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Drivability of a F1A

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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #21  
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Love that sound!
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Cam72aro
A f1a on a stock motor is overkill. . . Driveability as far as bucking is tune related, but usually is a result of camshaft. F1A works best on a bigger cube motor with good heads. It will work for now, but it won't be the best combo. Also, get ready to get tired of blower whine. I went from a F1A to a turbo.
And I'm glad you got rid of it haha.

I drove mine around with the f1a, th400, and a 4000 stall and it drove fine. Sum bitch sounds like a jet fighter with the race valve. I love the looks it gets.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1RedZ
And I'm glad you got rid of it haha.

I drove mine around with the f1a, th400, and a 4000 stall and it drove fine. Sum bitch sounds like a jet fighter with the race valve. I love the looks it gets.
lol. . . i am glad its working out for you. I got tired of the whine and the air out the race valve sound. I love my turbo much more.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 12:16 AM
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Will an f1x actually fit on let's say an Aster Bracket or is the biggest blower we can run in original configuration an F1C?

Oh yeah and to add to the tally I love my blower whine and am looking for more!!
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:40 AM
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I think the issues with the F1 fitment is the inlet. The truck inlet hat is a tight fit, but it's somewhat restrictive, even on a D1. So to get the most out of an F1, I think the radiator needs to be moved to allow for space to run a better radiused inlet.
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:38 PM
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I am moving the radiator forward here soon. Bob said the aster should fit the F1-X but that is a large blower that makes gobs of boost. We would need to talk with Chris about getting a 10 rib setup and find a way to get the pulleys to line up on the crank and space the bracket and add on a brace to the side of the motor like the Schoeneck cog bracket. The F1-x is alot bigger than you thing. Even moving the radiator forward it would be hard to fit it. a 10 or 12 rib setup would be prime for that blower. it would also require a 6 bolt block with studs to really use it. Even with the F1-R and the radiator moved forward the inlet hat is still a tight fit. I have seen the photos recently from JJcamaros thread.


The solutions are pretty far out, what really needs to happen is a relocation of the blower.

It seems to me, that if the alternator can be relocated and fit that the blower should be able to be as well with a little bit of fab work. change some of the charge pipes.


This is all leading to the reason I will be going turbo next year.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
josepy runs an f1-c on his forged 347 and made 810 on a mustang dyno.

it has been stated that the driveability is mostly related to stalls cams clutches and tuning. The f1-a will only become a factor when you start giving it the footfeed. traction is the thing it changes. Belt alignment is very important. An auto tensioned bracket will be needed when you really start spinning it to avoid the belt slip. With a 429 LSX I would be inclined to tell you to find a way to grab an F1-X later on down the road. A D1 would be fine now, and they sell quickly. save the money so you wont have to lose as much later when you upgrade. bigger market for d1's usually.
Yes sir it did. Actually looking to get rid of the f1c and go back to a F1a or D1. I do not race the car just a toy/ stress reliever. I only bought the F1c because of what it came with. Aster bracket is what sold me on it. What is a used low mile F1c worth? lol
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 11:22 AM
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Some of the people talking about blower whine not being an issue haven't had to daily drive one on the highway. Its great around town. Throttle blips sound awesome. It turns heads everywhere. Then you drive it 45 minutes down the highway. Blower whine on the highway at a steady rpm is worse than exhaust drone on the highway. Exhaust drone is bad enough, but at least the tone doesn't become painful to listen to after a few months.

If its just a fun cruiser, go for it. But my god, if you ever plan on taking trips anywhere with it, the F1 is going to wear you thin.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
The solutions are pretty far out, what really needs to happen is a relocation of the blower.

It seems to me, that if the alternator can be relocated and fit that the blower should be able to be as well with a little bit of fab work. change some of the charge pipes.


This is all leading to the reason I will be going turbo next year.
Whaaatt??? you haven't driven the car yet, and you're already planning to go turbo next year...lol. I thought I changed my mind a lot.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Whaaatt??? you haven't driven the car yet, and you're already planning to go turbo next year...lol. I thought I changed my mind a lot.
yes sir. if I end up needing more power that will be how I get it along with a LSX 427. This build is almost done, and I am one of the people that will enjoy the journey as much as the arrival to the destination. I will keep it that way for a while if it runs a 8.99
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by HexenLord
Some of the people talking about blower whine not being an issue haven't had to daily drive one on the highway. Its great around town. Throttle blips sound awesome. It turns heads everywhere. Then you drive it 45 minutes down the highway. Blower whine on the highway at a steady rpm is worse than exhaust drone on the highway. Exhaust drone is bad enough, but at least the tone doesn't become painful to listen to after a few months.

If its just a fun cruiser, go for it. But my god, if you ever plan on taking trips anywhere with it, the F1 is going to wear you thin.
Couldn't have said it better. This is what I was getting at.
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