SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Good idea, ok il have to try it tomorrow. Have to go to work. My back pressure isnt 3:1. At 19.5 intake psi I'm at 35 psi back pressure. But that might be enough to open it. Still makes no sense why it won't open now though

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Just got off the phone with the owne,he said it should open no matter what. And he agrees with the equal pressure. Im bringing them the car with it on there tomorrow for them to take a look. Im lost at this point on why it doesnt open on the car.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Let us know what you find out. Id like one of those

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I'd mount a little camera down there and go test it. Are you sure it isn't opening? You could also lengthen the actuating arm to get more torque.

From what I've read, The pressure drop in a pipe goes down exponentially as flow decreases. A small amount of exhaust bypassed will drop the pressure to nothing. You shouldn't need a massive 3" or 4" buttefly valve to get the exh. back pressure down to almost nothing.

I use a 60mm WG, was 130$ and works great mechanically anyway. (no back pressure measurements yet )

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Forcefed, you use the wastegate post turbo like in the dp? Ive thought of that but thought the opening wouldn't be big enough to do the job

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Yes I do, and like stated above, it doesn't take much. Due to packaging it isn't placed in an ideal location. I just had no room to work with. You'd want it on the first or 2nd 90* for best flow.

This is a 4" DP with a 2.5" glass pack. Very quiet at idle and cruise.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Works on the bench... not on the car....
Could be, when it's bolted up, the flange is in a "warp, and the can does not have the power to open it??
Maybe, bolt it up, take the actuator rod off. Is the blade free?
Also, when it's hot, it may aggravate the issue.

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

I will give that a try too. Thanks for all the ideas. I go to sound at 11am. I'm going to get up at 7 and perform all tests mentioned. Also I'm going to tee in a boost gauge right before the actuator just to double check its ok. Should be because i have if off the same line going to the boost controller and that works fine

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Update 5-21-2013 IT WORKS!!

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

Let me first clear one thing up as I think I forgot to mention it and it would explain why 2 things fixed it.

When I originally bought the cutout early last week I hooked up up off the comp housing but it had 2 tees one for the boost controller and one going to the cutout. It didn't work that way. So i hooked a straight line from comp housing directly to cutout, still didn't work.

I brought it to sound performance and they tested it and found that the actuator was way to heavy,started opening at 10psi and fully open at 18. So they swapped it out for one that ones at 1 psi and fully open at 9. I hooked it up the original way with the boost controller in the loop and it never worked.

I stopped there,put my electric one on and created this thread.

This morning I put it back on, and hooked it up to direct boost with no boost controller and it worked. So it was a combo fix, they had the wrong actuator on there originally and this thing needs direct boost no controller hooked in because its probably bleeding it off.

Johnv

So how do you find driving it around with the boost activated cutout ?

95bowtie

How much was the cutout?

tilly

iTrader: (5)

I am going to do an electric one and base it off of TPS. I am using Holley Dominator to control it through one of the inputs on a switched +12 using a comination of the circuits below.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram45.html You obviously need to increase the capacitor to get the desired time. And then to close it
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram49.html

ZNix

iTrader: (1)

This has me thinking.. I have a bunch of stock turbo Buick actuators from my car.. Hmmm..

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

I really like it driving around. Doesn't sounds weird or anything. Now i have me sweet sounding but not good flowmaster whilecrossing,as soon as i get into boost she starts to open. I tried the trans brake too,it spools just as fast.

$450 plus your forced to buy their 3 bolt flange. They machine the holes ever so slightly different then the standard ones. Its $30 bucks. I was not happy with the price but for my setup i really needed it