Project Land Whale (Silverado Turbo Build)
#82
Truck is all done and currently we are trying to button up the tuning. Ryan (MaxxMitchell) has been doing some e-tuning for me and is coming up this weekend to tune in realtime. I also had some tuning help from RedRocketZ28. I have it at 9-10psi right now with plans to tune for 18psi this weekend.
I plastidipped the front bumper white while I was finishing everything up as well.
Here is a very rough quality video of me playing around the 2nd time it was out. I launched at 1800ish with no boost and as soon as it rolled into power it starts to blow the wheels off pretty good. I let out of it and then got back in it after a second. Tires are going to have to be next on the list.
I plastidipped the front bumper white while I was finishing everything up as well.
Here is a very rough quality video of me playing around the 2nd time it was out. I launched at 1800ish with no boost and as soon as it rolled into power it starts to blow the wheels off pretty good. I let out of it and then got back in it after a second. Tires are going to have to be next on the list.
Last edited by Funkster; 05-07-2014 at 07:50 AM.
#86
Well this weekend didn't go entirely to plan. We loaded the truck on the dyno to tune due to rain in our area. On our first pull the front U-Joint let go and sent caps out from under the truck. The U-Joint didn't break, but the cap came out. We assumed there must have been a clip missing from the U-Joint.
We replaced the U-Joint and put it back on the rollers. At about 4000 RPM on a slight pull to test it started making a light metallic noise. The people underneath the truck said they that it was coming from the transmission. We started the truck and you can hear the noise on start up. It sounds like a metal clicking noise to me, my tuner said he thought it sounded like it was coming from the converter.
The interesting thing is we couldn't get the noise to be louder, faster or sometimes even make any noise with an increase in RPM. I double checked all the converter bolts and spacing on them just in case and everything was fine there. The truck seemed to drive fine, but made the weird noise on startup. So, I went to drive it home. On the way home I rolled into it a bit and heard a bang then knocking. I pulled off and the truck had thrown another U-Joint cap off.
This leads me to wonder if anyone has experienced either of these issues before? I hate to think it was the converter as I probably never made more than 450whp on a Circle D converter. I also wouldn't think it would have damaged the trans, but weirder things than both have happened. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
We replaced the U-Joint and put it back on the rollers. At about 4000 RPM on a slight pull to test it started making a light metallic noise. The people underneath the truck said they that it was coming from the transmission. We started the truck and you can hear the noise on start up. It sounds like a metal clicking noise to me, my tuner said he thought it sounded like it was coming from the converter.
The interesting thing is we couldn't get the noise to be louder, faster or sometimes even make any noise with an increase in RPM. I double checked all the converter bolts and spacing on them just in case and everything was fine there. The truck seemed to drive fine, but made the weird noise on startup. So, I went to drive it home. On the way home I rolled into it a bit and heard a bang then knocking. I pulled off and the truck had thrown another U-Joint cap off.
This leads me to wonder if anyone has experienced either of these issues before? I hate to think it was the converter as I probably never made more than 450whp on a Circle D converter. I also wouldn't think it would have damaged the trans, but weirder things than both have happened. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
#87
Alright, so I disconnected the torque converter and started the truck and got even more noise. Upon closer inspection it looks like now the flexplate is hitting the roller bearing on the starter. I am going to try to shim the starter, but ordered a new flexplate in case as well.
I also am having a new driveshaft built now. 3.5" mild steel with 1350 joints front and rear. I am going to use a conversion on the rear for now, but will eventually change the differential yoke to a true 1350.
So, I will keep you guys updated and with any luck will be up and running again this weekend.
I also am having a new driveshaft built now. 3.5" mild steel with 1350 joints front and rear. I am going to use a conversion on the rear for now, but will eventually change the differential yoke to a true 1350.
So, I will keep you guys updated and with any luck will be up and running again this weekend.
#88
I decided to do away with my pointless AM/FM radio and install an iPhone interface. I also wanted to move my wideband closer to my viewing area while driving so I killed two birds with one stone. I made an ABS plate and used the stock radio mounting tabs on the back.
Ignore the silver marks as they are cutting lines and won't be visible once this is mounted.
Ignore the silver marks as they are cutting lines and won't be visible once this is mounted.
#98
I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but the passenger side manifold is a manifold by Trick Performance that has a flange on the back and a turbo mount on the top front. So exhaust runs from the Driver's behind the engine and joins into the passenger's manifold then forward into the turbo.
#99
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but the passenger side manifold is a manifold by Trick Performance that has a flange on the back and a turbo mount on the top front. So exhaust runs from the Driver's behind the engine and joins into the passenger's manifold then forward into the turbo.