 76mm's on 346ci cam only set up.

OldGold

iTrader: (1)

Some videos of me trying to hook today with the anti-lag. Too cold to hook anything better than 7-8 psi:




Best 60 was 1.59, spinning.

This is on wastegate, launching at 10 psi. It spun hard after this:



Mike

Fast86z

iTrader: (1)

So did advancing the timing and pulling fuel do the trick?

99WS6_

iTrader: (1)

Is a 2 step possible on a forged lq4 with a t7875 .94. Six speed?

djt81185

iTrader: (3)

Can you go into more detail on how you setup these tables and how you set up the MPH/TPS boundaries for triggering which table to use? I see the tables in HPTuners but they are noted as being closed throttle tables and I dont see any tables to adjust the MPH or TPS at which they are active/inactive.

Thanks

awd-rwd racer

iTrader: (16)

also, im currently running speed density, no maf, no o2's. i read above that the iat trick is not a good idea for my setup. any other tricks i can do to make this work on my car? my buddy just setup the Iat antilag with his sti engine and its bad ***.