BTW - if you want a cheap way to measure pressure at the pump outlet you could probably rig up something with hose fittings and a pressure gauge coming off of a T-fitting. Most big hardware stores sell a simple dial pressure gauge used by plumbers to check what your home water pressure is. It is threaded to go onto a standard home hose fitting so it would be easy to adapt (temporarily) to an intercooler system.

A quick Google search finds them at Amazon.com and ebay for around $5 to $15.



A few more $ for a t-fitting of the correct size, some hose barb fittings and clamps and you have a temporary intercooler system pressure gauge.

 

This test was just of water pump flow. Thermal testing would be much more expensive/time consuming to do correctly and isolate all the variables.

The data in the bar graph was with 3/4" hose (the fittings on the Stewart pump are cast into the pump design and are 1" so we had to adapt down to 3/4" for the test). Your other system restrictions would likely be a bigger variable on pump flow than the 3/4" hose alone but if any pump does well at high differential pressures/high restriction levels, the EMP pump is one of them. Haven't seen many electric pumps that work as well at high differential pressures.

 

Hey Jason,

I'm trying to figure out how to use the ZR1 pump (which I've already bought) with the GMPP LS9 harness. The ZR1 pump uses a two wire connector, and the harness has three wires. I'm guessing the ZR1 pump is PWM-controlled.

Just wondering if there's any information out there about that.

jp

 

I see this is a older thread but if the op or anyone else can answer, so from the data I get you reallly want the best flowing least restricted setup, so with that as goal is there any benefit running 1inch hose if the pump has 3/4 outlet? Im thinking it'd probably only be worth it if the AtoW had or I tapped to 1inch as well

 

Yeah, I looked at the month, but not the year, when searching for something about these pumps.

 

UAlso I know the AtoWs that have the same side outlets(dual pass style) flow like crap, but what if I added an outlet(s) on the opposite side? I'm guessing that might work pretty well, and id think having the heated water split up would help it cool down on its way to the exchanger. I ask cause I can get one cheap.

Also is there any type of hose that is superior than others I'm thinking aluminum would be best for the "hot" lines and a insulated hose for the "cold" routing.

 

I have a CX racing A2W that is dual pass. I am going to drill the opposite end tanks and Y each inlet and return. Kind of a pain, but should work much better this way.

 

after thinking about it i think it may be better cause you could have 2 lines 2 tanks or divider and 2 pumps those bosche svt are super cheap now unless i was seeing knockoffs, and have regular water on then a secondary ice tank saturday night special.

 

No, the ZR1 pump is not PWM controlled. It is just simple on/off control. The ZL1 pump can have an external speed control signal but the way it is wired in the GMPP harness and in the ZL1 Camaro is also just full on all the time.

The extra wire in the ZL1 pump GMPP connector is what tells the ZL1 pump to go full on. Pins #1 and #5 on the ZL1/GMPP harness are the same circuit (2022 on the ZL1) and are both coolant pump control +12Vdc. On the ZL1 they are both a tan wire and tie together further down the harness. I don't have a GMPP diagram but I believe it is similar on the GMPP harness.

M10 Charge Air Cooling Coolant Pump (LSA)
Pin Wire Circuit Function
1 0.5 TN 2022 Coolant Pump Control
2 — — Not Used
3 — — Not Used
4 0.5 BK 2650 Ground
5 0.5 TN 2022 Coolant Pump Control

On the ZR1 pump it is just power and ground:
Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Coolant Pump (LS9)
Pin Wire Circuit Function
1 2.0 BK 1250 Ground
2 2.0 TN 2022 Coolant Pump Control

The ZR1 pump uses a fairly standard Sumitomo/Minitimer connector just like you will find on older fuel injectors, the Bosch intercooler pumps and many other applications.

The ZR1 pump does pull a little more current (around 9 amps instead of 6 or 7 for the ZL1 pump). Either one should be controlled by a relay and not directly by the ECM. Either one should have a roughly 15 amp fuse in the circuit.

For the ZR1 pump you just need power and ground. You should be able to tie the two power wires together from the GMPP harness or remove one of the two power wires and connect that to pin #2 on the LS9 pump. Pin #1 is ground and that should go to pin #4 on the LSA pump.

I attached connector end view images to this post (these are the mating connectors, not the connector on the pump itself).

 

The hose is not usually the primary restriction unless you have long lengths of hose or lots of bends. Increase the hose size, especially on the inlet side would likely help more than the outlet side (because of the way the pumps usually operate). Increasing the hose size would allow you to use larger fittings and the fittings are usually a bigger restriction since they are smaller in ID than the hose they connect to.

 

Is there a way to run the Varimax pump at full spped all the time? I will not be controlling it with PWM.

 

Yes, we normally run the Varimax at full speed all the time. Not many systems are configured for PWM pump speed control (although we will soon be releasing a controller that provides this feature for stand-alone PWM controlled pumps and fans).

The wiring harness configuration we use in our CTS-V kit and in our Bosch adapter harness for the Varimax put it into full speed all the time (no PWM control).

One thing to keep in mind with any of these types of pumps (or fans) that have on-board motor controllers, they usually have a soft start feature where the pump gradually gets up to speed when turned on so you won't be at full flow the instant the pump is turned on (same is true for the OEM ZL1 pump, ZR1 pump etc.).

 

Hi Jason,

Have you tested a positive displacement pump such as the following? http://www.seaflo.com/en/productDetail_238.html

I know the flow is much lower but I assume it would flow the same, or close to, up to the pressure limit??

 

We haven't tested that particular pump. If you have one you want to send in we would be happy to flow test it.

Some of the other pumps similar to that pump that we have tested just don't flow much. With the positive displacement pumps the rated flow at a given pressure doesn't usually go up much when the pressure is lower.

 

Thanks, I'll remember that if I don't just buy your pump. I'm putting an ice cooler in the trunk. I'll have long lines with a lot of pressure drop so a positive displacement pump may work better for me.

 

Jason,
I bought a couple of these and plan to run in parallel to get the flow up. If I send one to you what is the turn around time for the testing?
Thanks, Julian