Drivability of a F1A
04-23-2013, 09:16 AM
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Drivability of a F1A I tried searching for this but didn't seem to have any luck.
I was just wondering how the drivability is of a F1A. It will be on a bone stock 2000 WS6 A4 until i get the LSX built.
Will I have an issues with surging at low RPMS or bucking. Any input would help.
Thanks.
I was just wondering how the drivability is of a F1A. It will be on a bone stock 2000 WS6 A4 until i get the LSX built.
Will I have an issues with surging at low RPMS or bucking. Any input would help.
Thanks.
04-23-2013, 10:54 AM
#2
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My friend had one on a stock bottom end ls1. It drove great . He drove that thing everywhere. So I would say the drivability was awesome it didn't buck at low speeds at all.
04-23-2013, 09:22 PM
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I have a F1A in my bone stock SS. Drives fine with no surging or bucking. The only difference is that mines a M6. Be prepared cause it takes alot for a stock engine to turn that big blower. My car definelty doesn't run like a procharged car. Better get some nice sticky tires too.
04-23-2013, 09:33 PM
#5
A f1a on a stock motor is overkill. . . Driveability as far as bucking is tune related, but usually is a result of camshaft. F1A works best on a bigger cube motor with good heads. It will work for now, but it won't be the best combo. Also, get ready to get tired of blower whine. I went from a F1A to a turbo.
04-23-2013, 10:10 PM
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A f1a on a stock motor is overkill. . . Driveability as far as bucking is tune related, but usually is a result of camshaft. F1A works best on a bigger cube motor with good heads. It will work for now, but it won't be the best combo. Also, get ready to get tired of blower whine. I went from a F1A to a turbo.
That's like getting tired of *******!!! 
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04-24-2013, 02:13 AM
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Thanks all! Yes it is a big blower for the stock cubes, but would you all agree just buy the F1 from the start and not go D1 and have to upgrade when the motor is built?
04-24-2013, 09:22 AM
#11
I love the sound of the blower, but then again, I'm not trying to get races. Mine is simply a really fun street/cruise-in car, and when pulling into events, it definitely is hard to miss or ignore. Because it's mounted down low on an f-body, I find it's not as noticable in the drivers seat as you might think.
As for putting an F1 on a stock cube motor, be careful. From what I understand, an F1 is sluggish if you don't spin it pretty high, meaning more than 10+ psi of boost. Not sure how well that's going to work on a stock motor. You might be happier picking up a used D1 while on the stock motor, then build your new motor, and step up to an F1 if you find the need. Trust me, there's always a market for quality D1's.
As for putting an F1 on a stock cube motor, be careful. From what I understand, an F1 is sluggish if you don't spin it pretty high, meaning more than 10+ psi of boost. Not sure how well that's going to work on a stock motor. You might be happier picking up a used D1 while on the stock motor, then build your new motor, and step up to an F1 if you find the need. Trust me, there's always a market for quality D1's.
04-24-2013, 09:24 AM
#12
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To be honest this is a project car that I plan to have around for a while, so I don't want to limit myself. But, you make a good point because over 800 on the street won't be safe, or fun. I'll be building an LSX 429ci motor so it only seems to fit going with the F1 off the bat. Everytime I think I have the idea of what i want, i second guess it!
04-24-2013, 09:38 AM
#13
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I'm with Alchemist, I don't think i'll ever get tired of the blower wine! And as for street racing, I did that in college and have a hard enough time getting insurance...
04-24-2013, 10:12 AM
#14
josepy runs an f1-c on his forged 347 and made 810 on a mustang dyno.
it has been stated that the driveability is mostly related to stalls cams clutches and tuning. The f1-a will only become a factor when you start giving it the footfeed. traction is the thing it changes. Belt alignment is very important. An auto tensioned bracket will be needed when you really start spinning it to avoid the belt slip. With a 429 LSX I would be inclined to tell you to find a way to grab an F1-X later on down the road. A D1 would be fine now, and they sell quickly. save the money so you wont have to lose as much later when you upgrade. bigger market for d1's usually.
it has been stated that the driveability is mostly related to stalls cams clutches and tuning. The f1-a will only become a factor when you start giving it the footfeed. traction is the thing it changes. Belt alignment is very important. An auto tensioned bracket will be needed when you really start spinning it to avoid the belt slip. With a 429 LSX I would be inclined to tell you to find a way to grab an F1-X later on down the road. A D1 would be fine now, and they sell quickly. save the money so you wont have to lose as much later when you upgrade. bigger market for d1's usually.
Last edited by I8UR4RD; 04-24-2013 at 10:18 AM.
04-24-2013, 10:30 AM
#16
If only for the interm, get it and bolt it on. Pulley it accordingly and have fun until you build the motor you want.
A good tune will make it driver very stockish....
A good tune will make it driver very stockish....
