How are these stock 5.3 staying together
02-05-2013, 04:08 PM
#24
You mentioned little bearings that look like sprinkles in your filter.... I'm guessing the rocker arm trunion bearings have "sprinkled" out.
Brian Tooley sells the Com Cams trunion rebuild kit and it takes only about 2-3hrs to do them the 1st time per set. After that its about 5 minutes per rocker arm as you get the hang of it. www.briantooleyracing.com
Brian Tooley sells the Com Cams trunion rebuild kit and it takes only about 2-3hrs to do them the 1st time per set. After that its about 5 minutes per rocker arm as you get the hang of it. www.briantooleyracing.com
02-05-2013, 04:33 PM
#27
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well the thicker it is the longer it takes to reach the top of the engine. im not saying that, thats what did it, but keep that in mind. the cam should spin freely with no binding what soever. i belive the factory called for atleast .0015
02-05-2013, 05:59 PM
#28
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mehhhh. i personally run them that tight with no issues at all. but that is thick ******* oil. you could prolly get away with 10-40 rotella easy lol. I see more cam bearing toast in the ls engines that i rebuild...#4 is the main culperate. it gets starved for oil. heats up. when you shut the car off it shrinks to the cam, and spins on the next start up. funny thing though... never hurts the block. I have two that i just put new bearing in, and didnt line hone them... have over 100k since overhaul. how did the cam spin when you slid it in?
As far as warming up an engine, for a drive around town or wherever I crank it up and let it run for 30 seconds or so then don't rough house it until its nice and warm. Now on a 0-40 degree day, I crank it up early and let it run 5-10 minutes to let it at least move the temp gauge before I start driving. I'm no racer or anything. That oil does sound pretty heavy, in my DD I use 10-30 or 15-40(if one is on sale I use it but, it's also not FI.) It just doesn't seem like oil that heavy wouldn't be good for a turbo. Seems it would be slow getting to it and slow draining causing higher pressure and could lead to seal issues later on down the road. I would think 5-20 or 10-30 would be better for it, quicker getting to the turbo and quicker getting out of it.
02-05-2013, 06:34 PM
#29
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I plan on changing my oil 3 times till I hit 500 miles. Im gonna run 10-30 with some zinc & phosphorus additive for the brake then change it at 100 miles, then do it again at 250 then again at 500 but use Mobil 1 15W-50 ("which is race-proven, specifically formulated with a high zinc content and high viscosity to protect the extreme environments of high performance engines.") This is what my boss said to do...I trust him. What yall think about it?
02-05-2013, 08:28 PM
#30
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Ex Once the ship has sailed your a gonner. I think most of it deals with high rpm and oil drain back. I always run a extra quart of oil. Seams to do the trick.
So to ease this if you let the engine idle and cool back down after a good thrashing will that help eliminate bearing seizure? What is the cause of this starvation? Poor flow from the oil passage? Stuff getting in there and clogging them up? Is there anything that can be done to fix the issue?
As far as warming up an engine, for a drive around town or wherever I crank it up and let it run for 30 seconds or so then don't rough house it until its nice and warm. Now on a 0-40 degree day, I crank it up early and let it run 5-10 minutes to let it at least move the temp gauge before I start driving. I'm no racer or anything. That oil does sound pretty heavy, in my DD I use 10-30 or 15-40(if one is on sale I use it but, it's also not FI.) It just doesn't seem like oil that heavy wouldn't be good for a turbo. Seems it would be slow getting to it and slow draining causing higher pressure and could lead to seal issues later on down the road. I would think 5-20 or 10-30 would be better for it, quicker getting to the turbo and quicker getting out of it.
As far as warming up an engine, for a drive around town or wherever I crank it up and let it run for 30 seconds or so then don't rough house it until its nice and warm. Now on a 0-40 degree day, I crank it up early and let it run 5-10 minutes to let it at least move the temp gauge before I start driving. I'm no racer or anything. That oil does sound pretty heavy, in my DD I use 10-30 or 15-40(if one is on sale I use it but, it's also not FI.) It just doesn't seem like oil that heavy wouldn't be good for a turbo. Seems it would be slow getting to it and slow draining causing higher pressure and could lead to seal issues later on down the road. I would think 5-20 or 10-30 would be better for it, quicker getting to the turbo and quicker getting out of it.
02-06-2013, 05:07 AM
#33
I agree there will always be a little bit of metal in a fresh engine if hone, and new rings are used. 20/50W dyno is too thick IMO for that clearance. I've always ran my engines tight .0018~.002'' run 5/30 ~ 5/40 synthetic and never had a problem. Id want .0025'' rod~.003'' main clearance min for 20/50. The tight clearance is what helps these engines stay together IMO.
02-07-2013, 12:24 AM
#39
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You can drop the oil pan a tad and use the magnet to inspect a tad, as well. But, metal is obviously never a good sign. Agree with above comments concerning oil, quite heavy.
Hate to say it, but karma for karma. Sorry, not sorry.
Hate to say it, but karma for karma. Sorry, not sorry.
