Wicked69

Not dead set. They were given to me for $50 with 10 passes on them. Looked brand new. I will run 275/60, 295/65, or 315/60s. Just whatever they people have available used.

Wicked69

I have a dedicated slick for racing but use the DRs for Super Chevy True Street and LS Fest. So only 3 races a year.

Wicked69

I could just start using a dedicated radial and not use it on the street but still have to do the cruises and passes. How many passes is average for a new set if I didnt drive on them?

FwIW...I feel silly calling my car high HP after seeing that video. lol

DHR Darren

iTrader: (1)

The new 275 Pro's are working better on many cars lately than the 315's.
For optimum results you really need two sets of tires. If it was me I'd keep the 315's for driving on and get a set of 275 Pros for the track only.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

People sell them with 10-15 passes because they lose there grip.

You want to hook, use new tires and only at the track.

I run reg MT 275s on the street and have seperate rims with my MT pros for the track. I figure 2 race days,then the tires are changed.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

FWIW Don we got like 35 runs out of a set of 315's on Andy's car, low 1.2 short times.

90/10's and no boost controller, I'm out.

silver_82

Post some vids like others have mentioned. Have you plotted out your susp yet? what kind of bushings do you use? how much front end travel do you have?

You want the wheelies back and only want 1.30s so I dont know if I would go out and spend big $$$ on shocks yet.

Use free moving heims or delrin bushings on every joint, lose any poly or rubber bushings if you have them. You want the susp to move freely the only resistance to movement should be if the shock is telling it to. Make sure you have at least 4 to 5 inches of travel up front. Set the front shocks to full loose

Plot out the rear susp and like martin + others have said, set it up to separate in the rear. Get someone to vid your launches, good vid, not from the stands. Tune the DA rear shocks you already have according to what the vid tells you. If it separates to quick tighten up the extension, too slow, loosen it, ect ect.

I like to use about 17-18 psi on my 315's (12in wheels)

Hit that tire hard, lots of boost and rpm. You already need that since you have a heavy car and a glide anyway

That vid earlier is kinda hard to see the rear separation, so here is mine; cant miss it. I race true street and need to have a "dead hook" susp tune on account of changing track conditions. So while my 60ft may not be the fastest it is damn consistent.

After you get tired of wheelies and replacing oil pans, you will start to tighten up the front and limit travel

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

Yeah we had a local X275 race this weekend, they had a couple guys running 4.60's and one guy I talked to running 4.70's, he told me he gets 20-25 passes out of the newer M/T Pro 275's. I was impressed that he was running that quick and getting that many passes out a set of tires.

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

Like the others have said. The DR needs to be driven into the ground. Like John said I run the tries for a while. I just back from FL racing and the tires were from the middle of last summer 1.23 60' 4.790 to the 1/8th . I think the tires work better the more they are run, I don't like new tires! I have 0 travel in the front end.

Wicked69

Okay gentlemen. Here are a few pictures and videos of my car. Sorry they are not the greatest. Thanks for all the info. I think it will help a lot of people.

Here is a current video but on brand new slicks. The suspension is set on full stiff compr and full soft extension, front tightened down:

silver_82

Have someone get some vid in the perspective like the trz clip.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

John, do you street drive those as well? I am honestly curious about the heat cycling killing a drag radial thing. I thought that was kind of the purpose of the street/drag tires was to be able to drive them on the street.

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

This is a very good thread! Subscribed! Also to the OP, your car looks awesome! My fiance wants one just like yours!

runsfromdacops

watching this thread closely as getting my caddy (4200lbs on a 275 DR) to hook at the track is going to be a nightmare.

not to get off topic but how do you guys feel about strange D/A rear shocks? i see most guys are using afcos

Wicked69

I am running it tomorrow on the worn down drag radials and not the slicks. I will try and get someone to video it from that angle. Thanks again for all the help. My car is not even in the class of those guys on the video but I still appreciate all the help. I may order some new DR's tomorrow and do 2 day shipping if she doesn't hook tomorrow. I want to run some low 9's at Super Chevy after a 3 hr drive there.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Running your best ET and getting a crowd-pleasing wheelie are mutually exclusive.

If you cruise the car a lot I'd keep your racing tires off the car.

I heard the guy say 6.0x @ 113 on a 1.45. I went a 1.35 9.40@145 many years ago. Sounds about right. You don't have those turbos working too hard it sounds like.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Your weight bias sounds about right for your power level. We run about 54-55% on the front with 1000rwhp@3100-3200lbs. I have some friends running the same times as we do in our class that are utilizing as much as 57% on the nose and need more. We are not allowed a boost controller or progressive so this can change with power management adjustability.

What does your car weigh? If you're running the old style M/T you need less tire PSI. The stiffer sidewalls of the old M/T on a 3100-3200lbs. car that doesn't have a boat load of separation usually like 15-17psi. The more separation you have the more tire pressure you have to run normally to keep from balling the tire up and going into tire shake. Also the heavier the car the more PSI you need, opposite for lighter.

I think you need more control in the front. The front end is probably too loose right now causing issues of it's own. Loose normally means it will at least hook, but with the shock type you have you can cause the rear end to un load with the front shock set that loose with no independent compression valving. As you loosen the front shock on a single adjustable or 90/10 style shock it loosens the compression setting as well. This will cause the front end to bounce when it sets down and unload the rear tires. You want the front end to stay up or level with no bounce as it can cause unloading issues.

If you're not running in a class that mandates no boost controllers I'd get one. At your power level you are quite possibly leaving a lot of time on the table. If you want a decently priced option that offers a lot of control check out the Boost Leash from Leash Electronics. It is a CO2 controlled boost controller. He also offers it with a bump box option as well.

How much separation does the car have now? Too much separation can cause you to band-aid other issues that come from having too much anti-squat(a measure of separation or squat). You can waste a ton of energy using too much separation. You want to use just enough separation to plant the tire for the power you're making and get the tire to work for you. A lot of times if you have too much separation as well you band-aid it with compression setting in the shock by having it cranked full tight.

Main thing is get some videos showing the suspension work and ask others that have done this before what to do next.
Great points made here
Exactly, getting the most out of your car E.T. wise will not involve any type of wheelie.

Here are some more good examples:

clebmotors

iTrader: (2)

great info in here, subscribed!

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I know these videos don't show the rear suspension working, but check out the first gen camaro in these videos and how it leaves every time. Note the very aggressive front end rake it has, but watch how when it leaves it leaves level each and every single time. This is the sign of a very well set-up leaf sprung car.

Wicked69

Wow! I am blow away. I did exactly as you guys said. My tires are toast and still set a new best! Full street trim which means drag radials and full exhaust, NO skinnies, etc. I made 3 passes today and each time I did better. 60fts were 1.50, 1.49, and finally 1.43. This on a 315/60 with 3.42 gears and a powerglide in a 3680lb car.

Here is a video of the last pass. Super Chevy here I come!